B7800 front chain clearance

[Franko]

I tried to put chains on the front R4 tires on my B7800 and found that there is not enough clearance between the tie rod joints and the wheel. Has anyone solved this problem? I read something about reversing the wheels, but I am not sure what that involves.

I don't plan to use front chains exclusively as I have read many warnings here, but I want to be able to do it if all else fails and I am totally stuck. This IS one of those winters after all! I am also working on getting rear chains, which is my main focus, but I have not found any yet.

Thanks for any advice on this....

Frank

 

[captin_insano]

Tirechain.com. They're out of johnstown pa and list the 12.4x16 chains for a good price. Problem I ran into with rear chains is they chewed up my fenders. I have a big 3/8th twist chain though, a smaller chain may clear better. I wouldnt flip the front wheels, just consider front chains as not an option. Its not worth the extra risk of damaging the front axle. The wider track width will put more stress on the bearings and axle itself. It creates more "scrub radius" too which isnt to good for your steering. Not to mention if you have the 54" bucket the tires are out wider than the bucket which wouldnt be any fun when pushing snow.

edit* I see you blow snow. Still, get the rear chains if you feel you need em.

 

[Franko]

My order from Tirechains.com was cancelled because they are out of stock for the season. I am trolling Ebay to see if I can find some semi chains, since they seem about the same dimensions as my rear tires, but I have not had much luck for the last two weeks, other than getting those front chains.

Unless I am missing something, my rear fenders seem to have a pretty big clearance for chains. Do you have a B7800? Maybe I better take another look.

Now we have another 12-24 inches coming starting tomorrow. I think I will just try to keep ahead of it with the rear plow. That works well for 6 inches and under if I don't let it ice up and take real care on the steep sections. If I can avoid using the blower, I can probably get by without the chains. If I have to use the blower, it does not get down all the way to the gravel and after a couple of runs, the snow packs down to ice and then I am sliding backwards. I don't like that feeling!

I appreciate your thoughts though!

Frank

 

[ptrotter]

I have a B7800 and use rear chains without a problem. I got my chains from tirechains.com but I don't remember which ones I have. They just fit without hitting the fenders if I make sure to snug them up tight and put spring tensioners on them. I have a front blower and front blade and I wouldn't give up the chains for anything. I have never gotten stuck and I have a 600 ft. driveway to plow. I'm thinking of trying front chains as I sometimes lose steering on slippery spots.

 

[Earl Ohl]

I tried to put chains on the front R4 tires on my B7800 and found that there is not enough clearance between the tie rod joints and the wheel. Has anyone solved this problem? I read something about reversing the wheels, but I am not sure what that involves.

I don't plan to use front chains exclusively as I have read many warnings here, but I want to be able to do it if all else fails and I am totally stuck. This IS one of those winters after all! I am also working on getting rear chains, which is my main focus, but I have not found any yet.

Thanks for any advice on this....

Frank

Just a thought, call Service Tire Truck Center in Bethlehem, Pa. Sorry, I don't have the number handy. They're in the book though. They should be able to hook you up.

 

[Franko]

I have a B7800 and use rear chains without a problem. ... I have never gotten stuck and I have a 600 ft. driveway to plow. I'm thinking of trying front chains as I sometimes lose steering on slippery spots.

If you figure out a way to get the front chains on without them catching on that steering rod joint, please share with us!

Frank

 

[captin_insano]

I have an 07 7800 with r4's. the chains hit on the inside of the fenders, just look for the tighest spot in there and thats where mine hit. Like i said though, I had a big chain on it and it was a twist chain too. I had tensioners on, even took the tires off, flattened them, made the chains as tight as possible, put on the tensioners and even tried some ratchet straps on the back but there just wasnt enough room, they still hit. I'm going to try to get a smaller chain for it.

See if tirechain.com has a truck/suv chain. They list a 37x13 and 36x12.50. Either of these "might" work. Or you can make your own if you dont mind wasting some time on it. 35' of 1/4" chain was $24 the last time I was at harbor freight.

 

[captin_insano]

Heres a link to a truck/suv 37x12.50 chain in 5.5mm. I'd check to see if they have it. I think the 12.4/16 they sell is 3/8ths so maybe they have some of the 5.5mm stuff left. I dont know for sure what size mine are, I was thinking 3/8ths but it might even be 7/16ths. They are big and heavy, every other link has a cross chain and I bet they weigh about 150lbs each. They were overkill, especially since i cant use them. I'll probably try these truck chains for next winter.

37-12.50-16 Tire Chains

 

[Franko]

Hmm, the 5.5 look to be about a quarter inch on my ruler, which may work. How can you tell if the 37-12.5-16 chains are the right width and length though? I need something about 17-18 inches wide and 112 inches long to fit. I can't find a chart that shows tire width and circumferences in inches for different tire sizes.
Frank

 

[Franko]

I have an 07 7800 with r4's. the chains hit on the inside of the fenders, just look for the tighest spot in there and thats where mine hit. Like i said though, I had a big chain on it and it was a twist chain too. I had tensioners on, even took the tires off, flattened them, made the chains as tight as possible, put on the tensioners and even tried some ratchet straps on the back but there just wasnt enough room, they still hit. I'm going to try to get a smaller chain for it.

If someone is actually using chains on their B7800 R4 rear tires and not chewing up their fenders, please let us know what you are using. The snow is still coming down out there in mid eastern PA, btw!

Thanks much!

Frank

 

[jdgreg]

I'm not familar with the 'Bota, but I had similar problem with front chains on my JD 4210. I simply flipped the tires around, they stayed on the same side, just turn them around. This put the tire tread going in the wrong direction, but with the chains on that doesnt matter. It does make the front stance a little wider, but that seems to add stability. I've done this for several winters with no ill effects, and I have a FEL snow blade on mine. Hope this helps some. Good luck to you guys and gals in this round of storms.

 

[Franko]

My order from Tirechains.com was cancelled because they are out of stock for the season. I am trolling Ebay to see if I can find some semi chains, since they seem about the same dimensions as my rear tires, but I have not had much luck for the last two weeks, other than getting those front chains.

Frank

I got through by phone to TireChains.com and they were able to make up some chains that would work, even though they are out of stock. They are going to ship them out and they should arrive by tomorrow. They came through for me!

Frank

 

[captin_insano]

Good to hear. What size chain did you get?

 

[Franko]

I ordered 'truck' chains, 5/16 to try to avoid any clearance problems. The are called '2271 truck chains' on the order.

Frank

 

[captin_insano]

Sounds good. let us know how they fit and how they work.

 

[Leejohn]

This is what I done in 2008. I did it because of the mud builting up and taking all the paint off of the inside of the wheel.



For the guys that have no clearance with the R4 tires. You might want to do this, its real easy and saves $$$ too.
I was going to make some spacers but after looking at the flange of the front hub I didn't think it could handle the longer studs. The flange is right around 1/4" and sure wouldn't want to brake the hub. Tried turning the wheels around by switching from side to side, I didn't like that to much because it made my steering seem loose.
What I ended up doing was to grind the inside of wheel out. Moved it in 1 1/4" and rewelded. The 1 1/4" put the inside bolt flange in the center of the tire. There is about 1 1/2" clearance between the tire and the steering bracket. Worked out real good!!

 

[captin_insano]

I wouldnt suggest it or the flip and heres why. I dont know the exact measurements but lets say its 20" from center of tire to center of tire. If you increase this to 23" you made a 15% change in the width. While 3 inches dont sound like much it can greatly increase the stress on your axle and its components. if the axle is rated to hold say 1000lbs and that how much weight your loader can put on it, you just increased the weight related stress on the axle by at least 15%. So that 1000 lbs can become alot heavier. I say at least 15% because the percentage will change much greater if you look just at the hub/portal drop area. If its 5 inches from the bevel gear, portal and bolts/whatever on the front axle and you increase that distance by 3 inches (rather 1.5" each side) you increase the weight related stresses it sees on those components by 30%. I dont know about you all but I wouldnt want to do that to my tractor. I expect it to lift and handle loads for a long time so I see no good reason to do this to it. If you think its worth it after you consider this by all means have at it but I think its import to know what its doing. Theres also the scrub radius thing I mentioned earlier with the steering