bent frame on rotary mower

[MESSMAKER]

I am not sure when I did it as I have not done anything rough that I remember but I have twisted the A arms on the three point attachment on my King Kutter mower. They are not bent a great deal but it moves my top attachment point forward about 2". That cost me about a foot or more in lift ant the tail of the mower. I can't adjust it out with the top link. I have a shackle mount on top so I do have some room for flex. How do I repair this or can I just remove the A-arm and spin it 180 degrees so the twist is facing the tail of the mower?

 

[sweettractors]

I see some cutters that have been heated and bent back into position and then reinforcement pieces inserted where needed and welded. You could also buy a new A-Frame from KK. Ken Sweet

 

[MMagis]

I’m sure every situation is different. I’ve used a come-a-long to bend mine back a couple times. Make sure it’s a heavy duty one or don’t bother. It’s no fun when something lets go.

 

[jayste]

I may be misunderstanding you and this isn't always adviseable BUT this could have been caused be getting into a "dip" and the lack of play (rigid top link) may have caused it. I use a short piece of chain on my brushhog just for that reason. Just remember that by doing this it will allow the tail of the mower to lift with not much to limit it's amount of lift. I've been using a chain for years with not ill effects.

 

[TripleR]

My father in law was very hard on cutters, so he had his heated, bent back into place and reinforced.

 

[clemsonfor]

Heat, beat, then reinforce with angle iron and welding.

 

[teg]

I don't even hook up the top link to the cutting. I just raise up the front end of the cutter when I need to and let the tail wheel hold up the back.

 

[beenthere]

I wouldn't want to have it so I could not pick up the rear of the deck. I put chains from the top of the A back to the rear frame. I then let the deck ride on the rear wheel and adjust the front with the 3 ph. For moving over obstacles or road travel, I lift the 3 ph high and have the chains lift the rear wheel off the ground. This keeps from putting the stress on the top arm.

 

[Ford850]

I am not sure when I did it as I have not done anything rough that I remember but I have twisted the A arms on the three point attachment on my King Kutter mower. They are not bent a great deal but it moves my top attachment point forward about 2". That cost me about a foot or more in lift ant the tail of the mower. I can't adjust it out with the top link. I have a shackle mount on top so I do have some room for flex. How do I repair this or can I just remove the A-arm and spin it 180 degrees so the twist is facing the tail of the mower?

The KK frame is fairly easy to remove, so I'd do as you say and reverse it. That might pull the mower in too close to your rear wheels though, so be careful. I'm not sure how you would have pulled the frame forward, as any binding from backing or in the bottom of dips would push the frame towards the rear. Are you sure you have the lop hinge assembly installed properly?

 

[Soundguy]

I am not sure when I did it as I have not done anything rough that I remember but I have twisted the A arms on the three point attachment on my King Kutter mower. They are not bent a great deal but it moves my top attachment point forward about 2". That cost me about a foot or more in lift ant the tail of the mower. I can't adjust it out with the top link. I have a shackle mount on top so I do have some room for flex. How do I repair this or can I just remove the A-arm and spin it 180 degrees so the twist is facing the tail of the mower?

I think I'd get a bottle jack and chain.. or similar jack.. Ie hi lift farm jack and then start on it.. if it resists.. use a torch on it to help it bend. THEN add some angle iron supports to it to help prevent it from bending again.. either from whatever bent it the first time.. or from bending due to beaing weakend from the repair.

DO check your pto shaft length.. too long a shaft can cause binding and damage to botht he pto and mower frame.

soundguy

 

[MESSMAKER]

The KK frame is fairly easy to remove, so I'd do as you say and reverse it. That might pull the mower in too close to your rear wheels though, so be careful. I'm not sure how you would have pulled the frame forward, as any binding from backing or in the bottom of dips would push the frame towards the rear. Are you sure you have the lop hinge assembly installed properly?

I think it must have been a dip,ditch or something that forced the rear of the cutter up. It seems to have swiveled on the lower arms and pivoted the shackle toward the tractor. When it ran out of movement the braces that hook on the back of the mower drove the bottom link forward. It is still somewhat of a mystery, so could be wrong.

 

[Soundguy]

short toplink, long pto shaft and a rear obstruction could make the top of the a-frame bend towards the tractor as well.

soundguy

 

[Ford tractor]

Your story is an example of why I went with a real MD cutter (woods BB600 in my case). Other brands are similar. Buy by the total weight and that is a decent indication of the strength of the unit. The BB with chains is over 1000#. Hard for even a tractor goof like me to muck it up! Unlike the previous cutters that lasted 2-3 seasons of rocks, roots and saplings...

I would bend the parts back and weld in lots of support metal. If you don't, it will bend again and bend worse (or crack and break). That's what stressed metal does.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I think I am going to flip the mount around. I am thinking it might actually work better with a little more room for the top link. It is just about 7 bolts. Should be easy with air tools.

 

[gauthier]

I use a chain for top link,never would bent it if you'd had a chain on it. And if its now bent,bet you won't even notice it if you went to a chain.

 

[Tractor Beam]

I may be misunderstanding you and this isn't always adviseable BUT this could have been caused be getting into a "dip" and the lack of play (rigid top link) may have caused it. I use a short piece of chain on my brushhog just for that reason. Just remember that by doing this it will allow the tail of the mower to lift with not much to limit it's amount of lift. I've been using a chain for years with not ill effects.

Jay, could you put up a picture to show us?

 

[MESSMAKER]

I use a chain for top link,never would bent it if you'd had a chain on it. And if its now bent,bet you won't even notice it if you went to a chain.

I have thought about a chain but I mow for other people and have to adjust the cutter to suit different needs(vacant lots, back yards or reg. pasture). The top link can keep the front from digging in when you are making a close cut.
I can't see how that would remain with a chain.

 

[jayste]

Jay, could you put up a picture to show us?

Yes sir. I'll look and see if I have one and if not I'll take one.:thumbsup:


BTW, Messmaker, can you post some pics as well? Sure would clear a few things up.

 

[Soundguy]

many mowers have a flexible link installed at the toplink area on the mower so that it has some play.

soundguy

 

[gauthier]

Well,set the mower height with 3 point,basicly the only thing a top link does is lets you pick up mower and keeps mower rear from going down to low,like on a sharp hump,pto shaft might come apart in that situation,and it keeps mower from flipping or rear from raising if front hit a stump or something like that.
Chain will let you pick it up,some,chain will stop rear from going down to low,only thing a chain won't do is stop rear from raising if front hits a stup or corner of hard dirt or something like that.
I mow known ground,rough,but known and this doesn't affect me,cut with it about 5-6 inches high.