Belt for 48" deck

[SnowRidge]

But on this spindle there is what I think is called a "keyway shaft"?

How does that come off the spindle shaft?

Do I drive it up out of the slot with a blunt chisle and hammer (to be able to get the twisted old bearing rings off and to put the new bearings on)?

If the key is stuck in the keyway, drive it out with something like a piece of brass stock. Tried to avoid damaging it. If you do, and it becomes unusable, you should be able to find replacement key stock in any decent hardware store, providing it isn't metric, which seems unlikely.

 

[RegL]

" Edit: Lawnsite had another explanation for why spindle assemblies with sealed bearings have grease fittings. It was because professional lawn care people won't buy a mower that doesn't have grease fittings, even if it has sealed bearings. There was also some talk that the mower manufacturers had moved from the more expensive tapered roller bearings to sealed ball bearings, and were loathe to admit it, so they left the grease fittings in place and didn't say anything about the switch.

I understand Scag still uses tapered roller bearings. I wish Power Trac did.
SnowRidge is online now Report Bad Post Reply With Quote "

I've had Scags with grease fittings on the spindle assemblies and found them to be a pain. I have Exmarks with sealed bearings with 1500 - 2000 hrs. with no failures. Some people just don't have faith in newer better technology. I wonder if you could replace the spindle assemblies with commercial type.

 

[SnowRidge]

" Edit: Lawnsite had another explanation for why spindle assemblies with sealed bearings have grease fittings. It was because professional lawn care people won't buy a mower that doesn't have grease fittings, even if it has sealed bearings. There was also some talk that the mower manufacturers had moved from the more expensive tapered roller bearings to sealed ball bearings, and were loathe to admit it, so they left the grease fittings in place and didn't say anything about the switch.

I understand Scag still uses tapered roller bearings. I wish Power Trac did.
SnowRidge is online now Report Bad Post Reply With Quote "

I've had Scags with grease fittings on the spindle assemblies and found them to be a pain. I have Exmarks with sealed bearings with 1500 - 2000 hrs. with no failures. Some people just don't have faith in newer better technology. I wonder if you could replace the spindle assemblies with commercial type.

I have one spare spindle and a complete set of bearings in reserve. Once I put those in, I will probably start looking for commercial quality spindle assemblies, if I have the time. All this stuff takes time, which I don't have a lot of right now.

 

[J_J]

I have posted many post about bearings. I have changed out a great many spindle Assembly's, mainly on Dixie Choppers, and other farm equipment. There is no mystery about bearings, just good old common sense. Most of them have some things in common. A shaft, a bushing on the shaft to help to keep the bearings in place, two bearings, sometimes with a locking collar, and most spindles have a grease fittings, and a nut to tighten the assembly in place. I am thinking the grease fittings are for those people that replace their bearings with open faced bearings, or one sided sealed sealed. These two situations require grease at regular intervals, but try and not over do the grease job. To much grease is bad and will collect dirt and mix it in with the good grease. A lot of the bearings are double sealed. and there is no way to grease them, although some people on TBN say that they insert a needle in the rubber seal and squirt in some grease. When bearings fail, they give little warning. You will hear a high pitched sound, or you will smell hot metal, or feel a vibration. Some times the bearing will wear the spindle housing and make it lop sided, then it's time for a spindle rebuild. The sand here in Florida take a tole on all bearings. If you have a good spindle to measure, you should be able to find some good or better bearings to replace the old ones. Think about what you want to do. If you do not want to grease, install sealed bearings. If you want the option to grease, then, I would suggest single sealed bearings, and install them so that the open side face each other with a sleeve in between them. Then you can lube them at your discretion. It is amazing that some bearings will last forever.

One method to detect early bearing failure is to use one of those infrared heat detectors, and measure the temp on a new spindle assembly and record the temp, and use that as your baseline. Then on a regular basics, take more readings to compare the difference. If you want to go high tech, you can use one of those infrared cameras to detect hot spots.

 

[SnowRidge]

I have posted many post about bearings. I have changed out a great many spindle Assembly's, mainly on Dixie Choppers, and other farm equipment. There is no mystery about bearings, just good old common sense. Most of them have some things in common. A shaft, a bushing on the shaft to help to keep the bearings in place, two bearings, sometimes with a locking collar, and most spindles have a grease fittings, and a nut to tighten the assembly in place. I am thinking the grease fittings are for those people that replace their bearings with open faced bearings, or one sided sealed sealed. These two situations require grease at regular intervals, but try and not over do the grease job. To much grease is bad and will collect dirt and mix it in with the good grease. A lot of the bearings are double sealed. and there is no way to grease them, although some people on TBN say that they insert a needle in the rubber seal and squirt in some grease. When bearings fail, they give little warning. You will hear a high pitched sound, or you will smell hot metal, or feel a vibration. Some times the bearing will wear the spindle housing and make it lop sided, then it's time for a spindle rebuild. The sand here in Florida take a tole on all bearings. If you have a good spindle to measure, you should be able to find some good or better bearings to replace the old ones. Think about what you want to do. If you do not want to grease, install sealed bearings. If you want the option to grease, then, I would suggest single sealed bearings, and install them so that the open side face each other with a sleeve in between them. Then you can lube them at your discretion. It is amazing that some bearings will last forever.

One method to detect early bearing failure is to use one of those infrared heat detectors, and measure the temp on a new spindle assembly and record the temp, and use that as your baseline. Then on a regular basics, take more readings to compare the difference. If you want to go high tech, you can use one of those infrared cameras to detect hot spots.

The bearings in my finish mower are double sealed, yet PT insists they be greased every 8 hours. Most everybody here with a PT-425 or smaller and a finish mower greases his mower bearings. Some people do it every time they mow.

The last item in Power Trac's FAQ-Service reads,

"Why are the bearings failing on the mower deck?

The bearings may not be greased properly- they must be greased at least every 8 hours, or you may not be using the right type of grease- a high-temperature, high-speed grease is recommended. Also check the belt on the mower to be sure it is tensioned properly."

The above statement is why I was so surprised to find sealed bearings in my finish mower.

 

[J_J]

The bearings in my finish mower are double sealed, yet PT insists they be greased every 8 hours. Most everybody here with a PT-425 or smaller and a finish mower greases his mower bearings. Some people do it every time they mow.

The last item in Power Trac's FAQ-Service reads,

"Why are the bearings failing on the mower deck?

The bearings may not be greased properly- they must be greased at least every 8 hours, or you may not be using the right type of grease- a high-temperature, high-speed grease is recommended. Also check the belt on the mower to be sure it is tensioned properly."

The above statement is why I was so surprised to find sealed bearings in my finish mower.

That statement is probably left over from the earlier use of the other style bearings.

 

[KentT]

That statement is probably left over from the earlier use of the other style bearings.

I agree JJ, the only reason to grease the arbors that use sealed-bearings is to prevent dampness and condensation inside the arbor, which will cause rust. The bearings themselves aren't greasable...

However, I don't have a clue whether mine are sealed or not, and will continue to give them a squirt of grease every few hours...

 

[SnowRidge]

That statement is probably left over from the earlier use of the other style bearings.

Perhaps, but they were handing that advice out when we bought our machine at the factory. AFAIK, they are still giving it to anyone who buys a finish mower. I can't recall anyone who has posted that he was told he didn't have to grease it because it had sealed bearings, or that it should be greased carefully.

Some people are using pneumatic grease guns. I'll bet they're not kind to the seals on those bearings.

 

[J_J]

I agree JJ, the only reason to grease the arbors that use sealed-bearings is to prevent dampness and condensation inside the arbor, which will cause rust. The bearings themselves aren't greasable...

However, I don't have a clue whether mine are sealed or not, and will continue to give them a squirt of grease every few hours...

You could probably call Keith at PT parts and ask him to eyeball that bearing and tell you what it is.

 

[J_J]

Perhaps, but they were handing that advice out when we bought our machine at the factory. AFAIK, they are still giving it to anyone who buys a finish mower. I can't recall anyone who has posted that he was told he didn't have to grease it because it had sealed bearings, or that it should be greased carefully.

Some people are using pneumatic grease guns. I'll bet they're not kind to the seals on those bearings.

I don't think the factory will tell you not to grease, because that would make them liable. If you ask any bearing supplier, they will probably tell you that over greasing causes a lot of bearing failures. People that grease new sealed bearings, are probably just pushing grease in there because someone said to. On sealed bearings that have some wear, a little grease might help. If the grease comes by the bearing, and you can see it, most people are satisfied. The grease could be coming from between the bearing perimeter and the spindle wall. The inside sleeve on the shaft has to fit correctly so you do not put to much force on the two bearings. When reinstalling the spindle assembly, pay attention to the two sides of the bearing. One side may be larger, for instance to install the locking ring.