Fields_mj
Silver Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2021
- Messages
- 118
- Location
- Central Indiana
- Tractor
- Ford 1710, Kubota F2880, White FB16
Skip tooth has half the cutters that a normal (full complement or full comp) chain has. Semi skip is in between. Basically, a full comp chain has 1 cutter for every 2 drive links, a semi skip has a cutter for every 3 drive links, and a full skip has a cutter for every 4 drive links.I have had the same Stihl Farmboss saw for about 30 year. It has had to have a couple trips to the shop for tuneups and minor repairs, mainly to the fuel lines because they tend to break down over time. My expaierience is that it is not so much the saw as the chain you use. I bought a couple of "consumer grade" safe chains that would burn through a log faster than cutting it. A logger friend told me to go to a pro shop and ask for what he called a "skip tooth" chain. He said I would have to be careful or it would tear me up, but it cut through the same logs extremely fast and smoothly. Also, keep your chain sharp. Like a dull knife, a dull chain is much harder to deal with.
I think what you are talking about is full chisel chain. The cutter on a full chisel chain comes to an actual point. The leading edge on a safety chain forms a curve as it transitions from the gullet (side plate) to the top plate. Semi chisel is very similar to a full chisel but it has a slight radius instead of a point. Full chisel is the most aggressive. There are all kinds of videos showing that it's no faster than a semi-chisel chain, but those folks don't know how to correctly sharpen a full chisel chain. Properly sharpened, a full chisel chain is noticeably faster. Having said that, it also dulls faster than a semi chisel chain, and as soon as it starts to get dull, its advantage goes away. That means A) ALWAYS keep it out of the dirt and B) Sharpen it every time you fill up the tank with fuel. The sharp point that makes the chain cut faster also makes it a LOT more "grabby" meaning that it will kick back on you a lot more than other chains. It also pulls itself into the wood more, so don't lean on the saw when its cutting. Let the saw and chain do the work, and for crying out loud KEEP BOTH HANDS ON THE SAW AT ALL TIMES. If you don't know why, then you don't have enough experience to know when either.
If you're cutting wood that has a lot of dirt in the bark (from skidding it, or wind blown into it), or if you don't sharpen after every tank of fuel, or if you take your chains to the dealer to be sharpened on a grinder (ugh, that's a painful thought), then semi-chisel is probably better for you. The initial contact area is spread out a little more than it is on a full chisel chain, so it doesn't wear quite as fast and can last a little longer between sharpenings (2 to 3 tanks of fuel max). Actual safety chain is a waste of time and $$ in my opinion.
Odds are, if you think your saw cuts slow, its because your chain isn't actually sharp, or hasn't been sharpened correctly. The advantage of a pro saw can quickly be erased by a chain that's not as sharp as it could be.