Best implement to remove grass?

[wrooster]

My plan is to completely tear up all grass and weeds and prepare to re-seed next spring. My initial thought is to run over with disc to cut through and tear up the sod layer and then make multiple passes with something like a chain harrow to hopefully rake up as much grass/weed as possible.

1. Fall is the best time to seed. You are probably too late to do this.
2. Application of a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate at this time of the year will kill the remaining grass and you'll be left with a topsoil erosion/migration problem for the winter and early spring. So leave what you have there.
3. Considering you want to reseed in the spring (again, not optimum for reasons I will explain shortly), apply glyphosate as soon as the weather turns. You will probably have to have a second go about two weeks later as well, as glyphosate is not a pre-emergent and you are going to have weeds coming in at the same time. I would not till, you will just bring more weed seeds into play. Instead, amend with a mixture of topsoil and peat.
4. Seed using a slit seeder, cover with light peatmoss, roll for good topsoil contact, cover with straw (not hay).
5. Water to keep seed/seedlings damp.
6. Fertilize after second cut.
7. Do not apply PRE-EMERGENT for about 3 months. This is the primary problem with seeding in the spring -- you can't apply a pre-emergent and the weeds are going to germinate alongside the turfgrass and compete. The fall is the easiest/best time of the year to get grass going -- far better than spring. You do not want nor have to worry about weed killer/crabgrass preventer when seeding in the fall, as these annuals will die off the moment the temperature drops below 50'F or so. Crabgrass preventer (aka "pre-emergent", tradename "Halts" or "Dimension") is applied in the spring, and lasts about 3 months. It prevents *any* seed germination, which is why you can not seed turfgrass in the presence of a previously applied pre-emergent.

In closing,
My advice is to wait until next fall. Seeding in the spring is haphazard at best. In many cases the roots will not get deep enough to fend off any type of summer drought, and then when the grass gets weak the weeds will multiply and crowd out the limp grass. And if you try to seed in the early summer you will end up with a splotchy lawn, and weeds will grow in the bare spots.

Finally, read sites such as
http://www.lawnsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=100

Wrooster

 

[jwatt51]

This is a nice toy for your FEL, check out the video:
Ratchet Rake, LLC - Tractor attachment, Bucket attachment, Loader, Skid loader, Kubota, Skid steer, Landscape rake, Brush remover, York Rake, Harley Rake, Rock Rake, Tractor rake attachment, Construction attachment, New Holland, Bobcat, Fire safety,

I've used my ratchet rake many times for stripping lawns and it works great.

 

[Lawnjocky]

wrooster has it right.

As to stripping the sod and prepping for seeding, I do it this way.
1. Use a tiller set to 2" to cut up the sod. Don't go any deeper or try to till the sod into the soil because it will settle out uneven.
2. Use FEL to push and pile up cut sod. If you can let it decompose for a year or two it will be good dirt.
3. If grade changes are needed use a box blade.
4. Finish grade with a pulverizer or power rake. This is also a good time to mix in improvements to the soil as per any soil testing.
5. Seed and lightly roll. Some will argue against rolling but I find it set's the seed which improves germination rates and firms the soil to reduce erosion.

If the above sounds like a lot of work you're right. I only do strip jobs when the lawn is really bad and has a lot of problems.

Most lawns can be mowed, sprayed, holes and low places filled with dirt, slit seeded, and are good to go.

 

[johnrex62]

The best solution for grass removal bar none is to declare you want to protect it and buy a dog. Game over, grass is dead and you have a beautiful dog bed/hole in its place. :thumbsup:




Back to your regularly schedule topic:


roundup is non-selective and is equivelent to scorched earth when applied according to directions. :cool2:

 

[kfvintx]

Keep the great information coming.:thumbsup:

A few more bits of info that may be useful in providing input --

1. Yard is at family ranch in somewhat northern central Texas (north of Waco for those familiar with the area). No frost yet and doesn't get snow coverage like northern areas. Winter can get cold but nothing like some of you.

2. Nobody lives at the ranch so all work will be done as time permits. Main reason I was hoping to get some prep work done over the winter. Also, if turned into dirt and then possibly mud field (see #3) we don't live there so not like we have to put up with it daily. On the flip side, any stage of work needs to be done within a weekend and may be a couple weeks before I get back.

3. We are in worst drought in history. If for some reason it started raining and turning what I have worked on into mud field it will be the least of my worries. Myself and many others will be too busy celebrating the rain.

4. I guess I am lucky and have always used Round Up correctly because any time I have used it everything I spray has died (and somethings I didn't spray -- sweetie, I promise I was no where near those rose bushes ).

 

[Fixemall]

Two different directions with a plug aerator, seed, milorganite, water...done
Let it grow to 3" cut and use the weed and feed of your choice. Don't overthink the project, do it now and you will have a great lawn.
One of my best customers is a 25 yr landscaper and this is his method, I used it on a couple of bad areas and it worked wonders, the 3" grass developed in fall chokes out the spring weeds and looks fantastic. A good quality seed helps too.

 

[SandburRanch]

There are a few trees and great care will be taken with Round Up in that area. As well as disc or any other work so as to not distrurb the root system.

The Ratchet Rake looks interesting..... and great price point as well

Any risk of seeds from weeds germinating and continuing to grow if only plowed or disc? A lot of the weeds are burs (not sure what they are called in different areas but little round stickers that cling to everything and hurt.... especially for kids). I would like to totally eradicate these if possible. In fact, I would like to cause great harm to them in doing so if somehow possible for how much I hate them :laughing:

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Forget the round-up and moldboard plow it or disk it a few times at different angles to turn the vegetation under to decay and then leave it fallow until spring since spring is when you plan to plant. And unless I missed the information I can only guess what species of lawn grass you are wanting.

If you have stickers (sandburs) I'm betting you have sandy soil and if you only plan to visit this residence occasionally you have a tuff row to hoe.

That dirt is going to take nitrogen fertilizer + water and lots of it. People talk about an inch of water per week; well those folks live somewhere other than where you are and have never dealt with sandy soil and real heat for days on end. With the summer you've had an inch / day of water may keep it alive until better weather conditions.

Stickers / Sandburs eradication - see water and fertilizer above plus a dandelion stick with a 4 ft. handle if you're old people. It'll take about 4 years of diligent work to get them down to a dull roar.

 

[hrcarver]

Not sure where you got that info from, glyphosate is very non-selective. I was in the same situation as you are kfvintx...the lawn was neglected for years. I had a geothermal heating system installed (horizontal, 600 x 15 trench 6 feet deep) so at the same time i renovated the back yard. I sprayed round up (properly) and plowed it under for the winter. In the spring I sprayed it again and a few weeks later i worked it over several times with my 3 pt disc and harrows. Had excellent results but it took time. That was 3 years ago and it looks better each year.

That is only partially accurate. Try killing bermuda (or any other warm season grass) this time of year with roundup. Total waste.

Also, I'm not sure of the level of quality that you are looking for, but discing it may do nothing but sprig the entire lawn with weeds. You need to kill the weeds when they are actively growing. You can not do it whenever you feel like it. Just depends on what kind of results you are expecting. You can probably disc it up and seed it now and be fine for a year or maybe two. Location plays a big role too.