Best and worst chainsaw?

[DarkBlack]

Do you have unusual sprocket wear with that 36" bar.
Does it stop in the wood if you get too deep at all?

Anything special done to the 390? Muffler/tune to run that bar?
Skip or full ?

Sounds interesting.

If this is a CS590 (60cc’s) I wouldn’t wouldn’t go larger than 24”. 20” is most reasonable. 36” is way too long for that even with a skip tooth chain.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I find you guys runs very long bars in general, with my 60cc I run a 16'', I find a 20'' bogged down the saw right up. I get that you do what you have too when you are cutting large diameter tree which is rarely my case but still.

 

[DarkBlack]

I find you guys runs very long bars, with my 60cc I run a 16'' I find a 20'' bogged down the saw right up. I get that you do what you have too when you are cutting large diameter tree which is rarely my case but still.

My largest bar is 32”. I only use it when absolutely necessary, and with a skip tooth chain, on my 372xp (71cc). That bar sucks up a lot of hp, and makes the saw really nose heavy and overall heavy. It comes back off ASAP, and the 20” bar goes back on.
It takes everything that performance saw has to run that big bar.

 

[fishhead]

Holy moly,how big are the trees on your trails? More often than not, this is what I use for trail work.

View attachment 1576328

they can be quite big (nw MT), with deadfall having a bit more reach helps too especially on limbing.

 

[fishhead]

I find you guys runs very long bars in general, with my 60cc I run a 16'', I find a 20'' bogged down the saw right up. I get that you do what you have too when you are cutting large diameter tree which is rarely my case but still.

I'm cutting mostly fir and larch so it's easy cutting compared to hardwoods, Also i run full skip so that helps keep the speed up and allows for good chip clearing. With a sharp chain the 67cc 400C cuts fine

 

[BnRidge]

I find you guys runs very long bars in general, with my 60cc I run a 16'', I find a 20'' bogged down the saw right up. I get that you do what you have too when you are cutting large diameter tree which is rarely my case but still.

Sharpening matters a lot. The ms462 here at first cut fantastic new, well balanced power to the chain. I sharpened it once and rendered the saw useless. Too much was taken off the rakers, to the point where I removed that chain and put on new. And of course the saw cut like new again. Watch those depth teeth. Also - skip chain - sometimes when a chain is at the end of it's life, with some teeth missing, huh, oddly productive. Whatever it takes to get the saw back up on it's power curve.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Sharpening matters a lot. The ms462 here at first cut fantastic new, well balanced power to the chain. I sharpened it once and rendered the saw useless. Too much was taken off the rakers, to the point where I removed that chain and put on new. And of course the saw cut like new again. Watch those depth teeth. Also - skip chain - sometimes when a chain is at the end of it's life, with some teeth missing, huh, oddly productive. Whatever it takes to get the saw back up on it's power curve.

Skip tooth might be the way, I've never try but I have no need to to have a 20'' bar, I don't cut 40'' diameter trees everyday ...I grew up with a 70cc so when I got my chainsaw 60cc with a 20'' bar and I wasn't impress by it, I was like this is a 60cc and it feels like a 50cc then I put a 16 inch bar on it and it was much better (higher RPM). My recipe for rackers is 2 files stroke as soon as I put it on then I will periodically file them down as the chains wear down, I will double check with the raker gauge if needed but I can tell when I am cutting with it if they are too file down or not enough.

 

[kenmbz]

I use the 620p regularly on 20-30+ inch trees mostly.
The 24" bar and chain hardly ever bogs down, I sharpen by hand after each use.
20" bar takes too long to cut through these with cuts from both sides.

I switch the 490 between 20" and 18" bar based on what I am cutting. I find the 20" perfect for felling smaller 12-16" trees. 18" for anything smaller. Pole saw for anything under 6"

Neither saw is modded in any way, just tuned properly by my shop, since he does these all the time. I know when to pay for experience.

 

[kozal01]

I find you guys runs very long bars in general, with my 60cc I run a 16'', I find a 20'' bogged down the saw right up. I get that you do what you have too when you are cutting large diameter tree which is rarely my case but still.

I run a 20" on my 50cc Stihl 261, I can bog it in big hardwood if I horse it but overall it handles it just as well at the 18" it had stock. I went with the 20" to save my bad back a bit when bucking.

 

[careyo63]

My Go to saw is a Husqvarna Farm Tough 55. Had it for decades. 1995 era. Old and injury's so I also use a Echo CS-3510 for the smaller limbs and trimming.
Almost 1 Yr. old come Jan.. I was surprised how well it works, starts and cuts. It is really easy to use on small debris. The 55 is Old school and just plain and simple a BA. saw!!. 18" Besides chains I had the shop where the echo was purchased rebuild the Carb. and replace the muffler. Still use the Org. bar. They even complemented it! You could tell when I got it back they didn't miss a lick... Runs and cuts like it was new.