Battery Info

   / Battery Info #241  
A battery balancer is a good idea.

For all of my chargers, there has been no need to take the batteries apart in order to charge them individually: I can just connect each one up to a different battery while all of the batteries are still connected to the vehicle. (I suppose it's possible to have a charger where this could be a problem, but I have not yet run into a modern charger that exhibits this problem.)


a 24V charger will not restore balance to two 12V batteries connected in series. If they are out of balance, they will generally remain so when charging with a 24V charger: you will continue to have one battery in the series string undercharged and the other overcharged.
Interestingly enough, when taking the 24 V solar charger off this afternoon I checked the voltages on all four batteries. The two "dead" ones (with desufation) had about a 1/10 V higher voltage than the two good ones. Still not good specific gravity, though.

Somehow I've never heard of a battery balancer before, despite having had many vehicles with multiple batteries. Currently it's 10 of them, plus three trailers, so maybe I should look into getting some of those.

Also, took the little NOCO off of the (formerly) good battery and put it on a smaller size AGM battery, about 25 years old and dead for the past 10 or so.
It did begin to charge it, and this NOCO is definitely high voltage pulses instead of the high frequency I'm used to. It jumped between 8 and change and 18+.
 
   / Battery Info #242  
I have both NOCO and Ctek. Both are good chargers. I think the CTek handles the charging differently for sulfonated batteries. I've had good luck keeping mine up. Including my 17' Ridgeline FLA battery. It lasted 8 years and I'm sure Ctek helped to do that. I just replaced it in October.
 
   / Battery Info #244  
Those are generally maxed out at 100amps, you should test batteries at 50% of rated CCA. SO A 550 CCA battery should be tested at 225 amp draw for i believe its 10-15 seconds. Mine beeps when its done.

My carbon pyle tester is also harbor freight, but its rated 500 amps. I dont see that anymore, now they have a 1000 amp model.

After i hit a battery with the carbon pyle tester, i then test it with electronic Midtronics tester. The battery must pass both, or i replace it. I maintain lots of generator batteries, plus lots of my own.
Both brands of tune up scopes I used to repair (1980's) did the crankdown battery test for 15 seconds to determine capacity.
 
   / Battery Info #246  
With a simple voltmeter. And I doubt that there are any electronics in that old battery.
yea that seems pretty off to me. I have never seen that, especially the ability to see it bounce like that. normal meters can't see pulse's. is this the one amp model?
 
   / Battery Info #247  
With a simple voltmeter. And I doubt that there are any electronics in that old battery.
I'm guessing it wasn't the battery he was concerned about (not many have built in electronics, though it is becoming more common in some of the newer designs). It would be whatever electronics are in the vehicle if the battery is not disconnected before charging.
 
   / Battery Info #249  
I have a 2008 Kubota 95x with original Kubota battery. It stays in a barn with no power so I bring it out to the shop a couple of times during the winter to charge battery. I keep thinking this is the last year it will make it but it hasn’t let me down yet. After bragging on it now I am sure I will be replacing it soon!
 
   / Battery Info #250  

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