Back Blade Offset Function - Do You Use It?

[JoeL4330]

Landpride RBT35 series, 8ft. ...the pic says it all

 

[JoeL4330]

sorry, you also asked for info about roller "tailwheel" on box grader ...
this link will take you there:
Roller Option
and, here is a pic from their site ...I will try and get some pix from my setup, but as you can see, the hydraulic cylinder extends the roller to effectively adjust the cutting height ...and, when fully extended, puts all the (considerable) weight of the implement on the roller for compaction. I would say, though that my 8' version (needed to cover my rears) with the roller is a beast and right at the limit of what my tractor can handle.

Incidentally, on the landpride blade, above, I have the toplink set up with a swinging toplink (HF) to permit the blade to respond to the "commands" of the tail wheel more easily.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Landpride RBT35 series, 8ft. ...the pic says it all

Someday I would like to get an RBT3584 for my smaller tractor. I am a cheap skate though and will stay with the skid shoes like I have on my RBT45108 instead of the tail wheel.

Have you found that you use both the "TnT" tilt along with the blade tilt?

 

[JoeL4330]

do I use the two tilts (3ph and blade tilt) together? ...only for serious ditching

 

[djradz]

My tractor is a Kubota L35, Loader/Backhoe. I don't have any rear remotes or attchments other than the loader & hoe. I have about 800 feet of crushed stone drives and a few parking areas. I'm also thinking of snow removal as my walk behind blower is getting old. I live in the Finger Lakes region of New York and we do get a few good snow storms each season.

I have to do some excavating and grading for a 3 to 4 bay storage barn. I have the drives to maintain, fine grade and touch up the stone each spring. I'm thinking seriously of adding a three spool rear hydraulic remote system. I'm thinking a back blade that offsets and a high quality york type rake.

I considered a box blade and a drag type grader box. I'm just not real sure what would work the best on the touch up work on the drives. I'm thinking a rear blade would do the snow removal and maybe some fine grade if I had hydraulic controls. The york rake would rake the stone and dress off the drives. I've also read a few posts on here about using a york rake for snow removal.

One problem that's a real pain is weeds in the drives and parking areas. I own a summer camping area and the drives look great untill the @#$%^& weeds start again. I Round Up 2 to 3 time a year but they just come back after a few weeks. Round Up advertises that it kills down to the roots and thats seems to be true. It doesn't kill the roots. I'm thinking a back blade and york rake would break up a destroy the root system when the ground is soft, after the spring thaw. The rake would also work up the stone and hopefully bring it back to the surface.

I'd like to have all the various toys but cost and storage is a concearn. I'm a firm believer in buying quality tools. They always pay for themselves and I'd rather do with out untill I can buy something that will last. I'm probably not much different than everone else on here.

I think the landscape rake would work well for the work you describe, but I'd highly recommend the use of gage wheels on your rake. These will help you to not end up digging too deep in areas and keep you from having to make constant adjustment of the 3-pt as you go along.

Regarding your weeds; You should probably add a pre-emergent herbicide to your Roundup that will remain in the soil. If you select the right product, you should not have to do it again unless you disturb the surface substantially. I suspect you really are killing the roots, but every time you grade, you mix in more weed and grass seed and give these a nice opportunity to sprout and grow.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Trenching between gate posts.

 

[allen in texas]

I think the landscape rake would work well for the work you describe, but I'd highly recommend the use of gage wheels on your rake. These will help you to not end up digging too deep in areas and keep you from having to make constant adjustment of the 3-pt as you go along.

Regarding your weeds; You should probably add a pre-emergent herbicide to your Roundup that will remain in the soil. If you select the right product, you should not have to do it again unless you disturb the surface substantially. I suspect you really are killing the roots, but every time you grade, you mix in more weed and grass seed and give these a nice opportunity to sprout and grow.

That's what I was going to say, about the weeds I mean.
Round up kills the plant all the way to the roots. Doesn't kill seeds. Weeds come back from seed mostly.
Next time you grade, spray a pre-emergent first and your grading will incorporate the chemical into the soil. It will kill seed for about 3 months.
Have you considered a soil sterilant? The right kind applied properly can keep the ground free of ALL vegetation for up to three years.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Maybe I missed it, but one thing not mentioned that the swing is also good for is allows you to turn the 7foot + blade around without unhooking> You can swing to far position, turn the blade to center then swing to the other side to finish the turn. It gives you enough room to clear the wheels. You man need to shorten the 3 arm to have it tilted enough to clear the lift arms but it works at least it did on a big #1500 Rhino blade we had once.