jjp8182
Platinum Member
Yep, just need to tilt them forward/down a bit - which yes, may increase the risk to the curl cylinders a bit since they wouldn't be fully retracted, but it's a tractor and using the FEL for anything more than ripping an inch or two into the ground (and only while driving in a straight line) probably isn't the best use for the FEL. Seeing the loader arms even temporarily flex to the left or right isn't exactly what I'd call a fun experience (though it can be quite memorable) -- which is something that can happen if/when one side hits an underground object that doesn't want to move or the unmovable object is diagonal to the driving path.this is really helpful. You are saying the longer tines can still do the ground ripping/rooting though?
Personally I prefer using the rippers on my box blade for dislodging buried roots, some types of stumps (like cedars and other trees with shallow, but wide spreading roots), semi-buried rocks, and overgrown (e.g. >5ft. tall) weeds/vegetation that can be backed over (completely or partially). While taking that box blade approach involves a second implement, the box blade also leverages the tractor's design strengths and provides ballast for loader operations. It also makes for easy windrowing of the roots/vegetation, after which those windrows can be raked/scooped up and hauled off in large volume with the grapple - and by large volume I mean packed in tight enough the grapple lid may not fully close, but is just providing enough clamping pressure to keep the load from spilling. This sort of scooping/hauling is where the L-bottom style can be of greater help since tipping the grapple back can help cradle more of the load.
On a side note: it can actually be an entertaining (yet disturbing) experience to use that method to such effect that the grapple is filled full enough of still green weeds/vegetation to start making the back of the tractor feel light.
The short-tine root rake grapples can also do all of this as well, but they usually don't have that tooth length/angle to help cradle a large/oversized load as much -- though whichever type of grapple is used sufficient ballast will still be needed on the rear.
Can't say that I thought/knew of all of this prior to buying a grapple, but after hitting roots that have brought the tractor to an immediate and total dead stop (on a few different occasions) I'm not sure I'd ever want to use the FEL on a tractor for primary root removal -- unless *perhaps* I absolutely knew what was buried under ground and where any large roots/pipes/rocks were.
Those large buried objects that don't move easily are also a very good reason to keep the working speeds LOW.