B8200HST-D, high temperature whistle?

Egon · Apr 17, 2014

Jwedd said:
No, that is a different system.

John

Okay. Sorry for being a pain.

varmint · Apr 17, 2014

The temp sensor fitting should go where you think it will- I had installed a mech. temp. gauge on my B8200 around 2003 or so, and I remember the kit ($15 for voltmeter, mech. temp. and mech. oil pressure) had whatever parts I needed to just plumb it in- I recall it was metric, but can't tell you much more than that. I also don't think an affordable pull solenoid will have enough grunt to pull the fuel shutoff- at least mine took some effort. That's why I thought a low pressure electric solenoid to shut off the fuel flow would be the ticket.

Jwedd · Apr 17, 2014

varmint said:
The temp sensor fitting should go where you think it will- I had installed a mech. temp. gauge on my B8200 around 2003 or so, and I remember the kit ($15 for voltmeter, mech. temp. and mech. oil pressure) had whatever parts I needed to just plumb it in- I recall it was metric, but can't tell you much more than that. I also don't think an affordable pull solenoid will have enough grunt to pull the fuel shutoff- at least mine took some effort. That's why I thought a low pressure electric solenoid to shut off the fuel flow would be the ticket.

I agree with the solenoid valve idea, but regular needle valve solenoids are not likely to work here (plugging, incompatible with fuel, etc.). The little Murphy valve that is over $100 isn't a standard needle type, it's a rotating ball valve made just for fuel.

I looked at the shut off cable arm to see if a shorter throw can be repositioned closer to the hub, but I think the experimentation with low cost pull solenoids is going to be unknown adventure. I'd rather put out $100 on something that for sure will work.

So, I have my Murphy temp gauge coming; today, I ordered a 14 gallon fuel cylinder, spun aluminum, 10" x 36". It will mount right on the front fender (this 8200 has a hefty 1/4" plate fender, and a 3/8" steel plate bumper). I stood on it today, gave it 230 lbs, bounced around a bit, and all that happened was that the front tire compressed a bit

) The fuel cylinder will sit nicely on top of the fender. The 10" cylinder height will also fit between the factory fuel tank's 12" from filler to bottom of tank, so no problems with overtopping and/or unused capacity.

Today I hooked the 8200 up to the well. It grunted a bit, like, what is that on my rear end :laughing: I could only run it up to just over 2000 rpm (600 rpm PTO) before it stopped going. The well pump at that rpm only pulls 6 hp; figure about 2-3 hp tops lost in the driveshaft and gear head, and this little 0.9 liter engine is barely able to make 9-10 hp PTO at 2000. Kubota might be saying 16 PTO hp at 2600 rpm, but I think that is being very generous. I suspect the engine needs to run up to about 2200 before it gets into its power band. After 20 mins, nothing felt overly hot.

More work to do on getting it ready.

John

murky · Apr 18, 2014

The HST model only quotes 14 HP at PTO. The gear tractor does 16.

Jwedd · Apr 18, 2014

murky said:
The HST model only quotes 14 HP at PTO. The gear tractor does 16.

Thanks, I wasn't sure about the rear PTO, I was thinking it was "gear" since the clutch is needed to engage it. I thought the mid-mount PTO might be the hydraulic that they reference.

So, essentially, everything connected to the rear of the engine on the HST models goes through a hydraulic pump or torque converter type system first?

John

murky · Apr 18, 2014

Jwedd said:
...So, essentially, everything connected to the rear of the engine on the HST models goes through a hydraulic pump or torque converter type system first?

John

That's how I interpret the spec.

Jwedd · Apr 18, 2014

murky said:
That's how I interpret the spec.

well, it is what it is...

Couple comments, it's interesting how the HST pump can "kill" the engine. That won't happen ever with an automatic car tranny. Secondly, there is a robust cooler system for the HST on my 62141 SN (which doesn't show at all in the parts book). I'll be switching to Kubota SUDT2 shortly, and changing all the filters/oils. Maybe adding a cetane booster to the diesel as well....I'd like to see a couple more hp and another 100 rpm out the back (2200 rpm would be super). But I think I'm being overly optmistic.

John

varmint · Apr 18, 2014

Interesting... my 8200 was a gear tractor, and the PTO did some impressive work driving a post hole auger into hard ground and tree roots, without seeming to labor. I just got my first HST tractor, so I am learning about that system and what to expect. I have seen ball solenoid valves, for reasonable prices, and I would think a 1/4" valve would be fine for your fuel shut-off. Post a photo when you get it all sorted out?

varmint · Apr 18, 2014

Since I mentioned cheap solenoid valves, I thought I'd better take a look... 3 minutes found this one, $53, and I'll bet you can find even cheaper deals. 8262H022 12/DC Asco Solenoid Valve 2-Way NC 1/4 | ASCO 2-Way Solenoid Valves 1/4 NPT - 12v DC | Valworx '®'
I remember almost buying one for a project that was going to cost me $30 something... 12V, of course.