Ball Size

[aczlan]

I have the factory 2 inch ball that came with the truck. I have no idea what it is rated for or if it's a good one or not. I've never even heard of a ball that failed. Does that really happen? I guess my lack of knowledge of this happening is what's behind my question. Does a 2 inch ball fail?

Eddie

The weight rating should be stamped into the top of the ball and onto the ball mount.
I wouldn't run one over capacity, but it should be good up to that weight.

Aaron Z

 

[cartod]

I used to have a photo of a ball that broke, I think it might have been the only one that ever failed. :laughing:

The old guys I used to run into when we pulled Airstream trailers always said to change your ball out every ____ years. I don't recall the number. The idea was that something that cheap that withstood that much stress should updated.

 

[s219]

I have heard of all sizes of balls failing, but mainly when used for something that is "not" towing (like as an attachment point when yanking another vehicle out of the mud). Ultimately, the rating probably has to do with the shank and not the ball size. I'd get one from a trusted manufacturer that has the rating stamped on, and wouldn't worry whether it's 2" or 2-5/16" really -- that's more of a convenience/compatibility issue than anything else from my experience. Both sizes can be rated pretty high for towing capacity.

When I bought my new truck that can tow up to 9500# or so, I got all new balls (2" and 2-5/16") and drawbars rated to handle at least that much (I think the balls are rated 11,000# actually, but the drawbars 10,000#). The balls and drawbars I had for my previous tow vehicle were rated closer to the 5000# limit of that old vehicle. I won't necessarily tow up to my new truck's 9500# limit, but I wanted to make sure all the hardware was rated to do so just in case.

 

[dragoneggs]

The trailers I'm looking at mostly need a 2 inch ball. A few say 2 5/16 inch. My truck is a Ford F-150 and I'm wanting to pull a 16 ft stock trailer. It might haul a horse to the vet, or as many as four cows/steers at the most. They all come with one axle having brakes in the price range I'm looking at. $5,000

I'm just wondering if I bought one needing the 2 inch ball, would I run into some trouble down the road? I've rented skid steers and the trailer to haul them, which always takes a 2 5/16 ball, which they have also provided. I just don't know what the advantage is when pulling with a half ton truck?

Thanks,
Eddie

Honestly, I think you are fine with a 2in ball from what you are saying. More universal for sure.

 

[Billrog]

Eddie do you mean your bumper or a receiver hitch on your pick up ? I do not think bumpers are rated for more than about 500#. Both my larger trailers take 2 5/16" balls.

 

[Fallon]

They all come with one axle having brakes in the price range I'm looking at. $5,000

Pulling is easy. Stopping is the hard/scary/important part.

Personally I won't ever buy a trailer with only 50% braking capacity, that's just asking for problems. Pretty darn sure its illegal in most states too. I didn't pay to much attention as it was moot for me, but last I read Oregon & Colorado laws anything over 3k lbs needed brakes on all axles.

 

[MH8675309]

Iv'e got one of those outfits with three different balls that you flip around if you need a different size ball. It was a little pricey but it adjusts up and down for different trailer heights too. The whole thing probably weighs 60 pounds and it is solid steel. You can find just the hitch with three balls for cheaper though.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Pulling is easy. Stopping is the hard/scary/important part.

Personally I won't ever buy a trailer with only 50% braking capacity, that's just asking for problems. Pretty darn sure its illegal in most states too. I didn't pay to much attention as it was moot for me, but last I read Oregon & Colorado laws anything over 3k lbs needed brakes on all axles.

Nope. All the law says in most states is it has brakes and a brake away kit capable of holding the trailer for 15 minutes.

All the 7K trailers I have sold have had brakes on one axle and a 2" coupler rated at 7,500#. Bigger than that get brakes on both and 2 5/16" couplers.

Chris

 

[Looking4new]

Anything over 3,000 lbs MUST have brakes on all the axles if I am going to hook up to it. Period. But that is just me. I have seen some people go down the road with no brakes on trailers, you people have seen them too. They are the ones that end up in trouble on a wet road.

 

[RandyT]

IL is below 3000# no brake requirement, 3000-5000# brakes on one axle, over 5000# brakes on all axles. The thing is at least here, people will buy a 7000# rated tandem axle 16' trailer with no brakes and license it for 3000#, then haul way more than that.

 

[weldingisfun]

Eddie, the CM Stocker trailer, 16 foot, like you said you wanted, comes with brakes on both axles if you get the 5200# axles and it has a 2 5/16" Bulldog hitch. That is what I have and it is great. The trailer brakes my Dodge Ram 2500. I bought it used from up near you, in Mt Pleasant, about 5 or 6 years ago.

 

[EddieWalker]

After doing some looking at trailers yesterday, I think I'm making a mistake with a bumper pull stock trailer. They are just too tight for horses, and I'm not comfortable with trying to make it work. I've decided to get the B&W turnover gooseneck ball for my truck bed and install it myself. Then I will buy a 3 horse slant load gooseneck trailer. Probably used, and probably aluminum.

I think for the long term, this will be something that I will enjoy having instead of regret buying.

But back to ball size, I am curious why the pin that attaches that hitch isn't brought up? Seems to me that it is the weak link to everything. I would expect it to sheer before something happens to the ball.

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[weldingisfun]

Whatever you decide on, with an F-150 you should look at a trailer with brakes on both axles. Figure three horses would weigh around 3000 to 3600 #, add the weight of the trailer. You want all that weight controlled by the trailer.
Can't answer your question about the hitch pin, but you are right. It does seem to bee the weak link. Someone out there knows.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
But back to ball size, I am curious why the pin that attaches that hitch isn't brought up? Seems to me that it is the weak link to everything. I would expect it to sheer before something happens to the ball.

Thank you,
Eddie

I think you will be happier with the gooseneck.
Concerning the "pin" that attaches the hitch do you mean the shank on the ball?
Those also are normally thicker for heavier duty balls and are usually part of the ball (not always).
For example 2" balls come w/ 3/4 and 1" shanks. I guess generally bigger balls, bigger shanks.

 

[aczlan]

I think you will be happier with the gooseneck.
Concerning the "pin" that attaches the hitch do you mean the shank on the ball?
Those also are normally thicker for heavier duty balls and are usually part of the ball (not always).
For example 2" balls come w/ 3/4 and 1" shanks. I guess generally bigger balls, bigger shanks.

I think he means the pin that holds the ball mount into the receiver? If so, this was discussed a while back: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/182179-hitch-pins.html

Aaron Z

 

[EddieWalker]

Interesting thread. It sounds like the pin is plenty strong enough for anything you can pull.

Eddie

 

[Diamondpilot]

After doing some looking at trailers yesterday, I think I'm making a mistake with a bumper pull stock trailer. They are just too tight for horses, and I'm not comfortable with trying to make it work. I've decided to get the B&W turnover gooseneck ball for my truck bed and install it myself. Then I will buy a 3 horse slant load gooseneck trailer. Probably used, and probably aluminum. I think for the long term, this will be something that I will enjoy having instead of regret buying. But back to ball size, I am curious why the pin that attaches that hitch isn't brought up? Seems to me that it is the weak link to everything. I would expect it to sheer before something happens to the ball. Thank you, Eddie

It takes about 55,000# of force to shear a 5/8" non hardened hitch pin. You will break the hitch itself before the pin.

Chris

 

[dstig1]

The pin is in double shear - there is no better mode you could ask for, from a mechanical engineering standpoint, for metal parts. And frankly it is in double shear in 2 places, so the load is reduced by half on each side. The pin is typically not going to be an issue...

 

[TomSeller]

I think you will be happier with the gooseneck.

curious what a professional installation of a turnover gooseneck ball runs?

 

[dragoneggs]

The pin is in double shear - there is no better mode you could ask for, from a mechanical engineering standpoint, for metal parts. And frankly it is in double shear in 2 places, so the load is reduced by half on each side. The pin is typically not going to be an issue...

Quite right Dave!