Box Scraper Beginners guide to using a box blade

[adt2]

I've got a box blade question:

My tractor came with about a 5' box blade, among other things. There are "teeth" sitting upside-down in slots on the front top side of the unit. Clearly they're just being stored there. When I pull a tooth out, though, I cannot figure how to attach it right-side-up to the box blade. There are three notches cut in the front/leading edge of each tooth "upright" which look like they should engage something, but I can't figure out what. How, exactly, does one mount the teeth to the blade to rip the soil?

 

[jmc]

So just gravity holds them in upside down?

My Woods has teeth like you described and they are retained by separate pieces of steel included with the box blade. Are there any little "nubs" welded to the top of the tooth holder frame component that would accept a lynch pin?

 

[adt2]

Yep, just gravity...

There's no nubs or anything. I'm guessing there were some other pieces supposed to come with the tractor that the seller forgot about.

 

[jmc]

Best if you start a new thread in "Attachments" with a descriptive title like, 'my box blade teeth are falling out'. Add a picture if possible. Someone on here has one just like it and will be glad to help.

 

[bcp]

You put the scarifier in where you want it, with the notch engaged, then drop one of these down behind it so it can't come out of the notch.

5PC LOT-SLOT KEEPER PINS FOR BOX BLADE ROCK/STONE SCARIFIER RIPPER DIGGER SHANK SHANKS

Bruce

 

[CanuckPT]

I volunteered to help some friends who had a hillside excavated last summer to put up a large Shelter Logic structure. The spoils from that were piled beside their driveway.



They wanted the spoils moved to another area of their yard to decrease the slope of a hillside to enable them to safely mow it.



They also had anther area that's been difficult to weed whack that they wanted some of the spoil moved to as well but didn't need to be mow-able.

Here's what I finished yesterday:



I wrapped it up today & gave their driveway a going-over for good measure! A fun weekend of "working" on my tractor! About 7 hours of seat time. I sure learned a lot!

 

[0xbeef]

There is a lot of good info in this thread. Thanks to all who contributed.

 

[Soldier415]

Read this whole thread before using new (to me) tractor and box blade to fix one section of my road. Came out great.



This morning had 35 yards of 3/4" crusher run trucked in to fix another section which was down to the big base stone in places and rutted and washed out. As I wasn't digging a layer up, I had the top link way out so only the back blade was engaging. I think this had the unintended consequence of letting all the fines filter out of the box leaving just the stone. The top layer of the road is now loose stone, unlike the section pictured where when I let the top link out just enough to take the front blade off the ground slightly for the finishing pass. Doing that left a nice mixed layer of stone and fines that was smooth.

 

[Piston]

Looks great Soldier!

For those of you who have box blades with a hinged blade, I tried my box blade with the hinged blade fixed the other day for the first time ever, and it really made it a lot easier to carry a smoother grade by using that rear hinged blade as sort of a gauge wheel in a sense. I think I'll keep it in the fixed position unless I'm trying to dig real deep real often. I liked the additional control it had, but I also like the option of going either way with it.

I was surprised at how different it made the box blade feel.

 

[Bronco82]

Picked up a box blade myself yesterday and a big thank you to all who contributed in this thread. Now I have a better understanding of the THEORY of it, just have to get out there and to the practical.