Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth

   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth #11  
It took me a minute to figure the project out. But I got it after viewing all the photos and reading your descriptions. Looks like this will be a fine implement for the BH. I assume the pin spacing is the same as that of the BH bucket.
BTW where did you get those Pins with the grease zirks? are they 1" dia. Is the steel hot or cold rolled?
The welds look professional what type of welder and rod did you use. Sorry for the 30 questions but this looks like an interesting project I want to copy for myself.
I look forward to seeing the last photo with it painted and mounted on the BH.
 
   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth #12  
I vote for a tooth - Fabco # 23 Pin on.
You've done a lot of work on this. Hate to see it wear out on the end. Of course after seeing your welding you would not have a problem building it back up after wearing it down.

A tooth would work and look good.
 
   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth
  • Thread Starter
#13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I assume the pin spacing is the same as that of the BH bucket.
)</font>
It's pretty close - as close as I could make it (probably within a 1/32 or 1/64 of an inch) I was a little concerned about being able to get the dimension correct before I started - until I examined the backhoe itself - the linkage is such that I believe I could be off a good bit and it probably wouldn't matter a whole lot.


</font><font color="blue" class="small">( BTW where did you get those Pins with the grease zirks? )</font>
They came with the backhoe - they are the standard pins for a Kubota BL4690B backhoe.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( are they 1" dia. )</font>
Yes, basically - I'd have to measure them again but I think they might be slightly undersized - say 0.996 or something.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is the steel hot or cold rolled? )</font>
I think they are hardened, possibly forged.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The welds look professional what type of welder and rod did you use. )</font>
Thank you very much. A Lincoln PowerMIG 215, using .035 ER70S-6 mig wire (ProStar brand I think) and C25 gas.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sorry for the 30 questions but this looks like an interesting project I want to copy for myself. )</font>
No problem at all - happy to share.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I look forward to seeing the last photo with it painted and mounted on the BH. )</font>
It will be a while before you see any painted photos of it /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have a logsplitter, landscpae rake, and dump wagon I'm building and I will probably try to gang the paint jobs all together - plus the weather has to warm up a bit (Trying to shoot paint in the shed with the woodburner going probably wouldn't be real wise /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif)

I will put it on the 'hoe and test it out shortly though if the weather stays dry.

Attached is a photo of the unit welded up. Still have a couple more beads to run and it will be done.
 

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   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth
  • Thread Starter
#14  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I vote for a tooth )</font>
Well, due to overwhelming number of votes for a tooth (yours and mine) a tooth it is.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Fabco # 23 Pin on )</font>
Yeah, I was looking to go pin-on initially - I looked thru some of the PDF's of Fabco's catalog and all the pin-on types that I was seeing looked a little large, in terms of the shank they were designed to fit over. The 2A crimp-on's seemed like they would be a perfect fit. I ran down to the local Kubota/New Holland dealer - they had a bunch of different types and sizes, including the 2A - which seemed like it would fit the best so that's what I went with. I ended up tacking it on after talking to the guy at the parts counter, who basically said that that's what alot of people do, to get the crimp-on style teeth to stay on.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Of course after seeing your welding you would not have a problem building it back up after wearing it down. )</font>
Thanks again - yeah I probably could build it back up - but I'm with you - I'd rather not.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( A tooth would work and look good. )</font>
I agree. Think it should work just dandy. The suns out here right now and I'm itching to go try it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Last one for now, until I get some actions shots or it gets painted.
 

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   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth #16  
Nice workmanship. Really professional.
 
   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth #17  
A belated vote for a pin on. I had to work and just got to see this! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif VERY nice work. I want to hear how well it does you jobs. Thanks for this interesting post. John
 
   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Jerry/John,

Thanks guys.

For the moment, the crimp-on tooth I welded on seems to be holding up. The edge of the crimp-on tooth and the edge of the knife are both flat and about 1/8" in width - I think I'm going to take the grinder to both of them and put a sharp edge on - might help in slicin' and dicin'.

The crimp-on tooth works pretty well for splitting up large roots (4" or larger), since my 'hoe doesn't have enough power to just bust through them. Attached is an image of 5" Hawthorn stump - this is the first one tried. It had a lot of smaller roots and it was close to a good-sized maple (behind the dipperstick in the image) - so I was cutting through the roots of both.
 

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   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth
  • Thread Starter
#19  
A shot from the other side.
 

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   / Backhoe Frost Point/Ripper Tooth
  • Thread Starter
#20  
This is image of the tooth fully uncurled.
 

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