Benefits of block heater even if engine start without one

[Looking4new]

I am backed into the shelter and the door is always open. Exhaust exits to the front of the tractor and straight out the door.

 

[3930dave]

All of mine will start w/o being pluged in... but I agree with the pre-warmed start up line of thinking. And getting a little heat a little sooner is nice. Not that I ever get too warm in the 3 miles/7-8 minutes drive to work!

Once I got a Scangauge on my 7.3, I found that it takes at least 20 km (12 miles) of continuous driving to get oil temperature up in Winter.

Made a winter grill cover out of cold-crack vinyl (what's used on skidoo seats) for the 7.3; it helps on warmup, and keeps much of the salt spray out of the rad. I just have to remember it's on there :fire: , come Spring.

Rgds, D.

 

[BarnieTrk]

Turn the blower on.

The hydraulic oil circulating will warm up ALL the oil rather than just the oil running in the pump.

I do the same thing, I just forgot it in my post.

I guess I didn't make myself clear -- I don't have a snow blower unit; so I wasn't sure if you had hydraulic hoses powering some controls AND the PTO driving the blower auger or just what.

What I was referring to was just spinning the PTO tail shaft at the rear of the tractor. So there wouldn't be any hydraulic hoses circulating any fluid. Now I realize there would be little-to-no load on the PTO system, as it would just be turning the tail shaft spud. No biggie......

BarnieTrk

 

[grm61]

I have always used a electric space heater or torpedo heater to warm equipment up in unheated sheds for about one hour before start. Does help it start better in the sence of no smoke and sputtering, but was wondering if it was worth all the hassle of running the cords and getting things set up to pre warm and also the cost of running space heater or torpedo heater for that hour. I use equipment just about everyday so I have to pre warm alot if I am going to do it. All the equipment will start down to 15 f without prewarming.

So I guess it will save wear and tear. Is it worth it though. Lots of cost and hassle for as much as I do it.

Sometimes equipment is left on log landings with no electric near by also.

I have thought about putting lower radiator hose heaters in. That might take some of the hassle away, but dont they draw a bit of electric?

Still dont have my mind made up if pre warming is worth it.

My opinion...pre heating is defiantly easier on the machine, however running a good synthetic oil of the proper viscosity I think is most important in cold weather.
I run 5/40 Rotella T6 synthetic year round, this oil flows very well in cold temps, there is a huge difference when compared to 15/40 dino syrup/honey in cold weather.

My tractor fires right up, and runs smooth, it does not crank hard, you can tell the motor is not laboring to pump the oil..the oil gets where it needs to go in a hurry, I think this is important.

 

[BarnieTrk]

My opinion... running a good synthetic oil of the proper viscosity I think is most important in cold weather. I run 5/40 Rotella T6 synthetic year round, this oil flows very well in cold temps, there is a huge difference when compared to 15/40 dino syrup/honey in cold weather.

GRM61,

I agree there is noticeable difference between dino-based and synthetic-based oils when its cold.
Does your Owner's Manual say it's OK to use 5/40 Rotella T6 synthetic motor oil in your DK45SE HST Cab Kioti tractor?

BarnieTrk

 

[grm61]

GRM61,

I agree there is noticeable difference between dino-based and synthetic-based oils when its cold.
Does your Owner's Manual say it's OK to use 5/40 Rotella T6 synthetic motor oil in your DK45SE HST Cab Kioti tractor?

BarnieTrk

No, it does not list it, I think the material is dated in the book, oils have come along way.
It says API Service classification CC or CD Above 77F SAE 30, 10/30 or 10/40

32 to 77F SAE20, 10/30 or 10/40

Below 32f SAE10,10/30 or 10/40

I'm not worried about using the 5/40 Rotella T6 synthetci..It is my opinion that it is a better oil than any of the dino oils listed above, my motor sounds happy, and starts very well in cold weather.

I've been running it since my first oil change at 52 hours, no oil usage or leakage...it likes it..:thumbsup:

Another member on here DK35Vince has been running it since his first change last report he had 1900+ hours on his machine, his machine does not use any oil.

I don't think we will do any harm by putting a better oil in than what the manual calls for.

Hope this helps.

 

[BarnieTrk]

I am not disputing your assessment that the 5W-40 syn oil is just as good as the listed dino juice.

I only mention it for the sake of the Warranty......

BarnieTrk :cool2:

 

[grm61]

I am not disputing your assessment that the 5W-40 syn oil is just as good as the listed dino juice.

I only mention it for the sake of the Warranty......

BarnieTrk :cool2:

I here ya, I'm not a oil guru, but the API certification for the Rotella T6 Synthetic is CJ-4, I believe this supersedes the older CC CD classifications...in my mind this is better...so i'm not going to worry about the warrantee, I wouldn't think you would be penalized for using better oil but who knows

Also I'm going to add that the tractor with the Rotella T6 synthetic cranks easier, and starts faster, than the gas rigs around here that have 10-30 dino oil in them when the temps are near 0 degrees F, and exhibits less drama...about 2 revolutions and she's running.

 

[BarnieTrk]

I here ya, I'm not a oil guru, but the API certification for the Rotella T6 Synthetic is CJ-4, I believe this supersedes the older CC CD classifications...in my mind this is better...so i'm not going to worry about the warrantee, I wouldn't think you would be penalized for using better oil but who knows

I agree 105%! :drink:

BarnieTrk :cool2:

 

[grm61]

I agree 105%! :drink:

BarnieTrk :cool2:

Roger! :drink: