Best way to level a large area?

[paulsharvey]

Even getting the wrinkles out of the liner is a chore.

 

[ning]

DG packs really well - is that considered "too sharp" after it's packed?
How about landscape fabric on top of the DG, before the pool liner?

 

[dodge man]

You don’t want anything under the liner that is the least bit sharp. I think ours had a pad under the liner but it wasn’t that thick.

 

[paulsharvey]

Ours recommended stone dust, or sand. I actually rented a Yanmar TLB and dug clean "archer fill" sand in a borrow pit in the woods to build up the low side.

One point, you do definitely want that few feet beyond the foot print level and compact as well.


Edit; archer fill is a local name for a clean fill sand, yellowish-orange sand commonly used for house pads and pipe back fill.

 

[DJ54]

***Use your laser to set grade stakes about every 10 ft through the area, with a clear, dark line. Will help to see what needs done. It also makes it pretty easy to pull the string from stake to stake. My preference is put C-1 stakes; IE the line is 12" above the desired grade, and then you pull a string from C-1 to the other C-1, and measure down to grade. That way the string isn't riding the dirt.

Once you get it all within 3"; sprinkle dirt a bit at a time in low areas. To get +/- 1", you will need to do some rake and shovel work too.***

This is the method I used in several pole barns getting the base level ready for concrete. We used the same method on site distance projects getting the base ready for asphalt.

In the pole barns I used the poles 8' O.C. to hook the string to a nail driven into it on the mark I'd made using a dumpy level & grade stake. On road projects we used surveyor's lath to mark on, lath were 20' O.C. Run a bright colored nylon string across, then diagonal and measure down to the surface with a folding rule.

I used a quality yard rake, not all that wide, but easier to handle. Tooth side to rough it, backside to finish.

Around here they use Mason Sand for pool base, easy to rake & finish, no larger grains of sand that can rub on a liner and make a hole.

 

[JeepHead]

If it's a semi permanent, metal wall style, aboveground... You're going to want/need atleast 5 sets of hands. Me and wife tried to install a 60"×24' round, and it about caused a divorce.... I think we ended up 6 people; the bottom channel, the wall (which isn't light, it's both heavy, and floppy), then liner and top channel, and then top "cooping".

The Oval ones are worse, as there are metal straps to keep it oval underneath.

If i do another, I have considered doing something like foam stall mats under the liner.

It's a permanent recessed pool meant to be partially above, and partially below ground. Yes, it is gonna be a nightmare. I have had two estimates to install it, one for $7000 and one for $8000. The company that came out last week to give an estimate said they are the hardest pool to install and a real pain in the a$$. The guy actually said he felt sorry for me that I was going to have to install it myself. LOL But on the day of the wall setup, I can get a lot of hands there to help. And yep, there are metal straps that go from side to side on each of the 16 posts.

 

[JeepHead]

So am in an area that I have access to very clean sand as well as fine grind from the quarry down the road. Both are really clean and would work. I think the fine grind may actually work better than the sand for under the liner as it might not be as squishy. I do have a very thick felt pad that goes under the liner to prevent punctures. I have considered installing foam board as the last barrier before the liner too. This is very stressful project to say the least.

 

[paulsharvey]

Don't worry so much about sand being "squishy" wr are putting 250,000 lbs on top; that sand is going to be firm once the liner is placed and the pool filled.

 

[2manyrocks]

I would worry the quarry fine grind would be abrasive to the liner.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Place two straight 2x4's parallel to each other at the desired grade height, level them, fill the area with sand, and then use a straight board to strike across them. Once one area is filled and tamped use that as the benchmark to set the next board, fill and strike. Keep going until the area is level. Re-check it with your laser or a transit.

You will be placing concrete blocks where the "posts" sit that hold the wall in place. You can also use those to set level by placing them with a transit or laser.

The directions are correct. Do not fill to get the sub base level. The sand will not will not compact as long as the sub base is virgin.