Battery terminal vs clamp. RANT included.

[N80]

This is actually about a car battery.....but just pretend it is on my tractor. We have been having constant trouble with my wife's car battery. Almost every time it can be traced to the negative terminal clamp coming loose. The OEM terminal clamp will not fully and tightly clamp down on the battery terminal. I've tried the aftermarket shim/caps. They don't stay on well and tend to fall apart. They are made of lead.

Brief rant, and just assume every third word is a deleted expletive: Why, why, WHY! would battery makers and automakers not make terminal and clamps that will fit properly? Why, why WHY is there a need for shims? Why wouldn't a clamp fit different sized terminals....at least to adapt to minor variations? It just seems amazing to me that in this century that this is an issue at all. It makes me turn purple, throw tools and say things my wife should never have to hear.

I made a shim out of copper pipe. Sanded both sides and after quite a bit of bodging, cussing and mechanical gymnastics got the terminal clamp back on and tight.

I would like to cut the OEM terminal off. It is the negative lead so it is just a simple cable. My question is this: On line I see lots of different terminal clamps. Some very fancy and sophisticated looking but reviews are almost universally so-so on all of them......can anyone here recommend a good aftermarket terminal clamp that actually fits a battery terminal and is easy to work on and with?

 

[RalphVa]

I don't have a recommendation, as I haven't worked on them in quite a while. You can replace the end or the whole cable, since the negative one is usually fairly short.

Wouldn't happen to be a Toyota would it? Battery cable ends were the achilles heal of an otherwise generally troublefree vehicle on Toyotas.

Ralph

 

[N80]

It's an Infiniti (Nissan). No such issues on any of my previous Nissans or Ifinitis (lots of them).

 

[bcp]

I've had best luck with these replacement terminals. usually called military terminals, for some reason.



Bruce

 

[tjkubota93]

Replace the entire cable

 

[pmsmechanic]

I would clean everything up good with baking soda. Next install the present clamp where you want it. Snug it up and drill a small hole exactly between the battery post and the clamp. Hold it! Is this a metal clamp? If so them drill a hole so the a sheet metal screw can be tightly turned in holding the clamp on. Once that is done then tighten up the battery clamp completely. Lastly spray the battery clamp and post with a generous coating of Fluid Film. It leaves behind a waxy coating that prevents corrosion.

 

[Wagtail]

(to state the obvious) Something is causing excessive vibration on that negative cable in order to loosen the connection. Perhaps the cable itself is too short or is against something.

The positive connection is performing well, right?

Is the battery itself secure (clamped down) so that it cannot shift/vibrate in any direction?

 

[Alan W.]

I replaced the battery on my Ford Ranger with one from Walmart and the ground clamp will barely grip it. Was tight on the old battery. For some reason the ground post is undersize. Gotta take it back. Have you checked to see if its the post.

 

[ruffdog]

Non-standard post sizes.....WTF?

 

[N80]

This is the third battery (over the years) that this is an issue with. All clean, no corrosion. This has lead to dead batteries though. The clamp when tightened all the way is still loose. I do not think there is any excessive vibration and the batteries have never been loose. No issues with positive clamp. (Now, another rant, getting to this battery is ridiculous. Being a 'sports' car it is mounted up against the firewall underneath all this plastic trim. It all has to be removed to get the battery out and even just getting to it to remove the cables is silly.)

I think non-standard post sizes must be a somewhat common issue as some clamps even come with shims! Again, this is the third battery this has been an issue with so in this case it might be poor QC with the batteries but it seems to mostly be an issue with the clamp.

bcp, I'll look at those clamps.

 

[N80]

As a side note, my actual tractor, which is 13 years old now, still has its original battery, all cables firmly secured, starts every time hot or cold even after sitting for weeks and sometimes a month at a time without being used. Wish all batteries were this good.

 

[WranglerX]

Funny this should come up..... Changed out battery on wife's Honda from a 5 year guarantee battery that went almost 6 year's to cheap mexican made 3 year guaranteed battery and negative post on new battery would not hold ... To small.... Ended up using a piece of 1/2 copper water pipe (annealed) and molded it to shape of battery post as a spacer and then could tighten up clamp..... Used anti-corrosive grease on whole assembly to prevent corrosion.....

Crappy A $$ house brand cheap mexican battery from O'Rileys....

Dale

 

[ruffdog]

The negative terminal is a smaller diameter. Did they install a positive cable on both sides?

 

[N80]

Dale, the first two batteries I had this issue with were the basic Advanced Auto Parts (or maybe it was Auto Zone) batteries. The current one is an Optima Yellow. (I understand that Optima's are probably a waste of money but wife bought it without asking me). Anyway, Optimas are expensive. No excuse for this.

ruffdog, I have no idea. The clamp is OEM and the negative cable is a simple clamp and cable. The positive is this elaborate affair that appears to have fuses in it.

 

[tjkubota93]

I noticed working as a mechanic, that alot of clamps were clamped too far.

This way, they would not go all the way down on the post and would seem loose setting up on the top of the tapered battery lug.

I fixed that issue on many, many people's cars when I would do other work just to prevent a needless comeback.

Make sure the lug is stretched as far as it can be without damaging it.

Then make sure it goes ALL the way down onto the tapered post (unless the post has a ridge at the bottom, this means contacting the plastic case).

Then while holding it down, tighten the clamp part. If you dont spread the lug open, it doesn't matter how much you beat on it or tighten it, it just wont go on good.

I generally only use acdelco, motorcraft or mopar batteries. Acdelco being a favorite.

If you get a cheap battery, I bet the terminals might be undersized. Lead has a cost. Theres a reason that battery was cheaper.

As simple as it seems, as many improper battery installations as I have seen, I would guess most people that install a battery have absolutely no business doing it.

 

[Wagtail]

After extensive research, I watched this informative video on changing a car battery. Safely, of course.

How-To Replace a Car Battery With Julia - YouTube

I watched it at least 5 times... finally noting that the battery actually didn't have 'posts'. :confused3:

 

[mcfarmall]

I would guess most people that install a battery have absolutely no business doing it.

This question is not directed at tjkubota93 but as a general response.

Why is installing a battery so difficult?? (for some people)

There are typically 2 hold down bolts to remove/install. Two battery terminals, one bigger than the other, or side posts with a bolt or nut & bolt assembly. You apply a dash of common sense (to me) by cleaning the posts and the clamps, make sure they are fully seated and making good contact. Tighten fasteners and spray with anti-corrosion spray. Done.

Much simpler than say, changing the timing belt and water pump on a Honda 3.5 liter V-6. And the timing belt job isn't difficult, just time consuming.

 

[oosik]

My battery cable ends are as pictured by bcp - post #4. They are OEM and, so far, have remained tight for nine years. I put a new battery (Odyssey Group 31) in the tractor last year. Only problem with the installation - - lifting and extending to get new battery in proper place. Man - it took a screaming grunt to get that 78# battery in place.

 

[Gem99ultra]

It's an Infiniti (Nissan). No such issues on any of my previous Nissans or Ifinitis (lots of them).

Same problem with our Nissan Pathfinder - original negative cable was too large for our replacement Interstate battery. Had to go with the cheap adapter, but even with that, it just doesn't seem right. Why the different size negative posts? I see no reason.

I like the batteries with the dual post, i.e. top post and side post. That eliminates the problem. Seems some standardization is in order.

 

[PILOON]

The negative terminal is a smaller diameter. Did they install a positive cable on both sides?

Bet U nailed it!
Possibly a replacement 'universal' cable was installed at some point?

Also if the battery is not well clamped down and can move a bit could explain a loose negative clamp as they tend to be shorter lengths.