Egon
Epic Contributor
Brute force is sometimes the easiest and fastest approach. :thumbsup:
Backing out rusted up Torx bolts ??????
- Thread starter kebo
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Brute force is sometimes the easiest and fastest approach. :thumbsup:
Scotty370
Platinum Member
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- Dec 18, 2008
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- Buffalo, New York
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- 318 John Deere, 4200 John Deere, 1947 John Deere "M"
I'd go a little different route, and grind the 1" rusted 'pass-though' screws flush, from the bottom. the heat of the grinding, just might loosen them up slightly. Maybe some PB Blaster on them before grinding. As far as returning things to Lowes, they'll take anything back, the receipt helps, but it isn't a deal breaker, if you lost it! ~Scotty
crbr
Veteran Member
Yes, and good plan for a newer trailer. Path of least resistance.
OP
kebo
Elite Member
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- 2001 John Deere 790 4x4, bar tires
Lots of good ideas and suggestions! It all gives me hope that I'll actually get this done in my lifetime! 
Just for the record, here's a pic of the trailer as it is now. Pretty sad shape, huh?
I started pulling the first board off yesterday evening. Spent maybe an hour and a half doing it before it got dark, but most of that was standing around scratching my head and doing lots of looking and thinking. My starting point was to bore a 1" hole about 3 inches from the aft end of the middle board. I then took my sawzall and cut from the center of the hole to each side of the board, effectively cutting about 3 inches off the end of it. I then took the angle grinder and cut off the heads of the first three Torx screws from the end, then got the prybar out and started prying. After a few minutes of prying, I had it off. The reason I chose this board is because it was only about 3 inches wide so it was easy to get off. I think when Diamond C builds their trailers, they install boards on the sides first, then work their way towards the middle. When they got to the middle of this one, they had to rip a board in half to fill in that 3 inch gap. Here is a picture of my arch nemisis in all its rusty glory:
Will start soaking these with PB Blaster and then see how hard it is to back them out (if it can be down). I will probably break (or cut) the bottom part of the screw off so I won't have to unscrew it all the way. Should have taken the pic from the other side, there's about an inch protruding on the bottom side of the angle joist. I guess these are 3" long TORX screws.
Below is a pic of my other arch nemisis I'm up against. This is the trailer's frame where the boards fits into a C channel at the front of the trailer. It has the same design on the aft end. I think when Diamond C installs the decking, they lay the boards in and then weld 2" wide metal strips on top of them to lock the ends in place. Easy for them, PIA for me! This means I'll have to actually bow the boards in the middle to get the new decking back in. Well, the first few boards I might be able to slide them in sideways, but at some point once it starts to fill up, I'll have to start bending them. No idea how that will go until I get there, but I'm a long ways from that point.
So, I'll just work at this in my spare time in the evenings and some on the weekends till I get all the boards off. Then, I'll pull it to the guy who's going to paint it for me. A trailer with no deck on it should get a few double looks!!
After it's been sandblasted, primed, & painted and I get it back, then I'll deal with getting the new boards back on. One thing for sure, I won't be using TORX screws! Someone suggesting using carriage bolts, I do have a bucket of them in the garage. If they are the right length, I'll use them instead. That will save me a few bucks on this job. I'll post a pic or two when it's all done. Thanks again!
Just for the record, here's a pic of the trailer as it is now. Pretty sad shape, huh?
I started pulling the first board off yesterday evening. Spent maybe an hour and a half doing it before it got dark, but most of that was standing around scratching my head and doing lots of looking and thinking. My starting point was to bore a 1" hole about 3 inches from the aft end of the middle board. I then took my sawzall and cut from the center of the hole to each side of the board, effectively cutting about 3 inches off the end of it. I then took the angle grinder and cut off the heads of the first three Torx screws from the end, then got the prybar out and started prying. After a few minutes of prying, I had it off. The reason I chose this board is because it was only about 3 inches wide so it was easy to get off. I think when Diamond C builds their trailers, they install boards on the sides first, then work their way towards the middle. When they got to the middle of this one, they had to rip a board in half to fill in that 3 inch gap. Here is a picture of my arch nemisis in all its rusty glory:
Will start soaking these with PB Blaster and then see how hard it is to back them out (if it can be down). I will probably break (or cut) the bottom part of the screw off so I won't have to unscrew it all the way. Should have taken the pic from the other side, there's about an inch protruding on the bottom side of the angle joist. I guess these are 3" long TORX screws.
Below is a pic of my other arch nemisis I'm up against. This is the trailer's frame where the boards fits into a C channel at the front of the trailer. It has the same design on the aft end. I think when Diamond C installs the decking, they lay the boards in and then weld 2" wide metal strips on top of them to lock the ends in place. Easy for them, PIA for me! This means I'll have to actually bow the boards in the middle to get the new decking back in. Well, the first few boards I might be able to slide them in sideways, but at some point once it starts to fill up, I'll have to start bending them. No idea how that will go until I get there, but I'm a long ways from that point.
So, I'll just work at this in my spare time in the evenings and some on the weekends till I get all the boards off. Then, I'll pull it to the guy who's going to paint it for me. A trailer with no deck on it should get a few double looks!!
After it's been sandblasted, primed, & painted and I get it back, then I'll deal with getting the new boards back on. One thing for sure, I won't be using TORX screws! Someone suggesting using carriage bolts, I do have a bucket of them in the garage. If they are the right length, I'll use them instead. That will save me a few bucks on this job. I'll post a pic or two when it's all done. Thanks again!
Egon
Epic Contributor
The ends are easy; just use a saw and trim off a couple inches from the end. Then start in with a long pry bar and keep at it. Faster and easier than mucking about with the screws. :thumbsup:
Just ask me, I tried the screw bit!
And using the brute force method with a lever gets the boards off so it's a lot easier to use the angle grinder to cut off the bolts. You don't got to crawl underneath.
Just ask me, I tried the screw bit!
And using the brute force method with a lever gets the boards off so it's a lot easier to use the angle grinder to cut off the bolts. You don't got to crawl underneath.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
penetrants and an impact driver won't do it?
Sackett2
Platinum Member
Dad and I did my trailer 2 years ago. Used a saws-all and cut the boards in 1/2, then lifted each board out, using the leverage to rip the screws out. ground them flush and put pressure treated boards in
skipmarcy
Veteran Member
If you are going to use treated lumber for replacement boards you sure don't want to use standard carriage bolts or you'll have a bigger problem than you have now in just a few years. On the decks I've replaced on my trailers I've bit the bullet and bought the self-tapping torx screws - they're expensive at NAPA, about .25 each, but they work & last me pretty well. I didn't even try to get the old screw holes cleared, just pilot drill new holes for the new screws and screw 'em down.
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
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- Daleville, IN
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- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
I do a few trailers a year and here are some tips.
We cut the boards right down the middle of the trailer just in front of the front axle with a chain saw watching out for tail light and brake wires. We then use a FEL and chain to yank out the boards. They are usually toast anyway. We then bend over the screws with vise grips or a 3# sledge and grind them flat.
As for putting new boards in cut the board to length. Do not cut them short because they will shrink. I had 1 customer bring me a trailer where the boards were falling out because he cut the boards for a 16' trailer only 1/2" long to make them easier to get in the pockets.
The first 4 or 5 will go in by placing them in at a angle from the front left corner of the trailer to the right rear corner. Tap them in with a sledge using a scrap piece of lumber to protect your new boards. The remaining boards are even easier if you have a 200# helper. Cut a length of 2x4 about 18" long for later use. Place the front end of the deck board in the pocket. Now stand your 2x4 vertically on the top of the front axle, place the board on it, and have your 200# buddy stand on the rear of the board. It will drop down adjacent to the rear pocket and using a sledge hammer knock the 2x4 out. Repeat for all the boards. The boards will snap right into place. You may need a longer or shorter 2x4 but from the looks of it about 18" will do. I can deck a trailer in 10 minutes using this method.
As for the screws all we do now is put 3 per board. By the way we use 2x12's. We put one on the first cross brace, the middle cross brace, and the last cross brace. One of my clients who runs a mowing outfit wants no screws which works also. The boards are not going anywhere once in the pocket but will bounce around when being towed empty and make some noise.
Chris
We cut the boards right down the middle of the trailer just in front of the front axle with a chain saw watching out for tail light and brake wires. We then use a FEL and chain to yank out the boards. They are usually toast anyway. We then bend over the screws with vise grips or a 3# sledge and grind them flat.
As for putting new boards in cut the board to length. Do not cut them short because they will shrink. I had 1 customer bring me a trailer where the boards were falling out because he cut the boards for a 16' trailer only 1/2" long to make them easier to get in the pockets.
The first 4 or 5 will go in by placing them in at a angle from the front left corner of the trailer to the right rear corner. Tap them in with a sledge using a scrap piece of lumber to protect your new boards. The remaining boards are even easier if you have a 200# helper. Cut a length of 2x4 about 18" long for later use. Place the front end of the deck board in the pocket. Now stand your 2x4 vertically on the top of the front axle, place the board on it, and have your 200# buddy stand on the rear of the board. It will drop down adjacent to the rear pocket and using a sledge hammer knock the 2x4 out. Repeat for all the boards. The boards will snap right into place. You may need a longer or shorter 2x4 but from the looks of it about 18" will do. I can deck a trailer in 10 minutes using this method.
As for the screws all we do now is put 3 per board. By the way we use 2x12's. We put one on the first cross brace, the middle cross brace, and the last cross brace. One of my clients who runs a mowing outfit wants no screws which works also. The boards are not going anywhere once in the pocket but will bounce around when being towed empty and make some noise.
Chris
Scotty370
Platinum Member
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- Dec 18, 2008
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- Buffalo, New York
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- 318 John Deere, 4200 John Deere, 1947 John Deere "M"
KeBo- Re post #24 I don't think "Sad-Shape' is appropriate! Deck and paint, It's a keeper!! ~Scotty
