Backhoe swing “spongy”

[TractorTech]

I normally do clamp the crosstube end in my press (as a vise, basically) to remove piston nuts. I've never come close to snapping anything off but i guess it's a good thing to have in mind as a possibility to be cautious of!

I was talking about the rod end ears to remove/tighten the rod nut.

 

[rScotty]

I normally do clamp the crosstube end in my press (as a vise, basically) to remove piston nuts. I've never come close to snapping anything off but i guess it's a good thing to have in mind as a possibility to be cautious of!

Do you have to take the cylinder out of the frame? Is it possible to just leave the crosstube end in the frame, disconnect the chain, and turn that big seal end nut while the frame holds the cylinder?
If so, maybe the whole cylinder piston and seal job can be done in the frame.

Also a person could lower the main boom so the BH bucket is on the ground, lift the rear end to max with the stabilizers, block it up, and then do the job without even having to squat. I much prefer to work standing or sitting than bending.
rScotty

 

[Vigo327]

Whoops, i was talking about the crosstube end of the rod, not the cylinder body.

I didn't get far enough into it to verify but it seemed to me like these were probably 'trunnion mount' cylinders, like this:

I didn't understand the comments i was seeing about how 'nothing holds the cylinder in, you can just pull it out' but after reading what i came across about a system maintaining low pressure even on the side you're not activating, i guess they would hold themselves in place as long as everything in that system still worked.. seems sketchy from over here across the internet without looking at it in real life, but maybe it's totally fine!

 

[Smokeydog]

Did seem to take some time to work the air out of the system on my Ford 4500 from a broken hose. Boom and stick cylinders partially. Never remember much about the swing cylinders except there was mechanical linkage that throttled the valve at the extreme left/right travel to slow the swing speed for safety. Actually could feel it in the swing control lever.

Lube that chain for swing as it was expensive to replace.

Great ole iron tractor. Cleanest engine oil of any diesel I have ever run.

 

[MEMEMEME]

1967 ford 4000 (or is that 4500?) industrial tractor with 753 backhoe.

Had several issues but finally up and going and working “mostly” well… but then I have a problem with the swing. It swings very aggressively when i operate the swing lever but it is also very “spongy”… when I let go of the lever it carries on swinging, then “bounces back” like there is a ton of air in there or something.

Can anyone give me a quick overview of HOW the swing cylinders SHOULD be connected, and give me an incling of where the air could be in the system. Pretty much all of my other cylinders have bled themselves and I have very little sponginess anywhere else in the system.

Appreciate any help/advice you can give.

Will layer in more info/pictures when I get out to the tractor location again.

Did you get this figured out and if so, would you please post your solution and photos?
I have a '67? 4500 with the 755 hoe and have been dreading the day something goes wrong with the swings. That day arrived when a fairly significant leak developed suddenly (only upon swinging.to either side). Can't see the source, only the oil stream...

 

[MEMEMEME]

My hoe has no crossover tube or check valve mounted on the X-brace and I can't get my old body twisted around in there enough to see if the fittings near the closed ends of the tubes are breathers or if they once hàd hoses on 'em.
Don't want to dismount hoe to create space until ground dries out thoroughly lest something sink/shift and create more problems.

 

[TractorTech]

You could raise it up on the stabilizers, pitching the nose of the tractor down, swing it to one side and have someone look through the swing post. Swing it the other direction and repeat