Oil & Fuel B7100HST fuel filter problem

Anonymous Poster · Jun 15, 2001

Several weeks ago my B7100HST (approximately 100 hours) began losing power and after diagnosing the situation, I determined that it was the fuel filter. I changed it out and, following the directions in the (flimsy) manual, proceeded to bleed the lines, etc. In the process, I tightened one of the bleeding screws too tight and it broke off. Now, after buying new screws (bolts), how do I get the broken one out? Also, I can't get it to start again. Is there something that I am overlooking or am I just dumb? Any assistance will be appreciated.

allmobile · Jun 15, 2001

Are you talking about the bleeder screws on the filter housing? If you are, the easiest solution is buying a new housing. I'm assuming your dealer won't stock that, since they rarely get replaced. In that case you will have to use some form bolt remover like an ez-out or something similar. As far as not starting you still have air in the system. I have never used the bleeder screws on the housing to bleed the system. I just leave the bowl loose and open the petcock then tighten the bowl after alll the air is out. Then I loosen the bleeder screw at the injection pump. Since you have tryed to start the tractor with with air in the system you will probably need to loosen the injector lines at the injectors and crank the engine until all the air is out of the lines.

Brian

Hawgee · Jun 15, 2001

Won't start could be air still in line. On an older Perkins, I could let er start on a sputter and "bleed" on the fly. Couple of oz. splash on side of COLD engine would be the result.
I prefer the tappered square "easy out" for removing broken bolts. Start as small as possible and go to larger size to relieve tension against the threads.
Nothing dumb about it. You will after graduation, be a member of the "Get a Smaller Wrench Next Time" club. Welcome aboard. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
Come back if you need details.

"What is a weed? A plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered."
Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882)

StoneHeartFarm · Jun 15, 2001

Hawgee is right, use the square easy outs, but get good ones. (A couple of extra bucks on a good tool you can use again is probably cheaper than a new housing.) I've never broken a square easy out, but I've twisted quite a few of them. The spiral jobs are always breaking.

SHF

Anonymous Poster · Jun 15, 2001

Thanks for the information. One more question...when does one know when all of the air is out of the system?

Anonymous Poster · Jun 15, 2001

Thanks. I like your idea.

boatman · Jun 15, 2001

one of my favorite tricks is a reverseing drill bit. snap on sells them. when the bit bites it will remove the broken bleeder. there is nothing worse than a broken easy-out.

Hawgee · Jun 15, 2001

...when does one know when all of the air is out of the system?

It will run when the air is gone. Air compresses. Don't look for it to flow in this case. If a bubble is not large enough to let the high or low pressure diesel past, "air lock". It will be found at a high point in the system. You are gonna get wet. I go for the last connection at the injectors if you've really sucked a lot of air. With lines open, you must provide pressure or turn engine over. I never did ask if this was a self primer, now did I.
As to the statement that reads, "I don't know of anything that is worse than a broken easy out". I can think of very expensive fuel bodys, pump bodys, busted knuckles and elbows. I renew my "Smaller Wrench Club" card from time to time myself. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

"What is a weed? A plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered."
Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882)