best chainsaw?

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> Once I start that I will no doubt dull several chains in a day. Stopping to file in the woods is time consumeing. My property is 4.5 hours away so many days I wind up driveing 9 hours and working 5-6. I dont want to loose any work time. </font>

Dave
You need more chainsaws not chains. Then you can just start another one up when the first one becomes dull. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[powerstroke2000]

That is why I got 4 saws for just fill them all up with a sharp chain then head for the wood when one goes dull or runs out of gas just get another /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[5030]

Dave:

I used to buy my chain in bulk rolls. That's why I use 0.404 chipper chain. Now I get "loops". Bulk chain is pretty cheap and it's easy to spin in rivets to make loops.

As far as chain, the name on the side plate is pretty generic. I also use Oregon chain.

One exception is a new chain on the market. A manufacturer is making "carbide" tooth chain. With carbide teeth, you don't have to worry too much about hitting a nail and the occasional dirt shot isn't detrimental either, at least not to the chain itself. The drive sprocket and roller nose is another story. The carbide chain is very expensive.

One thing I didn't add to my list of do's and do -nots is:

It's time to file a chain when you observe wood pitch building up on the top surface of the tooth, just behind the cutting edge.

 

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> It's time to file a chain when you observe wood pitch building up on the top surface of the tooth, just behind the cutting edge. </font>

Daryl

I'll have to look for that next time I use my saw.

Since I have a chain grinder. I watch for the chips to start showing signs of sawdust instead of chips.

I have kept the chains sharp by just removing only the amount of teeth that is needed to sharpen it.

When time allows I use a fine stone to remove the burr that grinding creates.

When I bought my 031. I bought 4 STIHL chains. I'm still using those same chains and bar. For the first 20 years that I lived at my home we heated with wood. I would fill the woodbin in the barn that is 14’ X 24’ X 7’ high every year.

Your advise about turning the bar every time the chain is changed helps a lot.

I always use STIHL oil to mix with gas. It has an additive that stops the gas from going bad.

Checked the sales receipt stapled into the back of the manual. I bought the saw in March of 1977 for $239.

 

[Docsknotinn]

yeah I could use a bigger saw for select work. My wish list is a mile and a half long and for right now chain is a lot cheaper than another saw. I need to sell the modified fun buggy to get a Diesel mule to carry the extra saw, A garage to put the mule in, A cabin to sleep in and a bigger tractor to boot. YES, I bought 5 lotto tickets last night /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Dave

 

[bebster]

I have had great success with Stihl brand for reliability. Have a 16" bar (probably a little short, but didn't know better when I bought it). After looking at it for at least a year, finally broke down and bought the 075 pruning saw, and am glad I did. Although it's just a 14" bar, and a bit low on power, I've used it just fine on 6" diameter trees. Having the chain 8' away is very comforting, and now I use this saw whenever I can do the job with it. It really makes easy cleaning up of branches up to 12' off the ground (which makes for great tractor clearance around the trees).

 

[paco]

I bought a stihl 028 in 1988 for home use, it's been a great saw, paid $299 for it. I just recently bought a husky 395 and so far I love it, paid $865.

 

[Slamfire]

Wow a new bar with every chain! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I much prefer a new bar every three chains, but then I keep the slot cleaned out and the wear edge honed off.

 

[5030]

Slamfire:

A new bar with every (2) chains. Plus a new drive sprocket. That's the rule of thumb when your business is the tree business.

I never scrimp on bars either. I always use the Stihl Rollmatic roller nose bars and I don't believe in anti-kickback chain. The raker's on that type of chain are not aggressive enough to take advantage of a mid range saws horsepower potential. Use either 0.404 or 0.380 chipper chain and the maximum bar length the manufacturer recommends. You as the operator will have the option of controlling the feed to the point that the saw labors.

 

[gsganzer]

When I used to do logging and arborist work, we used Husky 266's (Not sure if they make them anymore). We put a smaller drive sprocket on them and used 20" bars.

A few things to add to your do's and dont's:

On the bars with the roller sprocket, periodically grease the sprocket. They sell a small grease applicator for this purpose.

Periodically flip the bar and dress the edges with a small flat file to remove any burrs and keeping the rails nice and square. (almost like sharpening a pair of ice skates)

Also, when sharpening, periodically file the rakers down with a flat file. The raker is the small metal tab that follows each cutting tooth. It clears out the chip before the next cutting edge engages the wood. When you file back the cutting edge, the raker will become too tall and prevent the tooth from getting a good bite. About 2 passes with a small flat file is all it takes on the top of each raker. Don't file too much, or the chain will grab too much wood and bog the saw.