Backhoe backhoe mods

[schmism]

Ive been looking for a 3pt backhoe on CL for over a year.

Bobcat/skidsteer versions are a dime a dozzen, but finding a decent 3pt one has proved to be a difficult thing.

recently there has been one that came up for a good price and its not far from me.

but its an older HEAVY DUTY version that came off the back of a larger trencher.

so it has this HUGE 8/ blade as the base, no outrigers. to (largeish) cylinders drive the updown of it.

im consider buying it, removing the blade, keeping the cylinders and useing them for more standard outriggers. In addtion i think it would work best on a dedicated PTO pump so id add that.

Would you consider this project? What would you pay for the backhoe in its current state and what would you expect to put into the project to make it a more standard 3pt version?

(note it is already setup for 3pt with powerbeyond)

 

[LBrown59]

Ive been looking for a 3pt backhoe on CL for over a year.

Bobcat/skidsteer versions are a dime a dozzen, but 1*finding a decent 3pt one has proved to be a difficult thing.

recently there has been one that came up for a good price and its not far from me.

but its an older HEAVY DUTY version that came off the back of a larger trencher.

so it has this HUGE 8/ blade as the base, no outrigers. to (largeish) cylinders drive the updown of it.

im consider buying it, removing the blade, keeping the cylinders and useing them for more standard outriggers. In addtion i think it would work best on a dedicated PTO pump so id add that.

Would you consider this project? What would you pay for the backhoe in its current state and what would you expect to put into the project to make it a more standard 3pt version?

(note it is already setup for 3pt with powerbeyond)

* A 3 point BH is a bad idea is why.

 

[KennyV]

Bobcat/skidsteer versions are a dime a dozzen, but finding a decent 3pt one has proved to be a difficult thing.

3 point is NOT a good idea... but if you are finding "Bobcat/skidsteer versions are a dime a dozzen," it will be WAY easier to convert one of those than the one you are considering.... KennyV.

 

[schmism]

3 point is NOT a good idea...

i dont know why you 2 have said that. there are plenty of major manufactures makeing 3pt mounted backhoes. (some with some without subframes)

and while the skids steer version are much more common, they are about the same cost of a new taylor way (or simular) and would still need to be modified which is why i havnt gone that route.

 

[JayC]

3pt backhoes are very rough on a tractor. You can end up splitting your machine in half with a 3pt hoe. You would be much better off with a subframe mounted hoe.

 

[schmism]

even with a subframe, the hoe still connects to the 3pt arms and toplink.

 

[JayC]

Which hoe is that? I've not seen one that connects like that. On most machines, before you can mount the backhoe, you have to take the 3ph components off. On the Kioti CK series, though, I have noticed that you don't have to remove the 3ph components (except toplink, I think) with the factory subframe hoe. Just spread it to the widest point before mounting.

 

[schmism]

all 3pt hoes except the little tinny BX ones connect to the 3pt arms and top link.

they are raised into place and secured often with 2 rigid (non-adjustable) top links.

subframes are usually only sold as an optional feature you can add. Many dont have subframes and you see owners fabing there own to fit there specific tractor.

the above one was one that used to mount to trencher, but has been converted to 3pt hookup and power-beyond.

the issue i have with it is the extra 800lbs of 8' push blade hanging off the bottom and no individual outrigers that i can use to level the machine.

 

[JayC]

The hoes on the BX and B series use a 4 point mounting system. They actually have subframes but they are integrated into the machine.

I know 3pt hoes connect to the 3ph, but I thought you were talking about subframe hoes using the 3ph components above. As I said, the 3ph has to be removed for those. I just really think you would be better served with a subframe hoe than a 3pt one. Your TC33 will thank you. I know people make 3pt hoes, but that don't make them a good idea.

 

[JoelD]

First, a hoe is supper heavy and it sounds as though the one you are looking at was maybe built for a heavier machine than yours. May make your machine front light.

Second, I'm thinking there are variations on the three point theme. The BX 24 for example is not in my opinion a three point, it's a frame mount hoe on a four point frame mount bracket, the the sub frame is tied into the loader frame I'd expect (I've not studied them, but never heard of one breaking).

A three point, hooked to the lift arms and then top link are tied only into the rear of the machine, therefore, huge forces at the center of the machine with the force of the hoe on one end and the weight of the loader and motor on the other, therefore, liklihood of damage is increased, broken three point parts, broken bell housing, etc.

My machine has the backhoe frame tied directly into the loader frame, therefore the forces are spread entirely accross the skeleton of the machine between the backhoe frame and loader frame. I would think, as long as I keep all bolts tight, it would be tough to damage my tractor's frame and components.

I modified a backhoe for my old Kubota, I copied the factory mount setup wich tied the backhoe into the loader frame, again, better distributing the forces throughout the length of the machine and not any one center point of the tractor's frame.

Personally, I'd not mount anything to a tractor without a skeleton (backhoe frame tied to loader frame).

Good luck either way.

Joel

 

[TORQUIN]

I can say with certainty that the larger Kubota hoes also attach with a sub-frame, as I have a BH90 on my L3830 and it has a massive subframe under the tractor to support it. Everyone says you are supposed to remove the 3 pt lift arms to install it, but it seems more like CYA to me, as I can just spread them out, and if I have them at the correct level, they will just barely clear the hoe's frame. I take the top link and thread it between the ROPS and the toolbox and let it ride there, so when I go out on a job needing the BH and something else, like the grader box, I have all of my 3 pt components readily available.

Chris

 

[KennyV]

i dont know why you 2 have said that. there are plenty of major manufactures makeing 3pt mounted backhoes. (some with some without subframes)

and while the skids steer version are much more common, they are about the same cost of a new taylor way (or simular) and would still need to be modified which is why i havnt gone that route.

The only reason i suggested getting the skid steer is because you said " Bobcat/skidsteer versions are a dime a dozzen," I have not ever seen that but if you are finding them that cheap. There will be WAY less modification to one of those than the one you are considering.
If you read about 3pt hoes you will soon see why it is a bad idea AND why you do not find many of them... A subframe is not a 3pt.
Like JayC said..."I know people make 3pt hoes, but that don't make them a good idea."

 

[dfkrug]

subframes are usually only sold as an optional feature you can add. Many dont have subframes and you see owners fabing there own to fit there specific tractor.

I am not aware of ANY factory-built subframes for backhoe attachments
that utilize part of the 3-pt system. Indeed, they may require the complete
removal of the 3-pt arms, lift links, stay chains and toplink.

Woods probably offers more factory subframes than anyone, and they also
offer the brackets for some of their hoes that allows them to be mounted
on a Cat 1 3-pt. Usually the buyer buys the 3-pt brackets OR one of their
many subframes. (The TC33 is supported, BTW.)

Even if the factory subframe is one of the older designs where an enhanced
toplink it used as part of the subframe, it is NOT a Cat 1 link like used with
your 3-pt. Many hoe makers have now gone to a very robust 4-pt subframe
strategy, much like the commercial TLBs. You see this on the newer Woods
subframes, on Kubota's BH90s on their Grand Ls, and even on the
BX24/BT601. The best of these subframes allow you to at least leave the
3-pt arms on (folded out of the way) as noted by JAY.