Grapple Best Sized Grapple?

[metalbender]

A smaller grapple will put less strain on the loader, thinking side loading. Built my own to match the loader width to keep forces in line with the arms. Handles branches well enough, digs rocks great.

 

[SteelMastiff]

I recently purchased the "EA 66 Inch Wicked Root Rake Grapple" for my 75hp tractor, and I would encourage you to take a close look at what they have to offer...I am not proclaiming to be an expert by any means, but I have to believe it's about the perfect width, and the srength to weight ratio shouldn't be ignored in your decision, especially considering what you are looking to do with it....

 

[Turbys_1700]

It really comes down to your budget. Lower cost grapples will use a lower grade steel. IMHO the difference in 60" versus 66" is minimal. I opted for a lightweight 72" grapple that was low in cost. At the time I used it with a 50 HP tractor. Later I traded the tractor in on a larger unit. No doubt in my mind that I could tear it up if I did not use it judiciously. The EA grapples IMHO are some of the best on the market.

I don't know the lift capacity of your tractor and FEL. There is a balance between weight of grapple and amount you can lift with the FEL. Lots of considerations. Keep us updated with your purchase. We love spending other folks money.

 

[Motorboatin]

No offence, but I can' believe anyone would powder coat something like that. Something that is damage prone and subject to rust and weather, and then, no way to make touch ups. Or heaven help you, if you need to weld it.

Every product we weld gets powder coated and when someone screws up and doesn't catch a mistake until after coating my guys fix it. Grinding and cleaning the weld zone isn't any harder on a powder coated part than a painted one

A powder coated part in JD green is the same color as a painted one so color matching isn't an issue. Kubota orange could be a problem but only because their paint fades so fast :laughing:

 

[thekkfan]

... find the Universal Black Enamel just works best. Looks appropriate for a tool and can be ground or wire wheeled off, then touched up with a rattle can.

Agree 100%.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I offered to repair a gate of a customer that a landscaper had mangled after the gate closed on his trailer. I didn't realize it was powder coated. What a problem dealing with the powder coat, for welding and trying to spray enamel back on to hide the repairs.

I have stuff sandblasted all the time and powder coat is again a terrible thing to run into. Either it comes off in large patches (why I call it Powder Scab) or is extremely hard to remove in other places.

 

[Shaneard]

I offered to repair a gate of a customer that a landscaper had mangled after the gate closed on his trailer. I didn't realize it was powder coated. What a problem dealing with the powder coat, for welding and trying to spray enamel back on to hide the repairs.

I have stuff sandblasted all the time and powder coat is again a terrible thing to run into. Either it comes off in large patches (why I call it Powder Scab) or is extremely hard to remove in other places.

The reason it comes off in large patches is from lack of prep work underneath, you see this a lot with stuff powdercoated overseas. If it's hard to get off then it was prepped right. I have everything I can powdercoated, a good friend owns a powdercoat business. Stick welder doesn't mind if powdercoat is on or not, mig is a different story even after trying to grind it clean for repairs.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I think that's only part of it. I believe the "shakey bakey" coating cracks and then the rust spreads underneith.

It bugs me, that this process was and is, promoted as some kind of a "superior" coating and finish, when in reality it's all environmentally driven. Kind of like water based paints which I won't touch.

I have had stuff sandblasted and then powder coated (before I learned the truth) and would be curious to know how well that lasted.

 

[Motorboatin]

I offered to repair a gate of a customer that a landscaper had mangled after the gate closed on his trailer. I didn't realize it was powder coated. What a problem dealing with the powder coat, for welding and trying to spray enamel back on to hide the repairs.

I have stuff sandblasted all the time and powder coat is again a terrible thing to run into. Either it comes off in large patches (why I call it Powder Scab) or is extremely hard to remove in other places.

Powder should be hard to remove in ALL places

Delamination...or scab...is caused by poor pretreatment. Coaters will tell you that it was the metal you gave them but it is almost always a coating issue. I have only seen a handful of times when it was a material problem and each time it was due to a chemical the fabricator used to clean the parts that wasn't water soluble

Caterpillar is one of our largest customers and when I visited their Peoria plant they showed be a couple acres of rejected parts due to delamination...none were ours

 

[Motorboatin]

I think that's only part of it. I believe the "shakey bakey" coating cracks and then the rust spreads underneith.

It bugs me, that this process was and is, promoted as some kind of a "superior" coating and finish, when in reality it's all environmentally driven. Kind of like water based paints which I won't touch.

I have had stuff sandblasted and then powder coated (before I learned the truth) and would be curious to know how well that lasted.

Coating cracks are 100% due to poor pretreatment

Coating a part that has been blasted will give you the best adhesion possible as long as the part is coated before rust starts to form. Nothing cleaner than a freshly blasted piece of metal