Bar getting too hot?

[Rio_Grande]

I was cutting today and my bar got really hot. It is throwing oil so I think it is lubricating. My chain is a bit sloppy side to side in the bar slot. End roller is fine.

Wondering if my bar has finally gave out?

 

[MikeInEburg]

Heat is the result of friction. If chain is sloppy side to side, I'd say the bar is finished. They're relatively inexpensive. Remember that in the world of chainsaws, there is no stronger imperitive than "Safety first"!
Mike

 

[westbrooklawn]

Do you have the right size chain on your saw?... for example is it possible you put a .050 chain on a .058 bar? If the chain is the right size then maybe your bar can be reconditioned... bar rails and groves can be fixed. There is a tool to tighten the groove...

Bailey's - WoodlandPRO Chain Saw Bar Rail Closer

 

[DJ4wd]

I would agree its you bar causing your problems. I be willing to say if you purchased a new bar and chain the problem would disappear.

 

[mountainlake]

Is your chain sharp, a dull chain will heat up the bar fast. Steve

 

[20 20]

When a bar heats up 1st thing to check is chain sharpness, even a straight cutting chain can be dull{usually they cut to one side when dull}. When I run mine if the saw isn't pulling itself through the wood then it needs to be sharpened. If you're applying any force to the cut then IMO chain is dull. If it is the bar they can be fixed, if it isn't to far gone. I'd also check the clutch for wear while you have everything else apart. What type of saw are you running?

 

[LD1]

What kind of saw would be of great help to know as well.

And I agree, dull chains get hot quicker.

A couple of ways to tell when dull

1. as already mentioned, when the saw stops pulling and you have to force it through the cut. A sharp chain is able to cut with no pressure at all on the front handle.

2. You can tell it's dull if you start throwing powder instead of the big square chips. If your sawdust looks like when you use a circular saw in the garage cutting 2x4's, you are dull.

3. If the top to the cutters look dirty, it is a good indication that they are dull. A good sharp chain keeps the top plate of the cutter nice and shiney.

It is hard to judge by your post what your level of knowledge is on a saw, so if I say something really basic like talking to someone that has never owned a saw, dont take offense to it.

How did you verify the chain is getting lube? Did you hold the nose next to a peice of cardboard, or peice of wood and verify?? Did you verify AFTER the bar got hot?? Sometimes the oiler can work just fin when you headd out to the woods, but somewhere in the middle of you day, something can become lodged in the oiler hole in the bar and overheat the bar.

Do you sharpen your own chains? If so, do you lower the rakers as well? As stupid as it sounds, I had an uncle that has cut for years and never knew the rakers needed lowered. He sharpened his own chains too. So If you have sharpened 3-4 times and havent lowered the rakers, you may have a sharp chain but not allowing it to take a bite and that could cause problems.

Good luck and post back with some more info.

 

[MNBobcat]

Hi LD1,

I know that you're supposed to lower the rakers I've just not had to do it yet. But its time now.

I have a chain sharpener (grinder). Do you happen to know how one goes about lowering the rakers? Do you set the depth stop and grind the raker to a certain height?

 

[LD1]

I use a hand file on the rakers. But I also use a granberg style sharpening guide to hand sharpen as well.

There is also depth guages you can buy for a few bucks and hand file the rakers as well. I just free hand. A good sharp file and it only takes a few strokes off of each to reset the depth.

And most raker files are fine and only about 6" long. And they dont have "teeth" on the side/edge of the file either so you dont damage your cutter tooth.

 

[DJ4wd]

Heres what I use, its called a Sharpforce by Husquvarna. This will sharpen the cutters and the followers at the same time. This is all I ever use, and the best part is you can do it in the woods without taking the chain off the bar.You can also order some like it from Baileys.

 

[Rio_Grande]

I am certainly not a professional.

I can run and use a saw along with the minor maintence it takes to keep it going.

The saw is oiling at least some. It slings oil out on fresh cut wood.

I Do not sharpen my own chains as I have never learned how.

The chain is no doubt duller than it should be. I have 3 spares I take to the woods with ma and that day a spare saw so I just swapped out for my backup and finnished the work I needed to do.

I am going to take the saw apart and get a good cleaning on it and check pout the oil flow again.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

When you take the chain off of the bar, feel for a sharp edge where the chain rides on the bar, if ther is one use a flat file and remove it. I would also check to see if there is build-up in the bar groove; if the saw is dull (or has been) to the point of throwing dust & not chips as mentioned above, there is a good chance that there is build-up in the bar groove itself. You can use the same file you sharpen with (the end that goes into your handle) and flatten it out with a hammer (if you don't file your own chains, just do the flatten thing on a coat hanger or something), now you have something you can clean out the bar groove with. Be sure you have the right guage chain, most common are .050, .058 & .063, but you can't tell just by looking; the chain size should be indicated on the bar i.e .375 x 68DL x .050 = a .375 pitch 68 Drive Link .050 guage chain (common size for 18" bars with 3/8 chains) or .325 x 72DL x .050 = .325 pitch, 72 Drive link, .050 guage chain (common size for 18" .325 chains), if you don't match the chain with the bar (and sprocket but we won't go there) you will not only create heat but you will ruin the bar and the chain.

 

[RobertN]

From the last description, I would start with a good cleaning.

- make sure the oil port is clean. Should be able to fire the saw without a bar and get oil out of that port.
- Remove the bar. Clean is. Clean the groove, and clean the oil ports.
- Check the groove. check for wear, if the sides are bent, or have ridges. The ridges can be removed, and the sides straightened.
- Make sure you have the correct chain. Bar should be maked for chain size.
- Make sure your chain is sharp, and the rakers are set right. Search the Stihl Site and the Oregon site. Both have good info and tutorials on chains, and sharpening.
- Has the bar been flipped when the chain is changed?