Best Steel Finish

[TRR]

I've had the best results using this:

Sandblast to bare metal
Allow to get a flash coating of rust
Apply OSPHO - (converts iron oxide to iron phosphate which acts as a primer)
Apply a zinc spray coat
Top coat

I did an experiment with this in Florida many years ago. 3 samples of 2 each methods. The method above was one, the second method left out the OSPHO. The method without the OSPHO lasted 3 years before rust started showing thru. The one with OSPHO was 7 years, even then the pressure treated post it was mounted to had to be replaced before the steel sample had to be refinished.

 

[Creamer]

For truck Brush Bar, i would find a local fabricator that has a powder coat booth and have it coated. Should be easily under $100 and the best coat you can ask for.

 

[amashinga]

I have used por15

It hardens to a bullet proof surface, no joke. I could not chip it with a screwdriver and in the time I had the truck I had no repeat of the rust issues.

I also saw a independent youtuber do a shootout between various anti rust paints by painting steel and moving them between a salt bath and the sun and the por15 was hands down the most rust resistant.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I would stay away from any miracle products. There are a lot of gimmics out there . . .

Ospho is not a miracle product or a gimmick. It is a commercial metal prep that has been used in the marine/offshore industry for decades. The reason is simple: it works.

 

[Jeepnford]

X2 on the POR-15. That stuff is tough. You want plenty of ventilation when you do it.

 

[strum456]

Ospho is commercially used and works great at removing rust or it can be used for temporary protection. Unless this brush guard is being constructed out of rusted steel, I dont see where ospho would offer any advantages.

POR 15 and simiar products work well over clean or sand blasted metal. However, these products offer no advantages over epoxy primer but have numerous disadvantages.

 

[TRR]

Ospho is commercially used and works great at removing rust or it can be used for temporary protection. Unless this brush guard is being constructed out of rusted steel, I dont see where ospho would offer any advantages.

This is correct! OSPHO provides no benefit to clean steel. It needs a thin layer of rust (iron oxide) to convert to iron phosphate. The iron phosphate clings to the clean steel much tighter than rust and helps prevent moisture from reaching the clean steel.

Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have used por15

It hardens to a bullet proof surface, no joke. I could not chip it with a screwdriver and in the time I had the truck I had no repeat of the rust issues.

I also saw a independent youtuber do a shootout between various anti rust paints by painting steel and moving them between a salt bath and the sun and the por15 was hands down the most rust resistant.

X2 on the POR-15. That stuff is tough. You want plenty of ventilation when you do it.

Do it outside .. and if you can stand a fan blowing do it too. Do not use spray.
...POR 15 doesnt "dry" it cures by moisture in the air. It is equally effective it hot ot cold weather, but very slo in cold because cold doesnt have as much moisture. Its UV sensitive so must be painted over for long life. You can use it to lay up fiberglass. Its main problem is keeping. Once a can is opened there will be issues with the part remaining unused after a few days unless treated very scrupulously. Trapped moisture, and that introduced from dipping brushes will start its curing and harden or thicken it and compromise its application properties. ALWAYS decant what you are going to use. Then clean the rim of the storage can very well with lacquer thinner [it is an excellent glue] and seal tight. If youre game, a one minute stay open in the freezer with you slapping the cap on before removal will give the most convenient dry air trapped inside.
... I use the clear resin. The dye just compromises the pure resin qualities.
larry

 

[SPIKER]

Like others stated, best to have proper surface prep.

1st assumed old rusty & dirty surfaces.
pressure wash with oil removing detergent first dont sand blast a oily surface as the oil can get pushed into the metal preventing later paint surface adhesion.

sandblast grind or sand to remove all of the rusty surface is best, other methods are chemically removing the rust or electrically removing the rust but getting it off is needed. That does not prep the painted surfaces though so if paint is still on it needs sanded for top coating.

the bare metal then needs to be phosphoric treatment to etch the metal surface and it does more it creates a chemical bonding agent on the surface (under microscope looks like diamonds) the treated surface will even prevent rust from forming even with no top coated for a good bit of time.

The Zinc Chromatic primers do the above step to a point but is only a stop gap. They are very good for priming though.

Good primer drys hard and bites hard on metal surfaces. as such most of them require a sand prior to top coating. there are primer surface-rs that prime and when mostly dry can be top coated without sanding. They normally can only be top coated with specific paints that are designed to go with the mostly dry primer surface-er so be aware of this.

top coating after sanding should follow manufacture specified steps for best results most are low or non-thinning anymore but most can be thinned. Temps and Humidity also play parts in best times and best conditions will make better results.

Powder Coating is similar processes even now have primers for powder coating as well.

hope that helps



Mark

 

[mroldstyle]

Two words: Epoxy Primer

X2 and a good quality auto paint, purchased at auto supplyshop