best chainsaw?

[5030]

I got to add my 2 cents to this one.

Years and years ago, I owned a tree service in Ohio. We specialized in take downs and grinding stumps.

I had Stihl and Poulan saws, Vermeer stump grinders and Chippmore chippers.

The Poulan saws, especially the small ones suffered from vapor lock when hot started. The big Poulan saws, the ones we used for cutting up downed trunks did not. These saws weren't the kind you buy in a box store. Poulan makes a professional line for the Arborist with the smallest bar length at 25".

The Stihl saws, with the exception of the smallest were all very reliable. In fact, I still have the 075, the 090 and the 028 Farm Boss and I use them today. They are all at least 25 years old and none of them have ever needed parts other than chains, bars, drive sprockets and plugs.

The 075 has a 36" bar and the 090 has a 50" buddy bar. I don't think Stihl makes the 090G any more. It's a killer saw. The 075 and the 090 both have compression releases on them. The 090 is a gear reduction unit.

A few tips as far as chainsaw maintenance and use go...........

1.Wear proper protective clothing (chainsaw chaps and face shields)

2. Always use a good grade of bar oil, not used motor oil. There is a lot of friction produced between the bar and the sliding chain as well as the drive sprocket and the bar nose.

3. Always use the proper mix of 2 stroke oil and fresh gasoline. Chainsaw engines are high revving and require good lubrication.

4. Always check the bar oil reservoir EVERY time you fill the fuel tank.

5. Use a roller nose bar and grease it OFTEN. You can buy disposable greasers with a tapered nose to grease the bar with.

6. Purchase an extra loop of chain and when the chain gets dull, change it out. When you change it out, TURN THE BAR OVER. The bar gets most of it's wear on the lower surface and by turning the bar over, the bar will last longer.

7. When the chains have been re-sharpened to the point that there is less than 1/8" of tooth left, get new chains and a new bar as well as a new drive sprocket.

8. Learn the proper way to file a chain, keep it sharp and keep it out of the dirt, don't cut nails or railroad ties. If you must get stumps out, dig them out. Cutting roots with a chainsaw is a no-no. Dirt is the worst enemy of a chainsaw. It accelerates wear on the chain bar and sprockets.

On sharpening chain, learn the proper way to file a chain. Special files are made for that purpose. You must maintain the proper angle and keep the raker's filed to allow the tooth to cut. I run 0.404 chipper chain on all my saws. The 0.404 chain has a large tooth and a long life.

If you take your chains to a shop to be sharpened, the operator will tend to remove too much tooth and chain life will be short. It's advantageous for them as they sell more chain that way.

Once you learn the proper method to file a chain, and carry a file in your pocket when you are cutting wood, you chains will be sharp all the time and last too.

I also have a chain grinder in the shop. Oregon makes a nice one, just like the one you dealer has. I use it as a last resort, if I accidentally hit a rock or nail and have to do a grind. It's a last resort though.

I think I covered most points. Remember. Chainsaws are dangerous. Always be alert and don't get cocked and use the saw. You could wind up in the hospital or amputate a limb.

 

[Bird]

There's one thing I always did that I don't think has been mentioned, but with any two stroke engine that used a gasoline/oil mixture, before I put it away, I ran all the gas out of it. With boat motors, I'd disconnect the gas line from the tank and run the engine until it died, with my Lawnboy lawnmower, I'd turn off the gas at the petcock under the tank, then start it and run it until it died, and with my chainsaws, I'd pour the gas out of the tank, then restart it and run it out. The only exceptions were when I knew I'd be running it again the next day.

 

[40Kchicks]

Excellent post Daryl

I inherited an old homelite saw that is still running but got to use my brothers new Stihl 036 pro after the last big wind storm. What a difference. True it’s not really fair to compare a 20 year old saw to a new one but I must say that I was really impressed with the Stihl. On the other hand a few years ago I got a Stihl blower for my birthday. That thing is an embarrassment to the Stihl name. It hasn’t worked right since day one. I have had it in shop a couple of times for warrenty work and it still won’t work right. One day I might think about it and take it in again but right now it’s just filling a corner of the shop.

I’m glad Daryl brought up safety. When I was 15 years old I was holding a stick for my dad when the saw grabbed it and put my fingers into the spinning blade. It happened so fast I didn’t even realize I had been cut until I noticed the blood. It cut my right middle fingers to the bone through the tendons and the other ones to the tendons. I was lucky I didn’t loose them. I started my freshman year in high school he next week with my first class being typing. I got a D in that class. It was hard to learn typing with one hand in a bandage and fingers that didn’t bend.

Eric.

 

[pruntyc]

The only problem I have ever had with Stihl is my string cutter, the ring froze up and I called and they said that it happens if you don't run it fast enough, the carbon builds up and freezes the ring. After I took it apart and put on a new ring and run it mostly full speed now. It don't have a problem and that has been about 3 or 4 years ago now.But then again I use Amsoil 100 to 1, and mixed at that rate now to, so there is less carbon. I use it in my old chain saw which calls for a 40 to 1 with Stihl oil and 25 to 1 with other oils. Works great and no carbon problems. They didn't have oils like that back in the 70's though. Oh yes I did have to have a new wire for the plug on the 031, but after 24 years that ain't bad.

 

[5030]

Bird:

You are absolutely right. That goes for any small 2 stroke engine or any engine that sees only occasional use.

Reminds me of my boss and his portable generator. Every time his power goes out, his generator won't start. After the blackout, he takes it to the repair shop and gets it fixed (carb and fuel system cleaned). Then it sits with fuel in the tank and carb until the next emergency and no start.

He must have a hard head. Maybe that's why he's the boss??

 

[28RedHorses]

Jonathan,

I have the Stihl 029 saw with a 20 inch bar. I use it in the same type of Virginia environment that you do and it works great. I have used it in trees that are four feet in diameter. There is a set of teeth (I'm sure there is a technical name for this /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif) against the body of the saw that allows me to grip the log.

It handles all I can throw at it and is easy to maintain.

If I remember correctly the 029 is the low end of the professional models.

I maintain the chain with a hand file.

The only issue I had with the saw (I've had mine for about eight years) is the recall for the gas cap. Stihl sent me a notice about the cap and I took it to my dealer in town and it was fixed and check in ten minutes. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The saw came with extra oil, the case, extra chain, and a Sthil hat.

Good luck!

28Red /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[5030]

28:

The "teeth" on the saw body at the base of the bar are called "bucking spikes". Their purpose is to gain leverage when cutting so as to advance the bar downward like a lever.

 

[Docsknotinn]

I quit running the Stihl chain because most dealers here carry that safety stuff /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif The Stihl chain is more expensive. I have been useing Oregon full chisel for about a year now. The Oregon mini bench grinder I picked up was about $175 with freight from Northern Tool. Its very slick. In two weeks its just about paid for itself. I took one in to get it sharpened, $12 and they ground the liveing snot out of it just like Daryl said. In fact I didnt even cut with it I just tossed it. So for the last year Ive been buying them new $17, useing them till their dull and tossing them in a bucket. I have enough chain to last a long while. I put a couple hours on the Stihl today. In fact I found a new stand of mature cedars and a deer blind I didnt even know was there /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Dick, I cant remember what brand mine was. The writeing is way too small. I think its something like yuckmar /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Dave

 

[pruntyc]

I think I have heard of that tractor Dave. Yanmar made quite a few for them, just so they would have some good tractors. Boy, if I only lived close to you, I would have bought the same model saw as you, and would never had to buy chain again. I use mine till its down to about 1/8 to 3/16 in long on the cutter. I use a file, most of the time, hardly ever a stone, unless like the one guy said if I hit something, that makes me need to. And on the bars if they get a burr on it I file that off, to. And use a lot of chains per bar. Oh well, I'm not there and now you will sharpen your own so I'm out of luck this time.

 

[Docsknotinn]

I'm still cutting new roads and field so I wind up doing a lot of ground cutting. Some days like yesterday I just spend the whole afternoon felling. Those will be the ones I clean up in the spring. I have a few acres right now that have been down a little less than a year. I need to cut that up into firewood and burn the brush before the dozer comes . Once I start that I will no doubt dull several chains in a day. Stopping to file in the woods is time consumeing. My property is 4.5 hours away so many days I wind up driveing 9 hours and working 5-6. I dont want to loose any work time. Dave

 

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> Once I start that I will no doubt dull several chains in a day. Stopping to file in the woods is time consumeing. My property is 4.5 hours away so many days I wind up driveing 9 hours and working 5-6. I dont want to loose any work time. </font>

Dave
You need more chainsaws not chains. Then you can just start another one up when the first one becomes dull. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[powerstroke2000]

That is why I got 4 saws for just fill them all up with a sharp chain then head for the wood when one goes dull or runs out of gas just get another /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[5030]

Dave:

I used to buy my chain in bulk rolls. That's why I use 0.404 chipper chain. Now I get "loops". Bulk chain is pretty cheap and it's easy to spin in rivets to make loops.

As far as chain, the name on the side plate is pretty generic. I also use Oregon chain.

One exception is a new chain on the market. A manufacturer is making "carbide" tooth chain. With carbide teeth, you don't have to worry too much about hitting a nail and the occasional dirt shot isn't detrimental either, at least not to the chain itself. The drive sprocket and roller nose is another story. The carbide chain is very expensive.

One thing I didn't add to my list of do's and do -nots is:

It's time to file a chain when you observe wood pitch building up on the top surface of the tooth, just behind the cutting edge.

 

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> It's time to file a chain when you observe wood pitch building up on the top surface of the tooth, just behind the cutting edge. </font>

Daryl

I'll have to look for that next time I use my saw.

Since I have a chain grinder. I watch for the chips to start showing signs of sawdust instead of chips.

I have kept the chains sharp by just removing only the amount of teeth that is needed to sharpen it.

When time allows I use a fine stone to remove the burr that grinding creates.

When I bought my 031. I bought 4 STIHL chains. I'm still using those same chains and bar. For the first 20 years that I lived at my home we heated with wood. I would fill the woodbin in the barn that is 14’ X 24’ X 7’ high every year.

Your advise about turning the bar every time the chain is changed helps a lot.

I always use STIHL oil to mix with gas. It has an additive that stops the gas from going bad.

Checked the sales receipt stapled into the back of the manual. I bought the saw in March of 1977 for $239.

 

[Docsknotinn]

yeah I could use a bigger saw for select work. My wish list is a mile and a half long and for right now chain is a lot cheaper than another saw. I need to sell the modified fun buggy to get a Diesel mule to carry the extra saw, A garage to put the mule in, A cabin to sleep in and a bigger tractor to boot. YES, I bought 5 lotto tickets last night /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Dave

 

[bebster]

I have had great success with Stihl brand for reliability. Have a 16" bar (probably a little short, but didn't know better when I bought it). After looking at it for at least a year, finally broke down and bought the 075 pruning saw, and am glad I did. Although it's just a 14" bar, and a bit low on power, I've used it just fine on 6" diameter trees. Having the chain 8' away is very comforting, and now I use this saw whenever I can do the job with it. It really makes easy cleaning up of branches up to 12' off the ground (which makes for great tractor clearance around the trees).

 

[paco]

I bought a stihl 028 in 1988 for home use, it's been a great saw, paid $299 for it. I just recently bought a husky 395 and so far I love it, paid $865.

 

[Slamfire]

Wow a new bar with every chain! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I much prefer a new bar every three chains, but then I keep the slot cleaned out and the wear edge honed off.

 

[5030]

Slamfire:

A new bar with every (2) chains. Plus a new drive sprocket. That's the rule of thumb when your business is the tree business.

I never scrimp on bars either. I always use the Stihl Rollmatic roller nose bars and I don't believe in anti-kickback chain. The raker's on that type of chain are not aggressive enough to take advantage of a mid range saws horsepower potential. Use either 0.404 or 0.380 chipper chain and the maximum bar length the manufacturer recommends. You as the operator will have the option of controlling the feed to the point that the saw labors.

 

[gsganzer]

When I used to do logging and arborist work, we used Husky 266's (Not sure if they make them anymore). We put a smaller drive sprocket on them and used 20" bars.

A few things to add to your do's and dont's:

On the bars with the roller sprocket, periodically grease the sprocket. They sell a small grease applicator for this purpose.

Periodically flip the bar and dress the edges with a small flat file to remove any burrs and keeping the rails nice and square. (almost like sharpening a pair of ice skates)

Also, when sharpening, periodically file the rakers down with a flat file. The raker is the small metal tab that follows each cutting tooth. It clears out the chip before the next cutting edge engages the wood. When you file back the cutting edge, the raker will become too tall and prevent the tooth from getting a good bite. About 2 passes with a small flat file is all it takes on the top of each raker. Don't file too much, or the chain will grab too much wood and bog the saw.