BEST way to set up a long water main?

[turnkey4099]

Re pipe: I have over a 1/4 mile run laid back in 1977. PVC mix of Sched 40 and 80 (it was an emergency and I used whatever pipe I could find that day). No problems at all and almost the entire line runs under a farmers field where he uses really big equipment - as D6 and the equivalent wheel tractors, combines with 30 foot headers, etc. There is nothing wrong with PVC for buried lines. It does have one thing that reallyi recommends it - ease of repair and cheap fittings..

re pressure: Caculation for pressure is .43 psi per foot rise so with 60-80 ft rise you need some pretty high pressure at the well head to have useable pressure at the house. Normal pump settings on/off for residence

30/50 - adequate
40-60 - better if you do a lot of irrigation.

To achive that, you will need to have 80 to 100 psi at the well head.

re controller location: Put it with the tank to keep all maintenance items co-located. Where? It doesn't matter but I like the tank in the house - or at least a heated building. Tanks, controllers, etc in a well house are a PIA.

If you put it at the house, it will be set for 30/50 or 40/60, at the well head it will be set in the 80-100 range.

Pressures up around 100 psi for residential equipment are really not good for the pump or fittings. A better set-up is to set pressure on/off of 40/60 at the well head then install a pressure booster pump/tank at the house. That keeps pressures reasonable throughout the system.

One thing I did that was smart (not normal for me) was to put a 110 outlet at the well head when I did the wiring. That has been so convenient over the years. Yes it required an extra run of 12/3 wg but it was worth it.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Re pipe: I have over a 1/4 mile run laid back in 1977. PVC mix of Sched 40 and 80 (it was an emergency and I used whatever pipe I could find that day). No problems at all and almost the entire line runs under a farmers field where he uses really big equipment - as D6 and the equivalent wheel tractors, combines with 30 foot headers, etc. There is nothing wrong with PVC for buried lines. It does have one thing that reallyi recommends it - ease of repair and cheap fittings..

re pressure: Caculation for pressure is .43 psi per foot rise so with 60-80 ft rise you need some pretty high pressure at the well head to have useable pressure at the house. Normal pump settings on/off for residence

30/50 - adequate
40-60 - better if you do a lot of irrigation.

To achive that, you will need to have 80 to 100 psi at the well head.

re controller location: Put it with the tank to keep all maintenance items co-located. Where? It doesn't matter but I like the tank in the house - or at least a heated building. Tanks, controllers, etc in a well house are a PIA.

If you put it at the house, it will be set for 30/50 or 40/60, at the well head it will be set in the 80-100 range.

Pressures up around 100 psi for residential equipment are really not good for the pump or fittings. A better set-up is to set pressure on/off of 40/60 at the well head then install a pressure booster pump/tank at the house. That keeps pressures reasonable throughout the system.

One thing I did that was smart (not normal for me) was to put a 110 outlet at the well head when I did the wiring. That has been so convenient over the years. Yes it required an extra run of 12/3 wg but it was worth it.

Harry K

 

[GaryQWA]

The best system is with the pressure tank and switch at the house.

The best choice for the water line is PE tubing which gives you only two fittings and the least pressure loss/ft of any other type material. You can buy it in rolls from 100' up to 1000' at most pump and plumbing supply houses (here). It has been used for well systems for decades. I suggest 160 or 200 psi rated. You unroll it in the trench and let it go from one side to the other to provide for expansion/contraction without problems. Don't lay it on sharp rock edges or back fill with them on it. You can get it in many IDs but especially 1.5 and 2". It also costs less than other choices and takes way less time to install. You can get it in black or blue. The blue allows you to see damaged spots.

Sch 80 PVC is overkill in this case for underground use but it is used down wells with pumps over 500' deep which is the usual limit for PE.

To run power to from the house to the pump, you'd use 4 stranded regular burial water proof well pump cable correctly sized for the distance and hp of the motor, you can look that up at www.franklinelectric.com. That will be pricey for 600' and a 3 hp pump BUT... that is the best way to do this job and done right, it will last 20+ years without problems. And done right the first time always that saves tons of bucks overall.

http://www.endot.com/support/installation/Application_Notes.pdf?Ins=waterpipe

Gary
Quality Water Associates

 

[GaryQWA]

The best system is with the pressure tank and switch at the house.

The best choice for the water line is PE tubing which gives you only two fittings and the least pressure loss/ft of any other type material. You can buy it in rolls from 100' up to 1000' at most pump and plumbing supply houses (here). It has been used for well systems for decades. I suggest 160 or 200 psi rated. You unroll it in the trench and let it go from one side to the other to provide for expansion/contraction without problems. Don't lay it on sharp rock edges or back fill with them on it. You can get it in many IDs but especially 1.5 and 2". It also costs less than other choices and takes way less time to install. You can get it in black or blue. The blue allows you to see damaged spots.

Sch 80 PVC is overkill in this case for underground use but it is used down wells with pumps over 500' deep which is the usual limit for PE.

To run power to from the house to the pump, you'd use 4 stranded regular burial water proof well pump cable correctly sized for the distance and hp of the motor, you can look that up at www.franklinelectric.com. That will be pricey for 600' and a 3 hp pump BUT... that is the best way to do this job and done right, it will last 20+ years without problems. And done right the first time always that saves tons of bucks overall.

http://www.endot.com/support/installation/Application_Notes.pdf?Ins=waterpipe

Gary
Quality Water Associates

 

[EddieWalker]

Just to clarify.

Once the pipe is in the ground and compacted all the way around, there really is no reasonable limit to how much weight you can put over it. Thin wall to the heaviest wall you can find will handle that easily. As long as it's a foot or more deeper, the dirt will absorb the load and spread it around the pipe. Same principle as a culvert.

The problem with long runs is the movement of the dirt and it's tenedancy to pull the pipes apart, not how much weight is driven over it.

Belled pipe is MUCH better then glued unions because of the greater surface area and strength.

For one inch and below I'd be ok with schedule 40 glued together with clear glue and purple primer. There is allot of difference in your glues. Many water districts will only let you use clear glue because of all the failures with the other types.

With a two inch line like you mentioned, I'd buy gasketed pipe. You have to get the grease to slide them together, and even then you'l need a pry bar and a block of wood to protect the end of the pipe.

It's a two man job because you need one to lign up the pipe and hold it together while the other pry's.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Just to clarify.

Once the pipe is in the ground and compacted all the way around, there really is no reasonable limit to how much weight you can put over it. Thin wall to the heaviest wall you can find will handle that easily. As long as it's a foot or more deeper, the dirt will absorb the load and spread it around the pipe. Same principle as a culvert.

The problem with long runs is the movement of the dirt and it's tenedancy to pull the pipes apart, not how much weight is driven over it.

Belled pipe is MUCH better then glued unions because of the greater surface area and strength.

For one inch and below I'd be ok with schedule 40 glued together with clear glue and purple primer. There is allot of difference in your glues. Many water districts will only let you use clear glue because of all the failures with the other types.

With a two inch line like you mentioned, I'd buy gasketed pipe. You have to get the grease to slide them together, and even then you'l need a pry bar and a block of wood to protect the end of the pipe.

It's a two man job because you need one to lign up the pipe and hold it together while the other pry's.

Eddie

 

[BlueRidge]

<font color="blue"> I'd love to know more about the PE rolls. </font>

Just do a search on "polyethylene pipe roll" and you'll find lots of info. I found a site that sells the stuff, and a bunch of articles.

 

[BlueRidge]

<font color="blue"> I'd love to know more about the PE rolls. </font>

Just do a search on "polyethylene pipe roll" and you'll find lots of info. I found a site that sells the stuff, and a bunch of articles.

 

[Highbeam]

1", 200psi, poly pipe rolls 100' long for 38$ at home depot today.

 

[Highbeam]

1", 200psi, poly pipe rolls 100' long for 38$ at home depot today.