Texas Dodge
Gold Member
I learned something new today about my BB on smoothing. Don't let the front cutting edge engage. This place is great
Box Scraper Beginners guide to using a box blade
- Thread starter canoetrpr
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chelebelly
New member
I found these videos that helped me a great deal.
wilsonoutdoors.com - Tractor Videos
Check them out. Maybe they will help.
wilsonoutdoors.com - Tractor Videos
Check them out. Maybe they will help.
OP
canoetrpr
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Mike - no insult to intelligence at all. I'm pretty new at pretty much everything there. I'm not terribly handy by nature but this site has helped me along the way. Who knew I'd be installing my own hydraulic remotes or doing my own service!
I like your door stopper idea and I'll poke around to see how it might work for me.
Rob, I too would have thought the back blade would have a way to lock in place. Didn't see it in the manual. I'll take a look again and let you know what I come up with.
Thanks again!
I like your door stopper idea and I'll poke around to see how it might work for me.
Rob, I too would have thought the back blade would have a way to lock in place. Didn't see it in the manual. I'll take a look again and let you know what I come up with.
Thanks again!
OP
canoetrpr
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I re-read Johnk's post and I think I understand what he was trying to say now.
I think he is saying that I can ensure that there is cutting action on the front cutting edge using a combination of:
- 3 PT lift height and
- Top link adjustment.
This will make the rear blade flop around on the ground and be dragged, thus providing the smoothing action.
The difference between this and what one would do with a fixed rear blade is that the full weight of the implement is not on the rear blade (since it hinges and gets out of the way) to provide smoothing action.
I think he is saying that I can ensure that there is cutting action on the front cutting edge using a combination of:
- 3 PT lift height and
- Top link adjustment.
This will make the rear blade flop around on the ground and be dragged, thus providing the smoothing action.
The difference between this and what one would do with a fixed rear blade is that the full weight of the implement is not on the rear blade (since it hinges and gets out of the way) to provide smoothing action.
Texas Dodge
Gold Member
Yeah those brushhogging videos are real goodchelebelly said:
The cameraman is standing entirely too close jmc
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canoetrpr,
I've had both the hinged and fixed rear blade versions and they're very different to use. In general, the hinged are very aggressive in both directions because the other blade is always out of the way. But sometimes you just want to "smear" rather than "cut" and a rigid rear blade lets the two blades interfere with each other enough to do that. Also, you can get the rear blade elevated enough so you can "backdrag" with the front blade going backwards. If that's what you want to do, maybe you could bungee the rear blade completely up without having to hold it rigidly in some intermediate position. I think a rigid rear blade combined with a hydraulic top and tilt might have some advantages over a hinged rear blade. It still wouldn't address one problem we have in S. Indiana- red clay. It seems to pack in the dead space between the two fixed blades and its **** to remove with all those bolts in there.
John
I've had both the hinged and fixed rear blade versions and they're very different to use. In general, the hinged are very aggressive in both directions because the other blade is always out of the way. But sometimes you just want to "smear" rather than "cut" and a rigid rear blade lets the two blades interfere with each other enough to do that. Also, you can get the rear blade elevated enough so you can "backdrag" with the front blade going backwards. If that's what you want to do, maybe you could bungee the rear blade completely up without having to hold it rigidly in some intermediate position. I think a rigid rear blade combined with a hydraulic top and tilt might have some advantages over a hinged rear blade. It still wouldn't address one problem we have in S. Indiana- red clay. It seems to pack in the dead space between the two fixed blades and its **** to remove with all those bolts in there.
John
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canoetrpr
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jmc thanks. As it turns out, I had originally ordered the Woods GB72 - the standard duty model with a fixed rear blade. The dealer ordered in the wrong one for me - the medium duty HB72.
I decided to keep it since it was heavier but sort of regret it now that it sounds like there dosen't seem to be an easy way get the weight of the implement on the ground but not really cut - and just finish grade.
I'm trying to figure out what the point of the hinged read blade is vs the fixed one. You would think that there was some advantage to it since it is on the more expensive model. Confused.
I decided to keep it since it was heavier but sort of regret it now that it sounds like there dosen't seem to be an easy way get the weight of the implement on the ground but not really cut - and just finish grade.
I'm trying to figure out what the point of the hinged read blade is vs the fixed one. You would think that there was some advantage to it since it is on the more expensive model. Confused.
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canoetrpr
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I decided to look at the manual and what the recommend (for both the fixed and hinged models) seems to be quite the oppositte of what we've been discussing so far.
Note that they have covered "Scarfying", "Scraping" and "Backfilling' separately and so by "Leveling" I am assuming they mean finish grading.
LEVELING
1. Raise or remove scarifier shanks.
2. Shorten the top link so the cutting edge clears the
ground.
3. Drive forward with the box blade in this position and
loose material will be leveled.
I imagine they are talking about getting the BB in such position so that only the rear blade not the front one contacts the surface. Similar to what I thought johnk was saying
Note that they have covered "Scarfying", "Scraping" and "Backfilling' separately and so by "Leveling" I am assuming they mean finish grading.
LEVELING
1. Raise or remove scarifier shanks.
2. Shorten the top link so the cutting edge clears the
ground.
3. Drive forward with the box blade in this position and
loose material will be leveled.
I imagine they are talking about getting the BB in such position so that only the rear blade not the front one contacts the surface. Similar to what I thought johnk was saying
MJPetersen
Veteran Member
What they are saying is that you should SHORTEN the top link until the front cutting edge is off the ground ie. the BB is riding on the side plates. That is that it is tipped so far forward that the side plates are carrying the load.
The way that Rob and others have suggested is to lengthen the top link so that the BB is riding on the rear blade.
Mike
The way that Rob and others have suggested is to lengthen the top link so that the BB is riding on the rear blade.
Mike
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canoetrpr
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Mike - yeah I figured thats what they are saying. I will have to experiment to see if doing this still allows the rear blade to contact the ground. If it does not then I don't see how this could possibly result in any fine grading / levelling action.
Figured I would play around a bit and the send them an email if I couldn't figure it out. Someone who designed a hinged blade MUST have thought about how it could be used for levelling without having to fix the hinged blade in place - or provided a way to do it.
Figured I would play around a bit and the send them an email if I couldn't figure it out. Someone who designed a hinged blade MUST have thought about how it could be used for levelling without having to fix the hinged blade in place - or provided a way to do it.
