Bearing removal

[user.69169]

Bearing separator gotta contact & index hub before pulling er gonna do damage to outer race. NO force should be applied to uter race.

 

[Leejohn]

The correct bearing splitter has knife edges and could easily get between the gear and bearing. It looks like the gap is about .040" so that is plenty of room to start.

You are right... One with sharp tapered starting edge.

 

[ruffdog]

But....pulling on the outer race is a no-no. By the marks on the gear, it looks like a Hy-vo silent type chain rides on it. Unless there are access holes through the gear to the inner race, I don't see how you could pull the bearing without sacrificing it.

 

[the old grind]

Turn a pair/set of the thick-edged bearing grippers over and grind the flat sides flat/flush to thin the lips.

Pressing the outer race is far less likely to cause damage than any impact method of moving it out, even just enuf to get puller jaws behind it.

btw, I'll have to re-read what (removed) Goldberg wrote. It surely makes sense, but IMO any more than three steps sounds like work.

 

[denchen]

To use heat is a no - no, but to cool the whole lot, and warm the bearing may help, especially if a puller is attached and under tension at the same time.

 

[3Lfarms]

Thanks for all the replies. There is an overhaul manual, but I just says “remove bearing”. It also assumes that I have all new bearings. Normally, used bearings go in the scrap bin and are not re-used.
The engineer just expects me to remove the bearing without causing any damage to it. I told him it’s not possible to get it off that shaft without causing some level of damage.
I have a precision parts oven. How hot could I get the whole assembly before causing damage to the seals? I would think 100 degrees C should be OK. Then try and rapidly cool the shaft with dry ice.

 

[3Lfarms]

I have a full machine shop, so I think my plan today will be to make a bearing separator out of delrin so I don’t damage the shaft.
In combination with heat/cold I think that gives me the best chance of getting the bearing to move a little so that a thin collet type puller can get behind the inner race and put it off.

 

[dodge man]

I picture making something in two halves with a half circle in the middle. Image two pieces of sheet metal that would slide between the gear and bearing. Then some kind of puller gripping the sheet metal close to the gear. The problem is sheet metal probably is not strong enough but there is not much room for anything thicker.

 

[the old grind]

To be clear, I meant to sharpen the 'blunt' inner curved edges of the puller sections.

Sometimes, just tightening the cross bolts after tucking the edges between the bearing and shoulder/gear/etc will unseat it. then finish the pull. (BTDT)

(I'm a guy who works at room temp.)

 

[3Lfarms]

I have a few of these to overhaul. I tried forcing the standard bearing separator halves in there, but the gap is just too small to get the puller in there. Ended up breaking the bearing and the spines on the shaft actually cut little grooves into the backside of the puller.
Maybe I will have to sacrifice the bearing separator. Maybe even put it in the lathe and machine it down thin enough.