Best and worst chainsaw?

   / Best and worst chainsaw? #21  
620p is 4.5hp 562xp is 4.7 , so there is a difference. But not huge.
I'll have to try a 562 out one of these days as it weighs almost a pound less, but it is more electronics oriented.

When I was shopping the Stihl in the same size class as the 620p was almost double the cost and the Husky about 30% more.
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #22  
You hit a sore spot with this thread. I moved to Northern Florida in 2017, a hurricane hit about two weeks later, and I have been fighting with chainsaws ever since. I received tons of terrible advice, and some came from pros. I suffered a lot and wasted a lot of money. I finally got some good information, which I will pass on.

I have an ECHO CS-590, and I thought it was a piece of junk until I got this information. You have to know what you're doing to make this saw work, but once you know, it's a great saw and a real bargain. It has a metal case, which is unusual in a Home-Depot-grade saw.

First off, when you are not using your saw, fill the carb with motor oil. This is the secret no one seems to know. Modern gas is garbage even when it has no ethanol in it. It will clog your saw and harden the diaphragm. Oil will prevent this. Running it dry probably will not work. I have run saws dry and had them clog anyway. I'm talking about saws that may sit for months, not saws that sit for two weeks. It's not the same.

Second, use ethanol-free gas because, while it's still bad, it's much better than ethanol gas. Any gas you buy at the pump can turn into varnish, but adding alcohol and water makes things worse.

Third, when you get your gas and mix and treat it, use a Sharpie to put the date on the gas can. When you're two months past the date, pour the gas out and get new gas.

Fourth, if you can't drain your saw, use Biobor EB to treat your gas. Do not use Sta-bil red, which only works for equipment that never moves. Biobor EB will extend the time it takes gas to ruin your carburetor.

Fifth, don't listen to idiots when they tell you how to start a saw. Here's what to do:

A. Make very sure your ignition is on before you try to start the saw. In fact, leave it on all the time, because if you don't, you will forget to turn it on, and you will flood the saw. Use the choke to stop the saw. You don't need to shut off the ignition.

B. Pump the daylights out of the purge valve. It's not a primer bulb. It pushes fuel through the carb to get the air out. You can't pump it too much. You will not flood the saw.

C. Pull the choke out even if the saw is warm. If it's warm, push it back in before starting. Pulling the choke out will open the throttle and keep it open so the saw gets gas while you're trying to start it. The throttle will stay open until you pull the trigger.

D. Use the compression release if you have one. It will not prevent the saw from starting, no matter what anyone says.

E. Pull the cord out a couple of inches and then yank as hard as possible to start the saw.

F. Release the brake immediately when the saw starts (so you don't fry it while the saw is revving) and goose the throttle to warm up the saw.

If your saw won't start, the first move is to dump the fuel and start over. If the fuel isn't the problem, the carb is probably clogged.

If you flood the saw, try starting it with the throttle fully engaged.

Heat ruins saws, so keep your chains sharp. A dull saw makes the engine work hard, so the saw gets hotter. A sharp saw makes flakes, not dust. Get a Pferd sharpener. You don't need anything fancy. Takes, literally, 5 minutes to sharpen a saw. Do it once per tank. Make sure you file the rakers when needed.

Consider modifying your exhaust. Some saws have restrictive exhausts.

If your bar has a lube port, use it. Buy a chainsaw grease gun.

If you have a CS-590, change the timing, because it's set wrong at the factory. You can buy and install a part (timing key) for this. You can also put an exhaust deflector on it to open things up and reduce heat. I got great results this way.

You can get a carb for a bigger Echo and install it. A cheap tach will let you tune the carb. Remove the limiter caps from your carb once you know what you're doing. They're there to keep noobs from burning up saws, but you can greatly exceed the factory RPM limit and get better performance if you tune your saw.

Echo doesn't warranty carbs, by the way. This is because carbs are what usually need to be fixed.

You can rebuild an Echo (Walbro) carb in a few minutes with simple tools. This is less aggravation than taking it to a mechanic or cleaning it. Most mechanics are incompetent, and they charge $100 per hour or more. Get a real Echo kit.

I bought an expensive Husqvarna pro saw (562XP) because pro saws start more reliably, and the Echo seems to pull just as well now. Before I fixed the Echo and learned how to use it correctly, it sat in my shop for very long periods because I could not make it run.

Pro saws have electronics in them to make the run better, so this is part of what you pay for when you buy one, in addition to a tougher case and so on. The Husky has this stuff. The Echo does not.

You can also install a different main jet. The one that comes with the Echo has an unnecessary hole in it.

My Echo made me miserable for several years, but now that it's working, I really like it. Because it's made for homeowners, it comes with "features" that cause problems but protect the saw. Once they're gone, it's great.

Best tip of all: do not buy a gas saw unless you really need it. I have a Makita with two 5-Ah batteries, and it will handle 9/10 of the jobs I need a saw for. It always starts. It cuts like crazy. No ear protection. Makita designed it to be easy to use. If you get one of these and 4 batteries, you may never need a gas saw unless you're cutting firewood.

Also, get a battery pole saw. It will handle most jobs a homeowner has to do, and it will keep you away from the cut so you are less likely to drop a branch on your head or be killed by a barber chair. I bought a $99 Kobalt that looks like a toy, and it has been incredible. I also have a gas pole saw, a corded pole saw, and a much sturdier Ego pole saw, so I'm not blowing smoke here.

You can use a pole saw on a ladder, and you can also use it to make cuts above shoulder level. With a chainsaw, those are both activities that land people on operating tables.

Another great tip: get a hard hat with a mesh shield and muffs built in. Amazon sells one made by Oregon, and it's only $40. It's great.

Finally, don't use canned fuel. Some people swear by it, but others have had a lot of problems with it.

I learned all this stuff from years of suffering. Listen to me, or repeat my mistakes.

Oh...also, if you're cutting anything big get a Timberjack. Big help.
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #23  
I don't 'love' my saws or my tractors or anything mechanical. I do love my wife however.

Just tools and nothing more and until you learn how to properly sharpen a chain loop and drop the depth gages correctly, no was will be anything other than a rock. I have a couple Echo's and 2 Stihl's and I prefer the Echo's over the Stihl's except my 45 year old 028.

I have a CS590 I switched from 325 to 404 full tooth chipper and a top handle Echo that is lighter than any Stihl made and costs about 50% as much. I mod my saws as well but only the mufflers and I run canned gas in them always. Presently running Echo Red Armor 50-1 but they are all comparable, VP or Tru-Fuel or Husky canned fuel for that matter.

No corn squeezed e gas ever goes in my saws. ever.

Only saws I'd never buy are the Chinese clones on Amazon. They are cheap and look it.

When I'm cutting, I always carry a spare sharp loop with me and when the pitch starts building on the heel of the cutters, I change them out and clean the bar groove at the same time.

I machine grind my chains, I actually have 2 machine grinders, one for the cutters and the other for the depth gages and I don't use the red stone wheels that need dressing all the time. I use CBN aluminum rimmed wheels that never need dressed.

...and I grind chains for all my arborist customers as well as their chipper knives.

A dull loop can make a good saw a bad saw. Always works that way.
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #24  
Everyone seems to agree about Red Armor.
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #25  
Finally, don't use canned fuel. Some people swear by it, but others have had a lot of problems with it.
Very bad advice, especially if your saws sit for extended periods like mine do...

and a 590 has no primer bulb either.
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #26  
I use canned fuel, no ethanol free in the area.
So far my two current saws, stihl FS110 and Echo hedgetrimmer are all happy.
The 490 and FS110 and trimmer are more than 5 years old now, the 620p on it's third year.

I never let them sit more than a month or so and never put oil in the carb.

My old brush cutter still works, it's 30 years old, it was well used before I got it and I put it through hundreds of hours taking out berry brambles, autumn olive and a big stand of bamboo.
Just broke/replaced too many mechanical parts and it's heavy which is why I bought the FS110 with handle bars.

Quality fuel, good oil, sharp chain tensioned correctly.
Clean the saws after every use and give them a thorough clean after every few hours of use.
Keep the air filter clean and bar free of buildup.


To start the 620p , push in decomp button,choke, pull three times, hit trigger to release choke to fast idle and it starts usually on next pull.
To start 490, choke, pull till it sounds like its starting to catch, then pull trigger to fast idle and usually starts next pull or two.

If I try to start the 620 like the 490, it floods. both saws have the proper start in the manuals
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #27  
Very bad advice, especially if your saws sit for extended periods like mine do...

and a 590 has no primer bulb either.

Do you honestly think I ran this saw for 7 years, modified the timing, put on the deflector, rebuilt and cleaned the carb, and didn't know that? Everyone knows the CS-590 has no purge valve. A lot of saws do have purge valves, so the advice is sound for them.

And there is no such thing as a primer bulb. It's a purge valve. I explained that. Even if a vendor or website calls it a primer, it's a purge valve. A lot of people think they're overpriming their saws when they use the valve correctly, so I gave them the truth.

If you get good results with canned fuel, great, but the advice I gave is foolproof, and a lot of people have had problems with canned fuel. Google around.
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #28  
You hit a sore spot with this thread. I moved to Northern Florida in 2017, a hurricane hit about two weeks later, and I have been fighting with chainsaws ever since. I received tons of terrible advice, and some came from pros. I suffered a lot and wasted a lot of money. I finally got some good information, which I will pass on.

I have an ECHO CS-590, and I thought it was a piece of junk until I got this information. You have to know what you're doing to make this saw work, but once you know, it's a great saw and a real bargain. It has a metal case, which is unusual in a Home-Depot-grade saw.

First off, when you are not using your saw, fill the carb with motor oil. This is the secret no one seems to know. Modern gas is garbage even when it has no ethanol in it. It will clog your saw and harden the diaphragm. Oil will prevent this. Running it dry probably will not work. I have run saws dry and had them clog anyway. I'm talking about saws that may sit for months, not saws that sit for two weeks. It's not the same.

Second, use ethanol-free gas because, while it's still bad, it's much better than ethanol gas. Any gas you buy at the pump can turn into varnish, but adding alcohol and water makes things worse.

Third, when you get your gas and mix and treat it, use a Sharpie to put the date on the gas can. When you're two months past the date, pour the gas out and get new gas.

Fourth, if you can't drain your saw, use Biobor EB to treat your gas. Do not use Sta-bil red, which only works for equipment that never moves. Biobor EB will extend the time it takes gas to ruin your carburetor.

Fifth, don't listen to idiots when they tell you how to start a saw. Here's what to do:

A. Make very sure your ignition is on before you try to start the saw. In fact, leave it on all the time, because if you don't, you will forget to turn it on, and you will flood the saw. Use the choke to stop the saw. You don't need to shut off the ignition.

B. Pump the daylights out of the purge valve. It's not a primer bulb. It pushes fuel through the carb to get the air out. You can't pump it too much. You will not flood the saw.

C. Pull the choke out even if the saw is warm. If it's warm, push it back in before starting. Pulling the choke out will open the throttle and keep it open so the saw gets gas while you're trying to start it. The throttle will stay open until you pull the trigger.

D. Use the compression release if you have one. It will not prevent the saw from starting, no matter what anyone says.

E. Pull the cord out a couple of inches and then yank as hard as possible to start the saw.

F. Release the brake immediately when the saw starts (so you don't fry it while the saw is revving) and goose the throttle to warm up the saw.

If your saw won't start, the first move is to dump the fuel and start over. If the fuel isn't the problem, the carb is probably clogged.

If you flood the saw, try starting it with the throttle fully engaged.

Heat ruins saws, so keep your chains sharp. A dull saw makes the engine work hard, so the saw gets hotter. A sharp saw makes flakes, not dust. Get a Pferd sharpener. You don't need anything fancy. Takes, literally, 5 minutes to sharpen a saw. Do it once per tank. Make sure you file the rakers when needed.

Consider modifying your exhaust. Some saws have restrictive exhausts.

If your bar has a lube port, use it. Buy a chainsaw grease gun.

If you have a CS-590, change the timing, because it's set wrong at the factory. You can buy and install a part (timing key) for this. You can also put an exhaust deflector on it to open things up and reduce heat. I got great results this way.

You can get a carb for a bigger Echo and install it. A cheap tach will let you tune the carb. Remove the limiter caps from your carb once you know what you're doing. They're there to keep noobs from burning up saws, but you can greatly exceed the factory RPM limit and get better performance if you tune your saw.

Echo doesn't warranty carbs, by the way. This is because carbs are what usually need to be fixed.

You can rebuild an Echo (Walbro) carb in a few minutes with simple tools. This is less aggravation than taking it to a mechanic or cleaning it. Most mechanics are incompetent, and they charge $100 per hour or more. Get a real Echo kit.

I bought an expensive Husqvarna pro saw (562XP) because pro saws start more reliably, and the Echo seems to pull just as well now. Before I fixed the Echo and learned how to use it correctly, it sat in my shop for very long periods because I could not make it run.

Pro saws have electronics in them to make the run better, so this is part of what you pay for when you buy one, in addition to a tougher case and so on. The Husky has this stuff. The Echo does not.

You can also install a different main jet. The one that comes with the Echo has an unnecessary hole in it.

My Echo made me miserable for several years, but now that it's working, I really like it. Because it's made for homeowners, it comes with "features" that cause problems but protect the saw. Once they're gone, it's great.

Best tip of all: do not buy a gas saw unless you really need it. I have a Makita with two 5-Ah batteries, and it will handle 9/10 of the jobs I need a saw for. It always starts. It cuts like crazy. No ear protection. Makita designed it to be easy to use. If you get one of these and 4 batteries, you may never need a gas saw unless you're cutting firewood.

Also, get a battery pole saw. It will handle most jobs a homeowner has to do, and it will keep you away from the cut so you are less likely to drop a branch on your head or be killed by a barber chair. I bought a $99 Kobalt that looks like a toy, and it has been incredible. I also have a gas pole saw, a corded pole saw, and a much sturdier Ego pole saw, so I'm not blowing smoke here.

You can use a pole saw on a ladder, and you can also use it to make cuts above shoulder level. With a chainsaw, those are both activities that land people on operating tables.

Another great tip: get a hard hat with a mesh shield and muffs built in. Amazon sells one made by Oregon, and it's only $40. It's great.

Finally, don't use canned fuel. Some people swear by it, but others have had a lot of problems with it.

I learned all this stuff from years of suffering. Listen to me, or repeat my mistakes.

Oh...also, if you're cutting anything big get a Timberjack. Big help.

I don't think this is good advice.

Oil in the carb?
No canned fuel?
Pull the choke to open the throttle? Carbs have a throttle plate and a choke plate, guess which one controls the idle?
When flooded dump the gas? What about the wet spark plug?
Never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever use a chainsaw or pole saw off a ladder.

Not all advice is good advice.
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #29  
I'm partial to Husqvarna saws, but many like their Stihls, and I'm sure Echo, etc. All are competitive with each other when comparing comparable models from these brands. My dad likes his Dolmar more than his Stihls and Husqvarnas. The Dolmar is a nice saw. Makita bought them, so the new Dolmars are branded Makita. The Makita 7900 (Dolmar 7910 if I'm not mistaken) is a 80cc saw the size and weight of a 70cc saw. It's a very highly thought of saw from the people who own them. Basically the size of a 372XP (my favorite all around saw) but with an extra 10cc or there abouts, and a little more power. You'll probably be happy with the right model from any pro brand, but I'd recommend looking at a Makita 7900 before buying. It's a saw I might pick up at some point.
 
   / Best and worst chainsaw? #30  
In my younger days, I chased horsepower - starting with a Stihl 041 Farm Boss. I later learned to love modded saws and or ported mufflers = Husqvarna 357XP (a really nice saw) and a 372XP.

As I entered my "golden" years, lighter weight became more attractive. I still like modded saws, so my new go to saw is a modded Echo CS4910. It cuts like a demon. And, I treated my self to a 5.2 lb Echo CS-2511TN. It cuts way better than it should and will be getting a modded muffler once it's broken in.

My favorite old school saw was a Homelite Super EZ. Light and powerful.

 

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