Back Blade Offset Function - Do You Use It?

[MtnViewRanch]

Gearmore also makes sturdy blades. Mine is a GB85 that have pins fore and aft for blade adjustment.

http://www.gearmore.com/Intermediate/Cat_Pg8.pdf

Getting the blade way out to one side tends to want to spin the tractor so there needs to be plenty of weight on the front tires to keep them going in the right direction.

You aren't kidding there. My tractor weighs 12k+ and with that blade over all the way you had best not even try to be digging anything solid. but it works great for loose material and cleaning out ditches. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: I have found that for me anyway, with 2 feet or less of boom offset there is not any real problem to deal with.

 

[dcyrilc]

Thanks, we still add a few things here and there whenever I think of something else that might be helpful for someone to know before ordering. I only have up tractors that I have actually measured first hand or have made from the diagrams that have been filled out and have worked out fine for the customer. The list will be continually growing. (I hope)

So when are you going to get a set? You need them to get the best performance of your rear blade.

I keep thinking about it, but I need to get rear remotes first.:laughing:

So far other things keep taking priority over rear hydraulics. Eventually though that will make it to the top of the list.

 

[davygp38]

Thanks, we still add a few things here and there whenever I think of something else that might be helpful for someone to know before ordering. I only have up tractors that I have actually measured first hand or have made from the diagrams that have been filled out and have worked out fine for the customer. The list will be continually growing. (I hope)

So when are you going to get a set? You need them to get the best performance of your rear blade.

Brian: I have a Kubota L 4400, would the power beyond remote be enough to run both a top link, and a side link? Would like to be a ble to adjust the 7' box scraper.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian: I have a Kubota L 4400, would the power beyond remote be enough to run both a top link, and a side link? Would like to be a ble to adjust the 7' box scraper.

I believe that you should have all of your hydraulic power available through that remote. When everything is set up properly, you should have the same power available at all valves. So yes it should be fine.

 

[allen in texas]

Yes I have an offsetting blade. Yes I use it. Yes it's very handy yes it will try to turn the tractor if I get too aggressive.

You'll find all kinds of uses for the offset. I don't have snow so I can't relate to that but one of the things I like about mine is that I can get close to a building when scraping and still have the tractor away from the building so I have wiggle room and I can see what I'm doing better.

Mine is old and beat up but it still works.

 

[Keuka]

Thanks for the information.

 

[jimgerken]

Keuka: What are the tasks you wish to accomplish with the blade? I ask because I don't have a blade, but own many other choices for rear implements and I don't feel I am missing anything by not owning a blade. It is possible that the jobs you are thinking about would be better done with a box blade, a rake, or something else.

For instance, I use my rake (which has offset) to reshape and rough shape the gravel roads and driveways (always fine finish with a single drage section behind the garden tractor for the ultimate finish). And the rake is the premium tool of choice in the woods for trail prep and maintenance. Offset is a real plus here, as sometimes you wish to rake the rocks off the trail and have them actually fall all the way off the trail edge. When angling the rake (or blade) to move the material off to one side, you naturally loose effective width. Driving really close to the edge of the trail is not wise sometimes, as there are 15 foot drop-offs on some of our trails. Offset to the rescue.
A blade would work for the gravel I guess. But in the woods a blade can be frustrating. You only travel a few feet and hit a root that will not move. A rake allows some compliance to flex over these immovable objects. Also, a rake can sort, by directing the rocks off to the side but dropping a fair amount of dirt right thru the tines.
A boxblade with scarifiers is the tool of my choice for heavy first pass ripping and digging, like for new building site construction. Pulling small (under 6") stumps works real cool with one boxblade scarifier and hyd top cylinder to roll the boxblade over backward after hooking the stump. It sort of prys it out. The boxblade also works well as a loader counterweight because it is concentrated weight, in both length and width. A rear blade will not generally weigh as much, and will hang out sideways more. A bolxblade is heavy enough to break ice ridges when needed in Spring weather. Doubt the blade would be heavy enough.

Food for thougth maybe, Good luck.

 

[JoeL4330]

I have an 8' (fully hydraulic) back blade on my L4330 and use the 30" offset frequently to good advantage ...for ditching and snow removal. And, even though I have wide turfs the 8', even when angled and offset some, will cover the rear wheels.

Someone mentioned that a long blade, when angled, wants to steer the tractor (like a boat tiller/rudder) which is true but can be offset to a degree by keeping some ballast in the FEL. Someone also mentioned that catching an immovable object with the end of the blade can be a serious jolt, which is also true ...if you are going to have hydraulic angle, you should seriously consider putting a cushion valve in that hydraulic circuit (landpride offers one, I have it, and it is worth the investment)

 

[kco]

I have an 8' (fully hydraulic) back blade on my L4330 and use the 30" offset frequently to good advantage ...for ditching and snow removal. And, even though I have wide turfs the 8', even when angled and offset some, will cover the rear wheels.

Someone mentioned that a long blade, when angled, wants to steer the tractor (like a boat tiller/rudder) which is true but can be offset to a degree by keeping some ballast in the FEL. Someone also mentioned that catching an immovable object with the end of the blade can be a serious jolt, which is also true ...if you are going to have hydraulic angle, you should seriously consider putting a cushion valve in that hydraulic circuit (landpride offers one, I have it, and it is worth the investment)

Another method to counteract the "boat rudder" effect is to plow in reverse. If the snowfall is deep I sometimes make 4 passes going forward (2 in each direction on the driveway) to get the snow to mounds at the side. Then reverse the blade and offset it and plow backwards to get the mound into the ditches. This way the force due to the offset counteracts the force due to the blade angle so they tend to cancel each other out. But plowing backward is a real pain in the neck--literally.

More often with a heavy snow I make my four passes to get it in loose mounds at the edges and then make one pass down and up with my walk-behind snowblower to blow it into the field.

I'm getting too old and inflexible for all this and plan to spring for a 3 point pull-type snowblower for next winter--likely an MK Martin SB68 (68").

 

[94BULLITT]

I have a tuffline blade that offsets. It has a ratcheting mechanism about like a chain binder which gives you more adjustment than the ones with the pins. I think you can get a ratchet for the woods blade too. The owners manual for my blade says to only offset if you absolutely have to. I have not had my blade but 2 weeks and have not offset it yet but I imagine it will pull the tractor sideways just like when you angle them a lot. Also stay away from the woods rb series. Your tractor would tear up one of those blades.