Best spray paint to use?

[jodebg]

I need to paint a pallet fork frame and another attachment that
will also get some use and abuse.

I have cleaned and primed the pallet fork frame and now need to
select a good brand of paint that will be durable. Any advise
on brands that you have had good luck with.

I plan to paint both attachments black, and with spray cans.

Will a gloss black paint be more durable than a low gloss finish?

I see Valspar offers a low gloss black. Not sure if this is actually a flat black?

 

[LD1]

I dont think any single part spray can paint is going to be that durable. At least not as much as a two-part enamel or urethane.

But, some are certainly better than others. when it comes to spray paint, you get what you pay for IMO. Cheap stuff dont cover well, run, takes longer to dry, and just isnt as good.

For rattle can stuff, I like rustoleum industrial or krylon "tough coat" Every color I have tried covers exceptionally well, with the exception of yellow (but no yellow covers well)

 

[southernAL]

I just recently painted a light bracket on my tractor with Gloss black Tractor paint in a spray can that I got from Tractor Supply. It covered well with no runs. But thats the extent that i've used it, so I can't really give that good of a review.

 

[motoman3b]

Prime with a good self etching primer or epoxy primer and coat it with por15 really durable paint!

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have air painted a lot of equipment. Now, when I can (if it isn't too big) I just use Black Gloss Tremclad. I wouldn't waste my money on primer and find that although the paint may stick, the primer doesn't. Just scratches off with the paint on top!

I try and buy the bonus cans when on sale. Also, when you get a scratch, it's super easy to touch up. And Gloss will look like Semi-Gloss in short order anyway. Plus, (usuallly) only Gloss White and Black come in the bonus cans.

The only thing to watch for is runs. I HATE runs!

 

[Jay4200]

I plan to paint both attachments black, and with spray cans.

I've had pretty good luck with Rustoleum gloss black. Incidentally, if you want an inexpensive dead-perfect match for Kubota Orange, use Rustoleum "Lobster Red" - $3.77/can at Walmart. I bet it's the exact same stuff as inside the $13 Kubota touch-up cans.

 

[George2615]

I second the Rustoleum and Krylon for rattle can spray. Using a spray gun I use Industrial / implement paint usually bought at TSC or NAPA.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Using implement paint through a sprayer is hit and miss in my experience. Usually, it works best with a new gravity type sprayer. If you thin it out, you either loose gloss or it becomes very patchy.

I used to buy new (cheap) sprayers on sale at Princess Auto. Use them, and return them, saying they do not have replacement filters for them which is true. So, it's no good to me.

A friend has airless equipment and industrial enamal I sometimes use, but I find it almost impossible to avoid massive runs.

EDIT: In my mind, there is no such thing as a durable paint, in ground engaging applications. I talked to a disgrunted Horst (HLA) Snow pusher owner who claimed that all the paint was gone from the front of his blade, after the first use. I'm sure that was totally due to poor prep, and not the paint. Actually, someone should build a line of stainless steel buckets.

 

[daugen]

The toughest rattle can paint I've found is the ceramic paint used on appliances.
problem is finding that in gloss black.
I don't think you can go wrong with Rustoleum Industrial or Valspar
but I'm going to be in the camp that says prep is everything. If you don't get the grease, oils and waxes off almost perfectly,
don't think it will matter what you put on. Isn't going to stick...
Tremclad is just Rustoleum in Canada, same stuff.

I've done a lot of rattle can painting and restoration and it's hard to beat a clean surface, an etching primer, and several top coats.
A clear coat on top of that helps retain some gloss and really is just one more layer of protection.
So I'd worry more about the prep and less about which major brand is better. Though I think the TSC Majic stuff is a bit thin at times. I miss the old Valspar paint
they used to carry.

I know there are one part poly paints for boats, pretty expensive stuff, don't know what is available for implements but I'd think anything with plastic or epoxy in it would be more durable under heavy wear.

 

[jodebg]

Thanks for the feedback.

I had to touch up some missing paint on a John Deere today.
Bought a can of Rustoleum JD green. I must say, it was an excellent color match,
east to use, and a very nice smooth finish. If it stays on, I'm all set!

 

[SARG]

I'm now using the Tractor Store brand called Majic. It seems "heavier" than all others I've used and they have all the "brand" colors.

Only warning is be careful and watchful for drift in a slight breeze. I ended up spending more than two hours scraping the wife's windshield with a razor blade.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Have you considered 2 part paint with a brush?

Tip it off with the tip of the brush to smooth it.

 

[jodebg]

That's a possibility. Any brand in particular? More durable?
One of the attachments is rather difficult to brush
and I would need a paint that did not dry quickly.

 

[mapper]

When my neighbor welded the hooks onto my fuel bucket he recommended priming the welds and bare metal where the original powder coating was ground off during prep with rustoleum zinc paint then cover with the gloss black that matched the original finish. I have used the hooks quite a bit and the finish has held up well, no surface rust at all. I do keep the tractor in the shop so it's not sitting out when not being used.

 

[Coyote machine]

FWIW, I have found I can do a much better rattle can application if I use one of the handles that allows one to pull a trigger to activate the can's spray button, rather than using my finger to press the button. It is also much less tiring if one has a lot of spraying to do. The proper motion of spraying straight ahead when sweeping side to side is also much easier to maintain and accomplish with the can trigger handle.
Don't leave home without one!

Rust-Oleum Stops Rust High Performance Comfort Spray Grip Accessory-241526 - The Home Depot

 

[LD1]

Also worth mentioning that the fan-tips are much better than the standard ones

 

[GPintheMitten]

That's a possibility. Any brand in particular? More durable?
One of the attachments is rather difficult to brush
and I would need a paint that did not dry quickly.

No particular brand. You can get it at TSC or other suppliers. The reason I mention it is that one part is a hardener. If I recall, the fumes are highly toxic. I sprayed it. But with a brush, I think the exposure is much less .

The brush and tip method is one I used on a small boat. I used two inch foam brush to tip it.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Acetone or laquor thinner would have made short work of the paint on the windsheild. In fact, I have used it (with haste) to remove unwanted fresh paint on painted surfaces as well having a clean, dry, soft rag at the ready for final clean up.

 

[jodebg]

The toughest rattle can paint I've found is the ceramic paint used on appliances.
problem is finding that in gloss black.
I don't think you can go wrong with Rustoleum Industrial or Valspar
but I'm going to be in the camp that says prep is everything. If you don't get the grease, oils and waxes off almost perfectly,
don't think it will matter what you put on. Isn't going to stick...
Tremclad is just Rustoleum in Canada, same stuff.

I've done a lot of rattle can painting and restoration and it's hard to beat a clean surface, an etching primer, and several top coats.
A clear coat on top of that helps retain some gloss and really is just one more layer of protection.
So I'd worry more about the prep and less about which major brand is better. Though I think the TSC Majic stuff is a bit thin at times. I miss the old Valspar paint
they used to carry.

I know there are one part poly paints for boats, pretty expensive stuff, don't know what is available for implements but I'd think anything with plastic or epoxy in it would be more durable under heavy wear.

Interesting thought about using an appliance ceramic paint. In doing a search I see hi temp engine paints with ceramic.
I wonder if this engine paint would add durability to the attachments? Wide range of colors available, too.

 

[daugen]

Interesting thought about using an appliance ceramic paint. In doing a search I see hi temp engine paints with ceramic.
I wonder if this engine paint would add durability to the attachments? Wide range of colors available, too.

It might be a one note band...without UV additives, which I doubt paint for a washing machine has, might not last too well outside due to the sun. Aren't most high temp paints flat? Trying to remember...think something fairly glossy would hold up better.

it would be really super if one of our members worked in the paint industry and could give us a rundown on which paints are the leaders. Sometimes some paints just have more solids, seem less thin, but I have no idea if that equates with durability vs two thin layers vs one thick.

I'm not a fan of thick layers of paint on most objects. And I really have had good long lasting results with etching primer.
With all the "industrial coatings" (fancy name for paint...) out there, I'm surprised we don't have more good product choices.
Since 80% of the work is prep, might as well put the best paint on.

I am really annoyed that after using a primer and two coats of white paint on my renovation garden tractor wheels, which then sat in storage, granted not inside, little spots of "underneath" rust are popping through. Mostly discolorations, but I guess I didn't use the etching primer on these wheels and should have. The rust is like a pre-cancer, better get it out before it does damage.