Best Attachment for Round Pen Softening - HELP?
- Thread starter tractorless
- Start date
- Views: 6397
soggybottom
Member
I live in Az where the dirt has similar characteristics, very tough. I maintain several arenas in my area, I have a heavy gannon box blade, turn your top link all the way in to make scarifiers penetrate with the full weight of the box, next, turn very sharply in a swirling action all over pen. Next, retract scarifiers and make top link long and backdrag to finish. Adding some weight during scarifying will help.
Something must have gotten screwed up with my original link. I think the correct link to the Arena Rascal from Absolute Innovations is Arena Rascal
JackIL
JackIL
_RaT_
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2000
- Messages
- 5,813
- Location
- Peoples Republic of Northern CA.
- Tractor
- Kioti 3510-SE HST
There you go, I thought I remembered that rake.
soggybottom
Member
That arena rascal is real nice if you already have relitively soft dirt. If it don't weigh at least 500 lbs it will bounce off concrete like dirt till the teeth are wore flat. There are two 5 footers now on ebay for just $1495 each! Tractorless, another thing you can try before engaging is to run a lawn sprinkler in the arena for an hr or 2. If you have no other use for a box blade, get a middle buster, its a one shank 3 pt. attachment, cheap, or a 4 ft. box blade is under 300 bucks, remove 2 scarifiers, that will be less resistance for the other 2 to penetrate. If you have a dirt driveway the box blade will be your favorate tool.
cowboydoc
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2000
- Messages
- 6,725
- Tractor
- JD 8320 MFWD, JD 6415 MFWD, FEL, and cab, John Deere MFWD 4600, John Deere 4020, John Deere 4430, John Deere 455 mower, Deutz, and Gehl 4610 perkins skidsteer
Just my opinion but no way would I use a boxblade. The scarifers on a boxblade are 12-18" apart. With that much space you are are not going to get the dirt worked up evenly. If you are truly using a roundpen and doing stops, turn arounds etc. you need a good base. Without a good base your risk for injury to your horses goes up significantly. If you really care about your horses and their well being get a good surface put in with a solid base and then maintain it with the proper tool. Think of it in your house if you were constantly walking on lumps in your carpet and other surfaces. It wouldn't take long for you to become uncomfortable, twist an ankle, get bad feet, etc. It's the same with the horse. Treat them right.
OP
tractorless
New member
Will a B7510 (21hp) handle a 5' box blade? I think this is the simplest and less expensive way to get the results I need.
I may even drag tire chains over the ground after I loosen up the dirt to get that $3k TR3 look.
And yes I care for my horses, but they are only Mustangs for ranch/trail. No high end animals. I figure if they ran wild over Wyoming for years, my sandy loam round pen is not going to ruin them.
I see more people with higher end horses that baby their horses have more problems than any of us that just feed an ride them under no special conditions.
I may even drag tire chains over the ground after I loosen up the dirt to get that $3k TR3 look.
And yes I care for my horses, but they are only Mustangs for ranch/trail. No high end animals. I figure if they ran wild over Wyoming for years, my sandy loam round pen is not going to ruin them.
I see more people with higher end horses that baby their horses have more problems than any of us that just feed an ride them under no special conditions.
soggybottom
Member
Tractorless,
I had a 5 footer on a L2500 kubota 25 hp and it did fine. Inside your arena it'll need the max weight that it will handle anyway. Shop around for what ever you can afford, its only a simple metal structure and is easy to reweld, I beat the crap out of the 3 I have owned, pushing and pulling stumps,trees and all sorts deep rooted desert bush, only repairs I ever made was welding a cheap peice of steel on the cutting edge, to cheap to buy a $75 bolt on edge. Remember what I said about wetting it down or do it after a rain.
Cowboydoc,
I know what you say is true in most cases but when tractorless mentioned concrete like dirt it sounded just like here in az. as you constantly ride over the area to pulverise, the base repacs under the tires, All my horse customers are quite happy with the results, The more affulant will spring for a 2-3" lift of sand. You would not beleive the wear on the ground engaging implements here. I weld on new teeth on my post holer about every 50 holes!
I had a 5 footer on a L2500 kubota 25 hp and it did fine. Inside your arena it'll need the max weight that it will handle anyway. Shop around for what ever you can afford, its only a simple metal structure and is easy to reweld, I beat the crap out of the 3 I have owned, pushing and pulling stumps,trees and all sorts deep rooted desert bush, only repairs I ever made was welding a cheap peice of steel on the cutting edge, to cheap to buy a $75 bolt on edge. Remember what I said about wetting it down or do it after a rain.
Cowboydoc,
I know what you say is true in most cases but when tractorless mentioned concrete like dirt it sounded just like here in az. as you constantly ride over the area to pulverise, the base repacs under the tires, All my horse customers are quite happy with the results, The more affulant will spring for a 2-3" lift of sand. You would not beleive the wear on the ground engaging implements here. I weld on new teeth on my post holer about every 50 holes!
