Best way to take steep grade

[narcnh]

Come spring I'll start mowing my lawn with the B7800, most likely with a 72” MMM. Overall, it is pretty level, but in order to get down to the stream and pond there is one steep hill. It is short, but steep. I can get at it from the top or from the bottom (by winding down a couple of trails through the woods to the pond from the other side). With my garden tractor this summer I mowed it going uphill, but had to lean forward to keep the front wheels on the ground. To its credit the little Craftsman did the job. I can use it in this area, if I have to, but one pass with the MMM would do the trick.

Does anyone have a good feel for what the limits are WRT grade with CUTs? I don't think it would be a good idea to go downhill, because I could loose it and go for a ride (ala Henro /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif). But, I don't want to risk flipping backwards, either. Which is safer?

Opinions?

 

[beenthere]

Opinion? Ask someone with experience that can see the hill you are talking about. We can't see it so don't know. I could comment further but won't, other than to say I would go up the hill before trying it going down the first time. I wouldn't try making starts and stops on the way up, and figure out early whether I'd need weight on the frontend. If in doubt, I would do it uphill with the loader mounted for weight the first time.
To me, you will be uncomfortable in the seat long before tipover backward time, and I expect you would lose traction long before, as well. Hmmmph! And I said I wasn't going to comment! So much for that statement. Do you have a picture from the side of that hill? Do you know the slope in %?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I have an area that is simply too steep to take a CUT.

My Cub Cadet does the mowing there. In one spot the hill is so steep that you need a running start, dry ground and the wheels have 75# weights on them AND tire chains just for climbing the hill.

On the other hand, I regularly climb up a slope that goes up to the road, it is probably close to a 20 degree slope and the rise is about 15'. My NH TC24 will only go up in LOW gear range (it only has LOW and HIGH), the B2910 will climb it in LOW or MID range, but will not climb it in the HIGH range.

I never measured the slope, but we got a 10 wheel dump truck stuck on it and had to pull it up with a semi cab that I had out at the property the same day because I had a bulldozer delivered for some work. I was lucky the dump truck got stuck before the guy delivering the dozer left. He helped pull it out and didn't charge a dime. I think he was more amused with us for driving the dump truck down the slope in the first place. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[JerryG]

Go straight up or down it. If the loader is on, have it close to the ground. I have ground that I mow that is 30+degrees and it is no problem. Just make sure that the FWA is on and the ground is dry. Try to do it so that you don't have to stop on the slope.

 

[rbargeron]

I have one area that is very steep - the best way seems to be backing up from the lower level. If you have another way to get down there, backing up is the most controllable. If all 4 wheels start to slip, you can just roll back down and try it when the ground is drier.

 

[narcnh]

Duh (to me). A pic would surely have helped. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Unfortunately, I don't have a good one from before the snow came, and a couple of feet of snow really skews the perspective. I'll post one come spring, since I won't be going near that slope before then, anyway.

Thanks for all the good advice, guys!

 

[JJT]

I have to think that the B7800 is much more stable than the craftsman rider. If you mowed it with the craftsman you'll easliy be able to mow it with the B7800. My suggestions for the first run - leave the FEL on, have it in fwd and lock the diff at the bottom. After a few passes you'll be much more comfortable. You may in time take off the FEL and not lock the rear diff, but ALWAYS use fwd on the slopes.

I have some steep areas that were iffy at best with the small rider, and much easier, faster and safer with the larger tractor.

 

[Henro]

I have a couple spots that are in the 20-degree range as measured with a level, rise over run calculation.

On my Yardman garden tractor they felt steeper than on my B2910. I only go up or down them and feel OK doing that. Sideways...no way. Just does not feel good sideways, or I should say close to sideways...never actually crossed those areas sideways and don't intend to.

Make sure the ground is pretty dry [not real wet under a dry looking surface] and get comfortable by backing up as mentioned previously in the thread. Keep in 4x4 mode. You might even keep your chains on initially.

For me it is not so much tumbling over frontwards [Would have to be REAL steep for that to happen] but more breaking into an uncontrolled slide that is most worrisome.

 

[JMZ]

I'd agree with rbargeron - try it first by starting at the bottom and backing up the hill. At least until you get used to it. But never cut across the slope - always up and down.

Also, definitely keep your four wheel drive engaged. I would keep the FEL on for weight / ballast, and may even your rear blade. Again, until you get used to it.

Good luck!

 

[chrisjbell]

I've got a couple of pretty steep spots on my property that I (foolishly) mow, but I use a 3PH brush hog and back up the hills. If you don't have the mower yet, you might consider a 3PH finish mower. I don't use my tractor for that kind of work so I'm not sure if there's much difference.

But if you are going to tackle a steep slope, *back* up it. The tractor is highly unlikely to flip forward - they almost always go backwards in a front vs. back flip. And if you put some weight on the back (blade, etc.) that will ensure that it won't flip forward. I'd also suggest that you remove the FEL for mowing.

I'm sure that it goes without saying not to try a sideways run. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif