Big first steps towards construction

   / Big first steps towards construction #31  
Jagman

First and foremost because I expect them to go up easily and fast. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif As this will be self built I hope to accomplish with minimal extra help. I choose the ProTec because of resistance to bugs, water, fire. These panels can be stuccoed over on exterior and taped and spackled on interior saving both time and material. As you suggest, weather isn't much a factor, no HVAC at all, just ceiling fans and fireplace. More and more of the newer built houses are using insulation for a more even temp. The 2.5 inch roof panel is more for to minimize sound of the rain - our area gets 120-140 inches a year.
David
 
   / Big first steps towards construction #32  
My brother lives on Oahu, in Millilani, so I know what you're saying about the weather. A lot of the new homes do have A/C tho, will you? It's been HOT there a few times I've visited...
 
   / Big first steps towards construction #33  
Don,

I don't know how I missed this thread....

Anyhoo, we moved into our new home early in January of this year. I have been planing this for decades and we have be actively working for 5 years to get the house built. We are very happy with how things turned out. We had some problems but nothing major.

I designed the house. My builder is a PE and my plans where what was approved. He handled anything that was required for structural issues.

We have a stick built house with bricks. We looked into ICFs but stayed with 2x6 walls with lots of insulation in the walls and attic. The walls have one inch rigid insulation as well so we have something close to R25 walls. So far this year if the humidty is low we can keep the house comfortable with outside temps around 85.

I know there is a Solar Research facility in Florida to help build more energy efficient houses. We have the NC State Solar Center here in NC and they are a very good resource. The wrap around porches will do a very good job of keeping the Floriday sun off the walls of the house and funneling the windw into the house. I don't know if you have thought of using passive solar techniques but they work in our house.

We put in a slab foundation which is not seen that much here in NC but sure is in FL. That slab can be used to moderate your temperature swings. We also tried to put all of the bedrooms and living rooms into the corners of the house. This allowed us to have windows on two sides of a room so we can catch the wind.

We also put in very quiet vent fans in the bathrooms. They fans can be run 24x7x365. The problem we have with them is that they are so quiet we don't always turn them off and forget about them. We also put in a whole house fan in the kitchen. The location was important since it is in the middle of the house and the fan can also double as an exhaust fan if I smoke up the kitchen. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The whole house fan is quiet compared to the fans I have been around but its not quiet enough. If I had to do it again I would look at putting in the vent fans we used in the bathrooms in the kitchen and maybe used a few of them to get the same CFM. They are really queit. The whole house fan works. We have walked into the house, which was too hot, turned on the fan and within 5 minutes we where comfortable. Of course ceiling fans are a must as well.

They other thing that we did was put in recessed lights all over the place. I think we had over 85 cans inside and outside on the porches. I don't like lamps. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif We don't have any. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif We used CF builbs in the recessed lighting. Its expensive up front but we should get 5-10 years out of the lights AND they generate very little heat compared and use less power.

Our May electirc bill had almost no use of energy of AC. The only power we used was for light, fridge, freezer, water heater, well pump, lights, dish washer, waser and drier. The bill was $89. Our old house with noone living there and just the water heater, fridge and lights running came in around $40 for the month. I'm pretty happy with the energy usage.

As you have found out its pretty cheap to run the design thourgh paper. We had dozens and dozens of designs. Graph paper is a wonderful thing to start the process. Mine eventually ended up a CAD program.

If you are interested I can dig up the title and author of a PE that is into building sciences. The guy rights articles in the building trade magazines. I used his book to write up the specification on how are walls where to be built.

Later,
Dan
 
   / Big first steps towards construction
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I'm zipping in from Okeechobee, where I was without my computer for several days (out for a new cooling fan), and I'm whipping off to North Carolina tomorrow, so I don't have as much time as I'd like to respond.

Couple of quickies -- yep, almost everything here is slab built. But, we have a height problem. Our first floor level has to be 18" above the crown of the road, and the crown of the road is 42" above the original grade of our land, so I have to go up at least 60". I don't want to build the house on an artifical mountain, so I built up an area about 200' x 200' to a height of 36", then I'm going to use stem wall construction to get up another 24". I gain a few things I find desirable: a crawl space so I can access plumbing and wiring in the future, a "Florida Cracker" appearance to the porches by being raised 2', and a wood floor base, which I find more desirable than concrete. Our ground never really cools enough to be effective in cooling the house, and there is a valid theory that moving air under the house might contribute a tiny amount to cooling. We don't have to worry about passive heating, or heating of any sort, for the most part. In 33 years in Florida, I don't think we're used artificial heat more than 10 days in any year.

We like the SIPS primarily for noise reduction -- our property is adacent to a state highway, and the house will be about 160' from the nearest lane. The rest of it is ease of construction.

We looked hard at Solar for water heating, but the payback period is too long, even in Florida. We will however, be using solar panels to heat the swimming pool water -- we have such a system on our present house. The systems are much less expensive than for domestic water heating. I'm going to start looking at cost/benefit and payback periods for photovotaic electric production. My architect is interested in this. I'll do it to the extent that it doesn't bust my budget. We have a very finite amount of funds, and we can't -- or, I should say we simply won't, go over budget. Everything is prioritized -- if we want to spend for This, we have to give up That. But, after last year's hurricanes and almost 3 weeks without electricity, a huge amount of priority jumped to a whole-house standby generator system -- maybe something like 40KW! I've found those for around $10K including the transfer switch. So, the more photovoltaics we have, not only will we purchase less power from dear old Florida Flicker and Flash, but we will have a need for a smaller generator. So, there are two potential paybacks. We'll see.

I'd be really interested to learn the brand and model of those quiet fans.

I like can lights, but I also like a variety of other lights. We'll have a Florida farmhouse look, and a few hanging lights and a few wall sconces well look good. We'll also have paddle fans everywhere, but generally not with light kits -- we like more decentralized lighting. We hide a lot of floruescent fixtures behind globes and shades to gain a little efficiency.

I learned to use TurboCad when I had my BBQ grill company; we designed and built custom outdoor kitchens, and I was chief designer (as well as cleaning the toilets and taking out the trash -- the joys of business ownership). I learned 3D design, so that's what I used on the house. When I was done, I could flip it to any elevation or angle. Pretty neat.

I'm not going to have a close enough relationship with a builder, per se, who would do my plans for me. Besides, I only knew one builder who is a PE, and he retired to the NC mountains several years ago. So, I decided to go with an architect. I've only had one meeting with him so far, but I'm pleased, except for his backlog -- I suspect this is going to be a slow process. At least in the couple of hours we spent discussing the basics, he was on the same page of the hymn book with me.

We have some drainage and flooding problems I'm solving, now. The house pad, barn pad and road stayed high and dry, but otherwise I've had about 4" of water over about 2/3 of my 5 acres -- not good. My pond contractor is coming back out to enlarge the pond, and also enlarge my daughter's pond next door, and we'll spread the dirt where needed. Do you know that it takes 8,667 cubic yards of dirt to raise 5 acres by 1 foot? I ain't gonna have that much dirt -- I have to be pretty creative.

The progress this past week, in addition to spreading a whole lot of dirt I already had stockpiled, was that I got my gate and automatic opener installed. along with the solar panel and the keypads for worker/guest entry and exit. Pretty cool. Up until now, I had a temporary gate of hog wire fence that I unclipped and rolled up out of the way.

Like I said, I'll be heading up to NC myself tomorrow, but not to your neck of the woods -- we have a cabin near West Jefferson in Ashe County in the NW corner of the state.
 
   / Big first steps towards construction #35  
Don,

The Journal of Light Construction is the best magazine on the trades that I have found. They have a great website, JLC Onlin, that is an awesome resource. The website has all articles that the magazine has ever published. Nonmembers cannot read the whole articles but they can see summarys and buy them or just join up.

The site also has a very good discussion area. Its open only to people in the trades but I have seen them let nontrade people ask questions.

I found the site invaluable when issues popped up. I could go to the website and find at least one if not more articles on the problem. It helped make right decisions or verify that the decisions made where correct. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Another good site is Building Science Corop. It has information on mold, dumb things to do in the south, books, etc. Its a good place to sit down and read. The owner/partner is Joe Lstiburek. I have read his comments on a variety of websites as well as read one of his books and numerous articles. I think he has his stuff down. I used one of his books to detail my wall specs. He has four books on building in four different climates. They are at this link on his site, Building Science Books by Lstiburek. Me thinks you need the one on Hot and Humid climates. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif For anyone building a house they should read the appropriate Lstiburek book.

The exhaust fans we bought from this site, Energy Federation Inc and we had one of the following fans, I think is is the 20-VQ3 model, Panasonic Exhaust fans. The fans can be bought at other places I just used this website for some reason.

I think we bought this model for the whole house fans, Whole House Fan

One of the code issues we had was that we had to have an exhaust fan in each room with a toilet. That may not seem like a big deal but our toilets each are in a room with a door in the bathroom. For the guest bath the actual bath is also in its own room with a door. For that room we put in the Panasonic fans as well as the main bathroom itself. Code required us to put in the noisy fans in the toilet rooms. We did not like this but it turned out to be a good thing. The Panasonic fans are so quiet we have to turn on the junk fans to remember that the fans are running. If we did this again we would put timers on the fans.

We also put in heaters near the tubs/shower so when the wifey or kids are taking a shower/bath they can warm up the space. Those heaters are on timers. We got the heaters from the same website.

Our house is built up off the ground. Normally here in NC this would be a crawl space but I despise crawlspaces. They can be handy but I just don't like them. The slab on the low side of the house is about 18 inches off the original grade. The high side is a bit over 60 inches. Since we have a slab we filled up the interior with 67 stone. I forgot how many tons. We don't have flooding issues but this gives us a nice view of our land. The land slopes away from the house. The extra hight adds a little something to the view and seems to catch a bit more wind.

We put in tall casement windows either 5 or 6 feet tall. I don't like windows that go to the floor since that prevents putting furniture in front of the windows. I like the windows around 30 inches off the floor. I think our turned out at 28 inches. Sooo, if the windows are 6 feet tall and you add almost 2.5 feet we had to have at least 9 foot ceilings. We decided to go for 10. With the decision to go to 10 we also decided to go with 8' tall doors. All the doors are 36" wide. The large doors and the tall ceilings have good proportions.

One thing we wanted to do but did not have the money was to build a builvedere(sp) or cuppola in the center of the house. At a minimum we wanted to use the cuppola to draw the air out of the house with or without a fan being used. Also it would allow natural light into the interior of the house. But the money was not there for that idea.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Make sure you take some warm clothes to the mountains. One of my coworkers was up there this weekend without warm clothes and he was cold.

Later,
Dan
 
   / Big first steps towards construction #36  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( We will however, be using solar panels to heat the swimming pool water -- we have such a system on our present house. The systems are much less expensive than for domestic water heating. )</font>

Don,

I'm planning on putting in a wading pool that will only be 4 ft deep. I wasn't going to put in a heater since the water will warm up on it's own, it's costs money to buy one and the expense to operate it.

I'm sure you considered not having a heater for your pool, but decided to do so. I was wondering what your reasoning was and what you figure the upfront cost of the solar heating system will be.

Eddie
 
   / Big first steps towards construction
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Pool heaters.. Big subject in Florida; you might not think so, but remember, most Floridians are very used to heat, and we freeze at 60 degrees. We don't use our pools between November and April even with pool heaters; no sane person goes in the water if it's less than 78 degrees, and the air temperature must be warmer than the water.

So. Our first pool had no screen enclosure, so we had no pool heater. A screen enclosure blocks about 30% of the sun. The water temperature was above 80 F from April to October. We moved, however, and our current pool has a screen enclosure. The only way my wife could tolerate it is if the water is heated. We still do not use the pool from November to April, but once things start to "cook", we maintain a pool water temperature of 85 F or so, often above 90 F. That's tolerable to a long-time Floridian. Even I get in the pool when it starts to approach 90.

SO, that's the reasoning. Now, for the method. I used to be a propane dispenser, so I had some price advantages when it came to propane appliances. I was able to find a used propane pool heater for $500. I got it hooked up at the same time as we had the solar water heater installed, so there was really no extra charge for installation. It's rarely turned on; just there for backup for those times when our insane Winter guests insist that they could really use the pool. For example, my wife's sister is from Walnut Creek near San Francisco; her BEST Summer conditions for swimming are not as good as our worst Winter conditions...(slight exxageration, but close). Anyway, we occasionally fire up the propane heater in the Winter, but never for ourselves.

The solar panels are black plastic tubes used for pool heaters but not for domestic water heaters. I once read a long article on the Web as to why that is so, it seemed valid, but I forget most of it. Suffice to say, the pool heater system is nowhere near as sophisticated or expensive. We have a 14' x 30' pool that runs to 6' deep; we have 7 panels on the roof. The flow is controlled by an electric valve with a thermostat and a control unit on the wall; set the temperature desired, and forget about it. When (or if, if the cooler weather) the temperatures are achieved, the valve rotates shut and the water goes back to normal circulation through the filter until the thermostat notices that the water has cooled down, then the valve opens and the water is circulated (by the same pump) up onto the roof, through the panels, and back. Pretty simple. If I recall, the total cost was less than $2,500 installed. The heater panels survived the hurricanes just fine; I had to have them removed before our new roof was installed, and re-installed after, but the insurance company paid for that as well as the roof.

It's a fairly simple do-it-yourself operation to install one. I didn't do my own because my business was still demanding most of my time back then; I can't do it now because of my health, but if I was 20% stronger I could do it easily.

A wading pool will be fairly easy, because it will be shallow enough to get some heat from the Sun, even in Winter, and the shallow depth will allow the cooler water to mix with the heated water better. However, in the Winter, you may not be able to raise the temperature enough to make a Floridian happy. The limitations are on the relative differences in temperature; the cooler it is, the harder it will be to achieve a decent warmth. Most of your guests will be used to colder water anyway, however, and kids seem to generate enough heat when at play that they'll heat the water themselves!

I did a Google search for "solar pool heating" and came up with some great hits, including this one in which they claim to advise you how to build your own system for $100. It's a site for selling on-line books, and I have no idea of the quality or validity of the offering, but that gives you some idea what's out there.
 
   / Big first steps towards construction #38  
WOW. You're building our next house! We're planning on a 80x40 1.5 story gable roof with 3 dormers and a wrap-around porch. You have great taste!

I'm looking into some alternative contruction methods like using 6"x6" or 8"x8" post and beam construction using http://www.socketsystems.com steel joinery.

Or perhaps on-site pre-cast thick rigid foam insulated ferro-concrete wall sections tilted up.

Or ICFs. We're just starting. I bought a Punch! home designer Platinum software package from Costco that thus far is A M A Z I N G. We'll see how it pans out in the long run.

How pricey is the architect? I'm looking to avoid the architect altogether if possible.
 
   / Big first steps towards construction #39  
Don,

Thanks for the info and links. I printed out your response and put it in my "pool folder" with all my other literature.

One of the hardest thing to do is know the right questions to ask when you don't know much about the subject. Like pools.

Eddie
 
   / Big first steps towards construction
  • Thread Starter
#40  
<font color="blue"> How pricey is the architect? I'm looking to avoid the architect altogether if possible. </font>

That was my intention in the beginning, also. I mentioned somewhere that I'm intimidated by architects; they have a reputation for being pricey, only interested in Grand projects, control freaks, poor listeners, etc. I think I found one that fits my goals. In our initial phone conversation, he asked, "Do you plan to serve as your own contractor?" With my heart in my throat, I answered, "Yes..." He replied, "Great!" My relief was immense.

He advertises (in a regular-type, non-bold-face ad in the yellow pages) as both an Architect and as a Home Designer. That was my clue -- there actually is a profession as a home designer, that is considered a step or so below an architect -- they have their own association. The distinction is much the same as between a landscape architect and a landscape designer. The architect has a much more extensive education and had to pass much more rigid requirements to be designated as an architect. In the case of my "find", the fact that even as a full-fledged, professional architect he was willing to advertise as a home designer, gave me the clue that he was interested in working on more modest projects like mine. And, in fact, that turned out to be exactly the case -- he's extremely successful much in demand, but takes on new projects based on how "interesting" they are and by the use of unique materials and methods, rather than by how expensive or ostentatious or prestigious the project. He's a small, one-professional office, but with a couple of full-time CAD draftsmen working for him.

How pricey? I'm still waiting for his final proposal, but his ball-parl figure was $2/square foot. My house will be about 2100 on the first floor and less than 1000 on the loft, so the total should be somewhere around $6,000. This will be cheap if he straightens out my errors, makes valid suggestions and serves, as he promises, as a resource as I build the house, in addition to providing me with a full sets of plans that should sail through the permitting process.

If I hired a contractor, I might get design services for free, but they would still have to be sealed by an engineer, and in my area, a contractor would add as much as $40,000 to the price of the house. I'll gladly spend the $6K, even $8K if it comes to that.
 

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