Bent 3pt arm...

[Hoeman00]

How about hammering or using press to straighten it then
weld 1/2 x 2" strap on bottom of arm to create an up-side-down T.
This will help keep from bending.
What are u using for a shear pin in the blade?
U may have to go to something w/ less resistance.

 

[rlk]

I'm not sure I would add additional support to the arm. If you make the arm too strong, then something else may break. The force exerted on the arm has to go somewhere. If the arm bends, hopefully that is not too expensive to repair or replace. If the arm does not bend, then something further up the line may bend or break that could be much more expensive to repair. In the picture I can't see what the arm attaches to, but assume for a minute you strengthen the arm and whatever the arm attaches to breaks. Would that be more or less expensive to repair?

If it were mine, I would either straighten or replace the arm and let it be.

 

[Hoeman00]

That's why I would put a lesser strength shear pin in the blade
so it breaks instead.

 

[Rowski]

Thanx for all the input.

Let me say that I'm not faulting anything other than myself. The snow that I was pushing at the time of the bend was loose snow that I had broken up with the loader and toothbar. There happened to be some that wasn't and I caught the outer most edge of the blade. After thinking about the happenings I came to this conclusion. As I was pushing through the loose snow the blade caught. Knowing as with most any kind of pushing or pulling once you start to spin you lighten the resistance, lifting the implement or FEL. This is what I did and do on a regular basis. My proplem was I moved the position control lever all the way up instead of just a little bit and if that didn't work push in the clutch. I didn't do that .That is where it happened. I have moved snow in this manner (widening roads) for 2 winters and have pushed a lot harder with the blade than I did the day the draft link bent. But it bent becuse the load was not centered and I tried to lift the blade to full height during the off center load. I continued to use the blade for a few more hours pushing snow and nothing else bent but I didn't catch an off center load either.

As far as strengthening the arm, I will not do that. I believe something needs to give I would rather have a arm bend than break a housing. I might retro fit the turn buckle adjuster to a slide type. It is a pain to tighten the jam nut and the slide type would be better and quicker for that anyway. I don't think that it is right to say 3pt are not designed to push. I agree that the first design was to pull. I can't find anything that states you should not push with the 3pt. The manual for the blade doesn't say anything. There are other implements that need to be pushed, like snowblowers, blades, rakes, scoops and maybe others that I don't know about. I will say that one would need to use common sense when doing something with an implement.

I use chains and loaded rear tires. The tires I did not load for traction but more for ballast. The added traction is a bonus, for me anyways. The chains I use are very basic simple chains, same as the duo-grip without the v-bar. I need these due to ice and very hard packed snow. Also some of these driveways are pretty steep and icey. With out chains you would not go up hill at all even without pulling or pushing a load.

I have not fixed it yet. I'm busy with other stuff at work. But hope to have it done by this weekend, hopefully. I plan on using a press.

Thanx for all the comments and suggestions.

 

[JimMc]

I think you'll be able to press it right out and be up and running quickly. Probably take longer to take the arm off and put it back on than to fix. Glad to see you're not letting it keep you from getting your work done.

 

[Allis4wdowner]

I did the exact same thing Hoeman00 is talking about. I bent mine twice and decided to do something about it since I didnt want to bend again with less force. Since ive done it. Havent bent it yet. While I was doing it of course I went ahead and did both at the same time. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Also it looks cool even though I try not to push into a pile of dirt as hard ect /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[ewoss3]

While having a boo boo is not fun, you are not looking at the bright side of this situation. Now you have a reason to purchase a new shop press. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I bent my lift arm soon after purchasing my Kubota, it took about 5 minutes to staighten it on a shop press.

 

[jinman]

Derek, the old method of adding a stabilizer bar is probably a little stronger than the new method of stabilizer slide/chain attachment. It's a pain, but the long bar extends all the way to the pin on the implement and shares the load more fully than the new (much easier to use) style. Having said that, I've broken and bent plenty of the old style stabilizers and lift arms on my Ford Jubilee. Luckily for the Jubilee, I can buy a replacement lift arm at TSC for around $40.

Also, I bent one of my lift arms on my Boomer, but it was curved down and New Holland replaced it because the metal had been discovered to be too soft. I don't think that's the problem you have.

 

[Rowski]

Got it all straightened out. Came out very easy. The arm did need to get pressed past straight because the steel would try to bend back to its bent state. I knew this was going to happen but wasn't a problem. As seen by the attachment a block of wood under each end and it was done.


Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I will look into getting the slide type adjusters next time at the dealer. Or possibley make my own.