Backhoe installation

[goldenwings]

I have a 2520 w/ MMM and a BH. I have an older 2520 with the older mechanical lift as well. In order to switch from mowing, to digging the lift linkage and MMM must be removed.

This process realistically takes about 10-15 minutes to completely swap over (after youve done it a few times). The first couple times, try not and get frustrated when it takes you 20-30 minutes. Also try and keep the BH on as level of ground as possible for when you install/uninstall it. The only tools I require to get the BH on and off are a hammer to pull/tap on front pins and a rag to wipe the grease off your hands after pulling the rear pins that hold the 3 point linkage. Other than that, it's just a little bit of maneuvering to get things lined up.

PS. you may want to snap a quick photo of the way the linkage goes back onto the rear pins "below" the axle, it just helps to have a quick reference which piece to slide on first.

 

[Rob-D]

I've heard some people use a rear finish mower instead of the mid mount. May save some time swapping over to the hoe

Cheers
Byron

That's not a bad idea but my thinking is that if you put a little more money into it you can get a dedicated mower that is designed for mowing only and be better off. After all a rear finishing mower will set you back around $2500.00 or so for a decent one. Put in another grand or 1500 bucks and you can get a fairly good dedicated mower. I went for a ztrac the year after I bought my tractor so it buffered my bill and I just get on and mow....really fast because that's what it's designed for.

It's like those table saws that do several tasks. Looks good until you see that you're all set up and in the middle of ripping boards when you need to drill holes. Sure you can do it but I personally don't want to and I'll bet I'm not alone.

Compact tractors are great and with the Imatch you can go from one tool to the next relatively easily but mowing is a different story. Talk to the guys around here, most go to dedicated machines if they can afford to. The 62D deck for my 2320 was around $2400.00 and when it was on there wasn't much else I could do. It got so that I dreaded using it. That's real life not looking at a brochure dreaming about what you'll do with your new machine.

Rob

 

[smalltown]

I thought I understod for a minute. Rob-d you say I must also remove the backhoe subframe also to be able to reinstall the mower deck ans associated hardware.

goldenwngs are you saying you don't remove the subframe?

I sounds like the backhoe and then the subframe must be completly removed to start reinstalling the mower hardware then the mower.

That sounds like a long (hours process).

 

[Rob-D]

I thought I understod for a minute. Rob-d you say I must also remove the backhoe subframe also to be able to reinstall the mower deck ans associated hardware.

goldenwngs are you saying you don't remove the subframe?

I sounds like the backhoe and then the subframe must be completly removed to start reinstalling the mower hardware then the mower.

That sounds like a long (hours process).

The BH sub frame is permanently bolted to the BH. They come of as one piece, maybe this is where you're getting confused.

Realistically I'd say it took about 20 to 25 minutes to go from the BH to the MMM. Personally it wasn't something I wanted to do every time I mowed. To each his own. Besides I had the hydro lift for the MMM and as anyone around here will tell you it sucks! Whenever you're mowing in the top position it slowly drops down. Go test ride a ztrac and then tell me which you'd rather do your mowing with.

Rob

 

[goldenwings]

I thought I understod for a minute. Rob-d you say I must also remove the backhoe subframe also to be able to reinstall the mower deck ans associated hardware.

goldenwngs are you saying you don't remove the subframe?

I sounds like the backhoe and then the subframe must be completly removed to start reinstalling the mower hardware then the mower.

That sounds like a long (hours process).

The BH/Subframe are bolted together "permanently" It could be taken apart to mount a diff. subframe to put onto a different model tractor, but the BH and subframe arent meant to come apart regularly. So when i remove the BH the subframe is coming off with it.

 

[goldenwings]

That's not a bad idea but my thinking is that if you put a little more money into it you can get a dedicated mower that is designed for mowing only and be better off. After all a rear finishing mower will set you back around $2500.00 or so for a decent one. Put in another grand or 1500 bucks and you can get a fairly good dedicated mower. I went for a ztrac the year after I bought my tractor so it buffered my bill and I just get on and mow....really fast because that's what it's designed for.

It's like those table saws that do several tasks. Looks good until you see that you're all set up and in the middle of ripping boards when you need to drill holes. Sure you can do it but I personally don't want to and I'll bet I'm not alone.

Compact tractors are great and with the Imatch you can go from one tool to the next relatively easily but mowing is a different story. Talk to the guys around here, most go to dedicated machines if they can afford to. The 62D deck for my 2320 was around $2400.00 and when it was on there wasn't much else I could do. It got so that I dreaded using it. That's real life not looking at a brochure dreaming about what you'll do with your new machine.

Rob

I agree with this as well, but as long as we can dream, I'd rather have an excavator with far greater breakout force than the little tractor mounted BH's. Even the "mini" excavators have significantly greater digging forces than do any tractor mounted BH's that I've seen/used. Then perhaps a Ferris Zero Turn, and a tractor for the remaining tasks.

 

[Rob-D]

I agree with this as well, but as long as we can dream, I'd rather have an excavator with far greater breakout force than the little tractor mounted BH's. Even the "mini" excavators have significantly greater digging forces than do any tractor mounted BH's that I've seen/used. Then perhaps a Ferris Zero Turn, and a tractor for the remaining tasks.

My 485 hoe wasn't cheap but it does everything I require of it and it slips off with two pins in 5 minutes, in fact I just pulled it off to put on the front work lights. They really got that mounting right. Besides the hoe sits on all winter even with the front blower on. I'll remove it now to till the garden but otherwise it just stays attached.

Don't get me wrong the 46 hoe comes off and goes on without too much trouble and if you don't mind doing it to mow every week than fine. It wasn't for me.

Rob

 

[smalltown]

Yes I am really misunderstanding something important. Sorry to beat a dead horse.

Here is what I think I understand please correct me if in error.

#46 Backhoe basically has two big sections.
1: section that has the boom and seat and outriggers etc.
2: section called the subframe that is installed and bolted to the tractor frame and specific to the model tractor.

At some point section 1 is attached to section 2 and bolted to the tractor.

Normally when the operator wants to remove the backhoe (maybe to use the 3PH) just the section 1 (boom, outriggers seat) can be detached from the tractor (reasonabl amout of time)leaving the subframe section 2 still bolted to the tractor frame.

A problem arrises when you want to install the mower deck hardware as the remaining section 2 subframe blocks the mower deck hardware installation.

To resolve the issue the remaining section 2 backhoe subframe must be removed from the tractor (long period of time). In essence the backhoe and "all" assemblies are removed as if you never had a backhoe on the tractor.

If I have it wrong (wouldn't be the first time ) PM your tel number and I will call you or I can call you with your tel number.

 

[Runner]

"2: section called the subframe that is installed and bolted to the tractor frame and specific to the model tractor."

This is incorrect.

The backhoe comes from the factory in two pieces (three, if you count the bucket, five, if you count the stabilizers). The two main pieces are the subframe and the backhoe assembly itself. It only comes in two pieces for ease of shipping.

Before you do anything else, you bolt the subframe to the rest of the hoe.

To attach the hoe to the tractor, you have to remove the mower deck, all of the attachment brackets (plus the hydraulic lift assembly, if you have that option) and all of the three-point assembly.

Then, to attach the hoe, you back over it with the tractor until the hooks on the subframe slip over the pins on the rear axle. Then, you hook up the hudraulics and use the stabilizers and the dipper stick to adjust the front of the subframe so the holes match up with the brackets (which stay attached to the loader mounts). Put in the pins and you're ready to rock.

This process is a little easier if you have a dolly for your hoe.

You cannot have a MMM and the backhoe on the 2520 at the same time.

I bought my hoe separate from the tractor, but I was glad that I had power beyond installed on the tractor when I bought it. Assembling the hoe and the attaching brackets on the tractor was not hard at all. This process is easier if you have pallet forks to get the hoe off the trailer or truck and to move this stuff around before you get it assembled.

Hope this helps.

 

[Rob-D]

"2: section called the subframe that is installed and bolted to the tractor frame and specific to the model tractor."

This is incorrect.

No, this is wrong.

The sub frame is bolted to the back hoe not the tractor! The sub frame has no bolts or wrenches needed to hook it to the 2x20 tractors.

To remove the BH you remove only pins and then move the tractor forward leaving the BH and sub frame (which are premanently bolted together and remain as one unit) behind. (pictures 1 & 3)