"Best" synthetic hydraulic fluid for the money?

[KMA]

I know this topic comes up every now and again, and there are some differences in opinions and recommendations... By being specific, I'm hoping to get some advice from the forum regarding my particular "requirements".

I've decided to completely replace the motor oil used for hydraulic fluid in my PT-422. I'll feel more comfortable with a UTF type synthetic oil in the 10w30 ish range, but don't want to spend anymore that I have to.

Here are some estimated prices on the two options I know about (the UTF Red info maybe a bit dated):

Amsoil Synthetic Hydraulic Oil (5w30)
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ath.aspx
2 x 5 gal pail = ~ $250 + shipping

TRC UTF Red (10w30)
Texas Refinery Corp. Specialty Lubricants and Greases TRC
2 x 6 gal pail = ~ $200 + $20 shipping

Chevron Synthetic All Weather THF
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...nthetic-chevron-synthetic-all-weather-thf.pdf
2 x 5 gal pail = ~200 (don't know where to purchase this yet...)

[edit]added the Chevron product... don't know a lot about it, but saw some discussions with positive feedback[/edit]

Has anyone found a good deal on any of these products, or a recommendation of one over the others? Has anyone come across another option for a multi-viscosity, synthetic hydraulic oil? Price is a factor of course. Local availability would be a plus too. I live where it gets cold in the winters and hot in the summers, so I feel 10w30 is the narrowest range I'll feel comfortable with. (Although I don't use the tractor in the winter very much...)

Also, does anyone know what amount is needed to completely replace the hydraulic oil in the PT422?

Thanks in advance!

 

[MossRoad]

I'm fairly sure it has a 10 gallon hydraulic tank. Then you have to figure how much is in the lines, pumps, etc...

Be sure to bleed properly before the engine is allowed to fire up.

 

[KMA]

I'm fairly sure it has a 10 gallon hydraulic tank. Then you have to figure how much is in the lines, pumps, etc...

Be sure to bleed properly before the engine is allowed to fire up.

Thanks MR. That is what I thought on the tank size. Once I get ready to replace the oil, I'll be back to the forum for more advice I'm sure.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

My personal opinion, if it was my machine, would to put ATF in it. I personally do not believe that the synthetic oils are worth the extra cost. Oil gets dirty from outside sources, so the extended intervals don't gain you anything as far as I'm concerned. I've seen ATF flow like water at -50 fahrenheit, so flow in the cold is okay. Maybe PT calls for 10w-30 oil, but I doubt they could give a valid reason why ATF wouldn't work. There are thousands of machines out there 75 years old and older that have never seen synthetic oil and they run fine. The people that swear by synthetic would lead you to believe that nothing can last more than 5 minutes without synthetic. Mind you, I didn't want to start any peeing matches, and refuse to partake in any, this is just my personal opinion.

 

[Bob999]

The TRC UTF red fluid is not synthetic. If your criteria is synthetic it doesn't belong on your list.

As to the suggestion to use ATF I personally would not do that because the viscosity is quite low. While this is great for cold starts it is not likely to provide good performance at operating temperatures. A number of posters have reported going to higher viscosity fluids ( 10w-40/50) to improve hot weather operation--particularly hill climbing.

An alternative is a generic UTF--which should work reasonably well, although the high temperature viscosity is not as good as a 10w-40 oil. It is relatively inexpensive at places like Tractor Supply or WalMart and has more anti wear additives than motor oil.

 

[KMA]

Bob, thanks for the clarification on the TRC UTF Red. Actually, I also read the Chevron Synthetic is actually a blend, and not fully synthetic. I guess whatever I go with doesn't necessarily have to be synthetic, but I figured if I'm spending a significant amount of money, it might as well be. My original post does seem to focus on synthetic, but I'm really looking for the best UTF oil I can get for the money. Do you know anyone that has experience with something like the TSC Premium UTF? I'd be interested in hearing their opinion.

WCH, I appreciate your input. Again, my post stresses the synthetic thing more than I actually intended to. The additives in these higher end hydraulic oils claim to last much longer between changings since they prevent rusting, etc. So far I only put about 75 hours a year on my PT, so the longer the life span the better. I've read that ATF is far too thin for the high temps seen in the PT. Bob mentioned this too. I'm mostly concerned with the performance when running hot, and less about cold weather.

My PT makes that "screeching" sound quite a bit, and I can feel the performance drop on hot days when working hard. I'm hoping a quality oil meant for hydraulic systems will help, plus I'll sleep better believing it will make my machine last longer (whether it actually does or not...). I'm really hoping for someone to mention a great deal on a product similar to the ones I've mentioned.

Thanks for the comments guys. Keep them comin'!

 

[SpringHollow]

If you are concerned about hot weather and mainly use this in the sumer, I would stick with the higher viscosity motor oil. I am saying this out of ignorance but if they wanted a thinner fluid, they would have gone with 5w30. You can ask PT if they recommend the fluids you are considering. One reason they se motor oil is the cost but I believe they are also using it for the viscosity range which is not available in a UTF to my knowledge.

Ken

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Modern ATF is 0w-20, the older stuff (Dexron 3 and earlier) is 10w-30. Modern automotive trannys run hotter than the PT.

 

[MossRoad]

Modern ATF is 0w-20, the older stuff (Dexron 3 and earlier) is 10w-30. Modern automotive trannys run hotter than the PT.

How hot do transmissions run? Just curious, because I do not know. PTs run pretty hot, that's for sure. How hot? I do not know that, either.

If I were going to replace my hydraulic fluid in my PT I would go with as low a bottom number as possible to ease starting, perhaps a 0 or 5, and go with a 40 for the top, because that is what is in there and that is what PT recommended to me. I don't know if I can justify the use of a full synthetic for the cost, figuring $5.00 a quart, $20.00 a gallon or $200.00 for a 10 gallon change. However, if you divide that by say, 5 years, that's only $40.00 a year, or less than a dollar an hour at my current average of 50 hours a year. Hey, I might just talk myself into it.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

How hot do transmissions run? Just curious, because I do not know. PTs run pretty hot, that's for sure. How hot? I do not know that, either.

Ideally, under 210 degrees. Actual, in the tranny, the fluid will get to 275 degrees. This is coming from a friend of mine that has run a tranny rebuilding shop for over 20 years.
Also, cars use the engine coolant to cool the tranny fluid. Most car thermostats open at about 190 degrees, so the medium used to cool tranny fluid is 190 or hotter.
If I owned one of these PT's, I'd be more concerned with having clean fluid in it. One of the jobs of hydraulic fluid is to carry contaminants away from critical components. Many particles are too small for the filter to hold, but large enough to cause wear if left in over time. This is the main reason I am against leaving fluid in for a long time. Leaving synthetic fluid in longer is a big selling point for the synthetic manufacturers, it's a way to justify the cost. But, I want to get those wear particles out of my system. So, I would rather use a dino oil and change it regularly.
This is just my way of looking at it. Other opinions have their merit also.