Best way to remove saplings

[AlbertC]

I have about an acre that has a lot of 2" oak and Sweetgum trees as well as a LOT of 1-2 inch wild pear trees. What is the best way to clean this up. I tried chemicals on the wild pear saplings but they always seem to come back. I would like to take care of this problem so that I don't have regrowth. I have a 3930 new holland and a Gannon blade. I seem to recall there is some type of grabber that you can get to pull up the saplings but this seem like it would take a long time. Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

Do you have an FEL on the New Holland, 52-hp, 5,200 pounds?

Your tractor is optimum size to operate a clamp-on Bucket Spade.

The 2" Sweet Gums and 2" Pears will be one stab and a lift. The Oaks might take a little more, depending on soil type and moisture.

LINK:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/258433-florida-planting-sand-pears-kubota.html

http://www.bucketsolutions.com/Quick-Attach-Spade.html

 

[JPRambo]

how about this?
Brush Grubber Heavy-Duty Brush Grubber — Model# BG-08 | Weed Control Brush Removal| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[/pine]

I have one of these grabbers and it works very well...but to use it efficiently you really need a "ground man" to keep from having to stop and get on and off the machine to grab the next sapling...

 

[tractorshopper]

I have found my FEL with toothbar to be very effective at this, even getting 4-5" stuff up pretty good with some work. Pines are by far the easiest. Sweet gum is more difficult. I just pull up and position a tooth at a 30-35 or so angle on the ground 6-8" from the trunk, push the loader down and drive forward (digging in a little), pushing the teeth under the soil to put that tooth under the truck, then I curl and while driving slowly forward and pop the tree out. The 2" stuff may even be easier than that where you can just drive up to it and put the bucket against the trunk a couple or few feet off the ground and push it over until it exposes the root system and then back up and push the root ball up and out. You will get the feel of the sweet spot in similar trees of similar sizes. Your tractor is bigger, stronger, and heavier than mine, so I'd imagine would be even easier for you and you could tackle larger trees than I have.

 

[Iowachild]

I have one of these grabbers and it works very well...but to use it efficiently you really need a "ground man" to keep from having to stop and get on and off the machine to grab the next sapling...

Yes I have effectively used just a 1/4" chain and the FEL, but you still spend a lot of time getting on and off when working alone.

 

[s219]

Brush grubber works great, but as noted you need a helper for the best productivity. I used one extensively to clear saplings. Either pull via wheel traction, or in some cases can lift up using the 3-pt hitch to pop saplings loose.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Bushog them at about 6" height with extremely dull blades at moderate rpm and lo travel speed. Then do it again at scalp height.
larry

 

[RalphVa]

I agree on the bush hog. Do it 2 or 3 times, and they won't be coming back.

Ralph

 

[dave1949]

I have found my FEL with toothbar to be very effective at this, even getting 4-5" stuff up pretty good with some work. Pines are by far the easiest. Sweet gum is more difficult. I just pull up and position a tooth at a 30-35 or so angle on the ground 6-8" from the trunk, push the loader down and drive forward (digging in a little), pushing the teeth under the soil to put that tooth under the truck, then I curl and while driving slowly forward and pop the tree out. The 2" stuff may even be easier than that where you can just drive up to it and put the bucket against the trunk a couple or few feet off the ground and push it over until it exposes the root system and then back up and push the root ball up and out. You will get the feel of the sweet spot in similar trees of similar sizes. Your tractor is bigger, stronger, and heavier than mine, so I'd imagine would be even easier for you and you could tackle larger trees than I have.

I have done a lot of this method. You will get 95% of the roots too. Works great on pine/fir/spruce, poplar, ash, maple, red oak a bit tougher. Works poorly with beech I've found. So, it is species dependent, and ground moisture makes a difference too.

I would certainly give it a try before spending money on additional tools.