Barn Door Project: Need Ideas

bebster · Mar 9, 2004

This is admittedly an unusual design, but have you considered doors where the right door swings in and the left door swings out? If you beveled the center edges of the doors slightly they'd "mate" nicely. Perhaps with a spring bolt to secure them at the top, you'd have one door as the "active" door, and the other would be passive, but usuable when you released the bolt. Something along the lines of the bolts on this site

DAP · Mar 10, 2004

Actually dave, from an explicit architectural view, the old section of this barn is a combination of a typical english barn and a dutch bank barn. Bank barns were always built into a grade. In my case, the bank is not severe enough to afford access to the 2nd story. That's why I consider it to be more of an english design.

In my case, I have lottsa wet spots near the barn itself, but the entire barn stays remarkably dry, grade notwithstanding. A good 19th century slate tile roof helps too.

As bebster posted, I'm also considering the idea of swing doors that open in opposing directions. This would reduce the weight and stresses on the hardware. Hanging doors in this configuration may require modifying or scratch building a new jamb, though.

Hmmm...

Lastly, what materials would be recommended. I don't wanna be repairing this door anytime soon but can't break the bank either. Pressure treated? Bead Board?, Flake Board? I'll prolly cross-buck it for aesthetics. I'm hopin I can obtain materials and hardware for under 350$ Been a while since I made a trip to the lumber yard.

bebster · Mar 10, 2004

I'd consider using cedar on the exterior of the door. It weathers well and would look better than pressure-treated wood. Also I think it is lighter. If you do the opposing doors, you'll might construct an inside frame for the door that is the same width as the door so that the hinges can be screwed to that frame on opposite sides.

DaveNay · Mar 10, 2004

( I'm hopin I can obtain materials and hardware for under 350$ Been a while since I made a trip to the lumber yard.
)

Bring your aspirin when you go, 'cause the prices are gonna hurt. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Personally, I would try to stick with solid woods as much as possible. Most plywoods aren't really rated for long term exposure (ok for weather during construction, but that's it), marine grade plywood is expensive, and I don't really like the look of pressure treated plywood. T-111 plywood has that bead board look, but unless you have a substantial frame behind it (like an exterior wall), it will warp almost instantly. I guess it boils down to a good #1 clear pine, or even a hardwood if you can afford it. I think that the softer the wood (southern yellow, etc) the more important the finishing will be, and the harder woods (doug fir, oak) will obviously hold up a lot longer. Maybe poplar is a nice middle ground?

I hate to say it, but I doubt if you will even be able to get all the hardware you need for under $300 /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Dave

DAP · Mar 10, 2004

Hardware? 4- 8 Hinges and a couple of latches? More than $300 ????

I figured the hardware would be about 80-100 dollars. It was the wood I was worried about.

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DaveNay · Mar 10, 2004

Sorry....I was thinking the track and trolley style. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Dave

DAP · Mar 10, 2004

I'm leaning toward some kinda pine bead board with pine 1x6 for stringers/framing. It will be painted in all likelihood. This door's only requirement is to open and close securely. It will not be insulated, otherwise the bats and barn swallows would be real P***ed!

I mainly just want to lose those folding garage doors. Actually, I have two doors to replace, but the other one has a different set of problems.

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bebster · Mar 10, 2004

Sounds like a good approach. I'm personally getting into a "NO maintenance" approach to my projects -- I find that as I build more stuff I don't want to become a fulltime painter -- and now try to use either natural aging woods or new composite trim boards that look like white painted wood (like azek for example). I like the painted look, but don't have enough time to golf as it is! Of course, when you're done, you have to post pictures.

DAP · Mar 10, 2004

( Of course, when you're done, you have to post pictures. )

Of course! However before this project get's off the ground, I must finish the dining room which is being restored. Those pics are next.

The dining parlor would have been done, but Mr. Murphy combined with a wall paper specialist/salesmen at HD couldn't operate a calculator. So with 9 sq. ft. left to paper, we ran out of paper. Now a nother 2 week wait in chaos for a new roll to show up for 15 mins worth of finishing the paper hanging.

My bad, shoulda done the calcs myself. After all, I paid for the wallpaper!

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weedsportpete · Mar 16, 2004

I built a pair of sliding doors for my barn with track and trolley from TSC.. about $150 (about) for the hardware. Each door is 7 feet wide and 13 feet high, plywood in the middle, upper and lower X braces on the back(interior) and some left- over metal siding from the new pole barn to cover the front of the door.. It will match the barn when I paint the barn /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. The hardest part was the weight of the doors, working with them and lifting them up into the rails. I'm pretty stubborn about doing things myself but had to have help.. used the loader to lift it up, another person to steady the door and me up on the ladder guiding the trolley into the rail. They move pretty slow, in either direction, so I think its still level.