Bale Spear

[Arc weld]

For something that has to hold weight, like a 1000 bale flexing on the 3 pt., downhand 7018 is a bad idea. This isn't a big heavy implement. I don't understand why you couldn't put the tubing flat and put a nice horizontal fillet in? In the one weld, you can see voids and pin holes in the weld. It's a lot easier to fix now than after it breaks.

 

[TomSeller]

Looks well made. Personally, I don't like such a long spear. Long spears make getting away from the bale when stacking them in tight quarters difficult. You don't really need a very long spear to lift a bale.

 

[R W]

Well Done.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

For something that has to hold weight, like a 1000 bale flexing on the 3 pt., downhand 7018 is a bad idea. This isn't a big heavy implement. I don't understand why you couldn't put the tubing flat and put a nice horizontal fillet in? In the one weld, you can see voids and pin holes in the weld. It's a lot easier to fix now than after it breaks.

I thought I said I did have the tubing flat when I made those welds and I will add another pass or 2 to the lower hitch mounts. The only downhand welds I made were on the front side of the upper hitch tabs with 7014. Those shouldn't see much stress.

Thanks for the tip on the craters Shield Arc. Do you have a good technique for finishing up the bead or do you clean it up and add a weld over the crater? I did run the rod back upstream a little before I pulled away but I was pretty hesitant to dwell too long for fear of blowing through the 3/16 tube. The corners do look under-welded in the pics. That tube-tube joint should mainly see compression and shear but I'll fill in the craters before I paint it.

 

[Shield Arc]

I try to make a conscious effort to start the rod 1/2 to 3/4 inch ahead of where I want the weld to start. This allows the rod to be hot when the weld starts. When stopping I change the rod angle to almost 90-degrees to the plate, or maybe a little backwards, and close up the arc length some, (push the rod into the puddle). This helps cool the puddle, then I back up a little to fill the crater.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Belated thanks for the instruction on craters Shield Arc. I beefed up some of the welds but didn't take any more detail pics.

Here are a couple of pictures with it painted and the top capped off. I really like the pin-on spear. It's nice to be able to pull it off when parked and it's easy to handle in 2 pieces.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Looks well made. Personally, I don't like such a long spear. Long spears make getting away from the bale when stacking them in tight quarters difficult. You don't really need a very long spear to lift a bale.

I think it has a lot to do with how tightly the bale is wrapped, or by what kind of baler and how big it is. An open chamber baler tends to make a softer center than a belt type which has a harder core most times. A softer center is going to need a longer spear to support the weight all the way through or it can break apart on a long carry. I prefer the super penetrater types which are fluted and tapered....they are less likely to push the center out of a tight centered bale.