CliffordK
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2013
- Messages
- 1,937
- Location
- Eugene, Oregon
- Tractor
- Toro D200, Ford 1715, International 884,
I really don't mess with those side link bars. A little slop is always good to get the 3 point on and off (using the Heim joints, not a quick hitch).
Watching my flail mower, it will dance around a bit with turning.
My guess is even a slight course correction puts quite a bit of pull on those link bars with the box blade.
A little more slop in the link bars might help, but it likely will still bottom out, so with a right turn, it transfers the force to the left link bar. Now, the 3 pt may also hit the tractor frame before hitting the tires, but that may not be a consistent stop.
I think your best bet is to redesign your hitch pin to squeeze both halves of the hitch, either by using a bolt, or adjusting it so the lynch pin is tight against the bar. The bolt is sounding like a better choice.
Either that or reinforcing the bar.
Watching my flail mower, it will dance around a bit with turning.
My guess is even a slight course correction puts quite a bit of pull on those link bars with the box blade.
A little more slop in the link bars might help, but it likely will still bottom out, so with a right turn, it transfers the force to the left link bar. Now, the 3 pt may also hit the tractor frame before hitting the tires, but that may not be a consistent stop.
I think your best bet is to redesign your hitch pin to squeeze both halves of the hitch, either by using a bolt, or adjusting it so the lynch pin is tight against the bar. The bolt is sounding like a better choice.
Either that or reinforcing the bar.