Best way to plumb oil cooler for BX24's?

[bx24]

On hot days when running the engine at speed, the oil temp gets pretty hot on this little machine. It does not show any signs of problems, but I would like it to run a bit cooler.

I was thinking of adding a coil and fan to the hydraulic circuit to directly dump some of the heat.

On the rear of machine there are 3 hydraulic lines:

1- source pressure from pump (high pressure)
2- power beyond (high pressure)
3- return to tank (low pressure)

I am assuming that if I am not using the 3-point, BH or FEL, there is little to no oil returning to the tank from the number 3 line. My idea was to "T" off either line 1 or 2 through a flow control valve and "bleed off" a small amount of fluid back to the tank. I figure this would reduce the "power" available to the BH, FEL etc, but that would give me a small amount of flow to cool on its way back to the tank (under low pressure). Should I go this route or instead get a coil made for the high pressure side and simply cool everything? If I go the high pressure route, does anyone have any good sources for these coils? (I have not check the Surplus folks yet)

Thanks for your ideas

Paul

 

[woodlandfarms]

Is there a filter for your tranny? There are filter adapters that send the fluid to the cooler and then to the filter (or visa versa).

I am not recommending this vendor, it is just what I came up with in a quick google search

Perma-Cool Universal Engine Oil Coolers from AlamoMotorsports.Com!

 

[wdchyd]

bx24,

most mfgs add oil coolers on return side just before the tank that way cooler oil returns back to reservoir after it has gone thu valves and cyls ect...(also cooler does not need to be high pressure)

my new B2320 has a 2 stage pump, 1 stage for FEL & BH and back to tank , 2nd (and smaller gpm) stage goes to steering unit then thru oil cooler then back to tank......I would have preferred cooling it from FEL & BH but thats the way Kubota does it....it does get hot but it does work tho.....seems majority of my heat is definetly from BH Cyls and BH control valve...(checked with Portable IR Temp Gun....(Kubota says 150-170 degrees is norm):thumbsup:

 

[J_J]

I have never heard of high presure coolers. If the did exist, they would be expensive. All the return fluid from the return line could run through a hyd cooler. The cooler tubes need to be large to prevent back pressure on the system. I don't believe those small transmission coolers are designed for that volume of fluid.

Just about all our Power-Trac machines use hyd coolers, with an automatic thermal switch to regulate the fan

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7743

 

[Duff]

When you say Hot, like how hot is it?

Hydraulics get hot, when the impliments are getting used a fair bit, but that does not mean its out of it temperature range.
When I was working in the mines, the machinery hydraulics were getting around 85 degrees celsius or 185 degrees fahrenheit, and you could not touch
any of the hydraulic components or you would burn yourself, and that was normal.

If your machine is getting way too hot, then maybe there are factors that are contributing to these Very hot temperture's.

1/ Operator- Is the operator of the machine, constantly "bottoming" out the cylinders and holding the impliment lever back for too long? Allowing the oil to go over the relief valve for two long? And doing it constantly? A simple change in operating skills, may solve this problem.

2/ Is you hydraulics a bit slow, or slow in some ciruits? You may have internal bypassing, in cylinders, valves, relief valves, quick disconnects. A repair of this internal bypassing, will help solve heating problems.

If you must add a oil cooler, then it must be on your return oil back to tank.
Have you thought about a oil cooler/ heat exchanger using the engine coolant?

Duff

 

[kennyd]

When you say Hot, like how hot is it?

Hydraulics get hot, when the impliments are getting used a fair bit, but that does not mean its out of it temperature range.
When I was working in the mines, the machinery hydraulics were getting around 85 degrees celsius or 185 degrees fahrenheit, and you could not touch
any of the hydraulic components or you would burn yourself, and that was normal.

If your machine is getting way too hot, then maybe there are factors that are contributing to these Very hot temperture's.

1/ Operator- Is the operator of the machine, constantly "bottoming" out the cylinders and holding the impliment lever back for too long? Allowing the oil to go over the relief valve for two long? And doing it constantly? A simple change in operating skills, may solve this problem.

2/ Is you hydraulics a bit slow, or slow in some ciruits? You may have internal bypassing, in cylinders, valves, relief valves, quick disconnects. A repair of this internal bypassing, will help solve heating problems.

If you must add a oil cooler, then it must be on your return oil back to tank.
Have you thought about a oil cooler/ heat exchanger using the engine coolant?

Duff

Good stuff Duff. We need to know what "hot" is for the OP's machine. I suspect it's less than he thinks it is.

 

[bx24]

When you say Hot, like how hot is it?


Duff

Temperature (to the touch) as you say is not a very good indicator. To me, beyond the simple temp gauge getting close to the red line, the biggest thing I noticed was the drop off in power and "sound" of the hydraulics operating. I have a laser themometer, I will take a reading next time it warms up

While the temp may actually not be excessively high, my feeling is that some cooling can only be a good thing when pushing the machine on hot days.

I am not located at the same place the machine is stored so I will have to take a look to see how I can make this work

 

[ayelvington]

I'm following this thread since my hydraulics run hot also. The direction to look at the temp guage is misleading since that is engine coolant and not the hydraulic temperature.

I was working my backhoe hard the other day and baby got quite warm. I'm of the opinion that the little fan under the seat is grossly inadequate for those of us that work our machines beyond mowing the yard with a MMM. A retrofit cooler would be a welcome kit IMHO.

 

[Duff]

" beyond the simple temp gauge getting close to the red line "

Ok so its still in the green then. But yes please get your thermo gun onto it, and get a more accurate reading.
The hot oil at operating temperature, will give you better operating times, as there is less restrictions in flow, than with cold oil.

As far as loss power goes, you will need to check your pressures and do some cycle times ( time how long it takes to lift a bucket from bottom all the way to the top. Compare cold oil to hot oil ).

Remember, there is a engine that drives the pump. Engine starts to slow down under load ( lets say, blocked fuel filters ), then that means the pump does not turn as much, therefore slow hydraulics or loss of power.

Duff

 

[bx24]

" But yes please get your thermo gun onto it, and get a more accurate reading.Duff

Once we get back from vacation, I will see if I can get it hot. This situation has only happened to me when the machine has been run for 1/2 plus at higher RPMs on days when the temp is above 90. I am not worried that the machine will self destruct, but I am confident that the machine would benifit from added cooling. A "shaft" fan blowing on aluminum fins of the pump case would seem to have its limitations.

At this point, the question is not if I will add one, but rather where it will be plumbed into the system. (if anyone has a plumbing schematic please share)

This machine (and others similiar units from JD and MF) are very effective tools for their size, they just don't always seem to be designed with commercial duty in mind ... which is a shame given what they can do