Beet juice

[1930]

From the Brandon/Ocala area I think it likely that the OP may need to drive nearly to Tennessee to find a dealer who installs Rimguard/beet juice.
Maybe 600 miles?

The RK dealer I spoke with said their rims come standard loaded, I cant remember if I asked him what they were loaded with. I be surprised its straight water

 

[Motorboatin]

The RK dealer I spoke with said their rims come standard loaded, I cant remember if I asked him what they were loaded with. I be surprised its straight water

They say it’s Rimguard on the website

 

[SPYDERLK]

Why is it that you dont want water?

See post 6, I welded the rim cause I didnt want to try and find another

New rims every 30 - 40yrs is cheap compared to costs of buying and dealing with a non disposable ballast for the same period.

 

[oosik]

When I bought my 2009 Kubota - it came from the dealer with RimGuard. First time I checked the rear tire pressure - got sprayed with RimGuard. Thought that flashed thru my mind - My God, what have I done to cut myself so bad. Then I got the taste of it in my mouth - sweet, like maple syrup.

I had followed the "standard procedure". Valve stem a 12 'O Clock high - The thing I didn't realize - being thick and syrupy - RimGuard doesn't easily drain out of the stem. Now I shoot a blast of air into the stem first and blow any back into the tire. Works like a champ.

However - it's been more than six years since I've actually checked the pressure with a gage. Just drive out on the driveway and make sure the bars make contact for the full width. This equals about 14 to 16 psi.

 

[MaineGuy1]

They only fill the tire 3/4 full. If you get a leak you roll it to the 12 o'clock position. If you need to add air, you roll it to the 12 o'clock position. I would fill my tires before I dealt with weights but that is just me.

 

[oosik]

I have 1550# of RimGuard in my rear tires. I don't have wheel weights for two reasons. Cost & I don't even know if I could get that much weight.

RimGuard is easy and, so far, after ten years has presented no problems.

 

[SPYDERLK]

When I bought my 2009 Kubota - it came from the dealer with RimGuard. First time I checked the rear tire pressure - got sprayed with RimGuard. Thought that flashed thru my mind - My God, what have I done to cut myself so bad. Then I got the taste of it in my mouth - sweet, like maple syrup.

I had followed the "standard procedure". Valve stem a 12 'O Clock high - The thing I didn't realize - being thick and syrupy - RimGuard doesn't easily drain out of the stem. Now I shoot a blast of air into the stem first and blow any back into the tire. Works like a champ.

However - it's been more than six years since I've actually checked the pressure with a gage. Just drive out on the driveway and make sure the bars make contact for the full width. This equals about 14 to 16 psi.

There comes a time when mud or crud gets jammed in at the rim flange. There are many situations that will damage or destroy the valve. Punctures happen. Tires are damaged or wear out. In some situations you would like the tractor to be lighter or heavier.

All trivial with water fill.​

 

[Tennsawdust]

New rims every 30 - 40yrs is cheap compared to costs of buying and dealing with a non disposable ballast for the same period.

Put a rust preventative in it and it won't be a problem. RV antifreeze is basically food grade and includes a rust preventative. Rural King has it on sale at the moment for $1 per gallon. The soap in WW fluid will accomplish the same thing.

 

[widefat]

There comes a time when mud or crud gets jammed in at the rim flange. There are many situations that will damage or destroy the valve. Punctures happen. Tires are damaged or wear out. In some situations you would like the tractor to be lighter or heavier.

All trivial with water fill.​

Very True. I ran over a buried 1" pipe, it kicked up and sheared off the rear valve stem. Very easy to refill the tire with WWF myself after it was repaired.

 

[fruitcakesa]

When I bought my 2009 Kubota - it came from the dealer with RimGuard. First time I checked the rear tire pressure - got sprayed with RimGuard. Thought that flashed thru my mind - My God, what have I done to cut myself so bad. Then I got the taste of it in my mouth - sweet, like maple syrup.

I had followed the "standard procedure". Valve stem a 12 'O Clock high - The thing I didn't realize - being thick and syrupy - RimGuard doesn't easily drain out of the stem. Now I shoot a blast of air into the stem first and blow any back into the tire. Works like a champ.

However - it's been more than six years since I've actually checked the pressure with a gage. Just drive out on the driveway and make sure the bars make contact for the full width. This equals about 14 to 16 psi.

So that is the trick, I also tried to check tire pressure the same way and filled my tire gauge with sludge
I have not gotten an accurate measurement since I bought the M so I will give your method a try.

 

[1930]

Come to find out today no wheel weights avail for the Kubota L2501 R4 tire/rim combo. Un available from Kubota.

Only avail for the ag split type rim/tire combo

Sucks

 

[MHarryE]

My CUTs have only had wheel weights due to problems if you have a puncture. Nephew’s M105 came with beet juice, first flat spraying the tractor with syrup convinced him to drain the other rear too. I had nothing in my previous M135GX and would have had a mess when I ran a rake tine in a tire as it really sprays unless you notice it quickly and get the puncture down to dump it on the ground. I need the weight on my M7 and it’s got beet juice. Our Farmall M has had CaCl sine new in 46 and is running original rims no problem. It has had several tire changes - pump fluid out, change tire and tube, and pump fluid back in. It has high density but beet juice is the modern product even if flats.

 

[MaineGuy1]

My CUTs have only had wheel weights due to problems if you have a puncture. Nephew’s M105 came with beet juice, first flat spraying the tractor with syrup convinced him to drain the other rear too. I had nothing in my previous M135GX and would have had a mess when I ran a rake tine in a tire as it really sprays unless you notice it quickly and get the puncture down to dump it on the ground. I need the weight on my M7 and it’s got beet juice. Our Farmall M has had CaCl sine new in 46 and is running original rims no problem. It has had several tire changes - pump fluid out, change tire and tube, and pump fluid back in. It has high density but beet juice is the modern product even if flats.

Why wouldn't you just roll your puncture to the top, as tires are only fill 3/4 full with fluid.

 

[TheMan419]

Why wouldn't you just roll your puncture to the top, as tires are only fill 3/4 full with fluid.

Or if they were 100% full that would still limit the loss of fluid.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Squirting.

 

[MHarryE]

Why wouldn't you just roll your puncture to the top, as tires are only fill 3/4 full with fluid.

Because rake tine was on bottom of tire when I stopped for night. Didn’t know it was in tire until next morning when I was walking to tractor and saw it leaning.

 

[mcfarmall]

Because rake tine was on bottom of tire when I stopped for night. Didn’t know it was in tire until next morning when I was walking to tractor and saw it leaning.

Everyone who's watched a cartoon knows you never put a rake on the ground with the tines facing up!

 

[PILOON]

My rears are filled with beet juice.
Last winter I had one rear leak and go semi deflated so I aired it up with highish pressure to get by for a while.

Winter tire service is a costly affair so I put it off while I considered options.

Well I stalled figuring I'd DIY come summer but that was last summer and I have plowed/blown some 25 snow events this winter without touching that leaker.

My only take is that it must have been a valve related 'leak' and that I must have re seated the valve in the process of adding air.
That or one of my binders possibly made contact with the valve and sort of flicked it at every contact and the wheel turned.
Really a mystery to me but a welcomed one to say the least.

Or, does beet juice have 'self sealing characteristics'? or is it the higher air pressure that 'plugs' the leak?

My ultimate 'cure' is to have them foamed, not due to leak but they are badly weather checked (perfect treads) and my size is simply not available anymore.
(and I have done extensive searches)
More frustrating yet is to locate a foaming source as either they never return calls or emails.
Foaming in this neck of the woods simply is not common, web searches always lead me 1/2 way across the country and dozens of phone calls never bring results.

Were I to ship my mounted tires to the few foamers that I did locate I might as well just buy a newer tractor as that cost would be considerable.