Big job, total newbies, least # of pieces of equipment to get the job done :)?

[s2dm]

So Very true
I have the L39, Check your hydraulic main, Loader & BH relief valves. There are a ton of them on the M59.
I've got mine set at about 2900 Psig, Kubota specs 2750 Psig. Often they are set low form the factory.

I Just up sized my Curl Cylinders on my Max 28.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...53387-weak-loader-curl-possible-solution.html
That is another option on the M59.

I frankly don't know how anyone who uses the CUT hard can be really satisfied with the loader lift & curl performance.

The loader is much stiffer as well as stronger on a TLB, however professional landscapers will tell you the best tool for most of what they do is a skid steer or even better a CTL and Min Excavator..

That's what we keep hearing, while in the infrastructure and earthmoving/rock moving/trenching phase, that a skid or Ctl and mini ex is a pretty hard to beat combo. We are really looking forward to two machines as well so we can work together.

 

[TheMadOne]

It seems a waste to sell the tractor you have now to buy a CTL, then sell it a few years down the road to buy another tractor. Are you set up as a commercial farm? I know some dealers will lease equipment to farms for a given number of years/hours.

 

[s2dm]

Still really torn on this decision. We've rented a kx71 a few times now and the mini excavator seems to be a go to piece of equipment. We have quite a few rocks, are digging roads, trenching about 1.5 miles of new irrigation, and then leveling a few building sites and digging a pool.

I like the kx71, and it does most of the work, but with the size of our rocks and the hardness of the ground, I do generally really work to pierce the soil and I can spend 20 minutes or more working a rock from a bunch of different angles to get it out.

We are getting ready to buy and debating that versus a kx-121, which I haven't rented yet. Right now, everything is pretty open, eventually we will have an orchard planted. I'm wondering if the added size of the 121 would be a pain down the road? Is the 121 likely to perform that much better in trenching in hard soil etc?

We are also really debating selling our m59. Currently, we primarily use the loader. I got a gannon for it, but the soil is just too hard to really use it very effectively. Going forward, our primary uses are going to be using the loader for moving material, moving a bunch of rocks in the 2000-3000lb range, and running a mower. Thus far I have really not enjoyed switching back and forth between the backhoe and the gannon on the m59, and find myself wanting a SVL75 track loader. But I am wondering if that is overkill for our job, and whether it will be less useful later during the orchard. I don't believe we'll be doing anything that requires a PTO, or atleast, couldn't be done with the hydraulics, basically just running a mower. I know the upfront costs, track and general maintenance costs, and attachment costs are higher. But are their other disadvantages of a CTL in orchard management I might not be aware of? Our lot is a square 10 acres, so speed won't be an issue for most tasks.

 

[DavesTractor]

Still really torn on this decision. We've rented a kx71 a few times now and the mini excavator seems to be a go to piece of equipment. We have quite a few rocks, are digging roads, trenching about 1.5 miles of new irrigation, and then leveling a few building sites and digging a pool.

I like the kx71, and it does most of the work, but with the size of our rocks and the hardness of the ground, I do generally really work to pierce the soil and I can spend 20 minutes or more working a rock from a bunch of different angles to get it out.

We are getting ready to buy and debating that versus a kx-121, which I haven't rented yet. Right now, everything is pretty open, eventually we will have an orchard planted. I'm wondering if the added size of the 121 would be a pain down the road? Is the 121 likely to perform that much better in trenching in hard soil etc?

We are also really debating selling our m59. Currently, we primarily use the loader. I got a gannon for it, but the soil is just too hard to really use it very effectively. Going forward, our primary uses are going to be using the loader for moving material, moving a bunch of rocks in the 2000-3000lb range, and running a mower. Thus far I have really not enjoyed switching back and forth between the backhoe and the gannon on the m59, and find myself wanting a SVL75 track loader. But I am wondering if that is overkill for our job, and whether it will be less useful later during the orchard. I don't believe we'll be doing anything that requires a PTO, or atleast, couldn't be done with the hydraulics, basically just running a mower. I know the upfront costs, track and general maintenance costs, and attachment costs are higher. But are their other disadvantages of a CTL in orchard management I might not be aware of? Our lot is a square 10 acres, so speed won't be an issue for most tasks.

I have 10 acres, about 6 of it in pistachios. I also own a tractor company, so I splurge a little on equipment. I have an older used Takeuchi CTL with a 4-n-1, grapple, stump grinder and forks. Any loader work gets done with this. It is so nice to be able to see your entire bucket edge, you can be quite accurate with little seat time. For digging, I have a 12,000 lb mini-excavator with a thumb and multiple buckets. For PTO work, mowing mostly and perhaps dragging a float, I have a 70 HP 4x4 tractor without a loader. A tractor without a loader is pretty nimble getting around trees and such mowing. And for any long trenching, a ride on trencher. We are soon doing an entire new irrigation system on 10 acres and I have found a trencher to be a better tool than an excavator if you have a lot of ditching to do and if a narrow ditch is adequate. Then dig out the crosses or for the mains with the mini-x. The spoil out of the trencher is fine and sets up nicely by the trench, making backfilling easy. With an excavator, the spoil is normally chunkier, at least in our dirt. Chunkier dirt settles less evening.

As for the size of the excavator, I find a 7500 lb machine is easy to haul and does a great job. But the 10-12k machines handle larger buckets, have a much better reach and lift a bunch more. We sell some used mini-x's and the most popular is the 7500 lb machine. Having said that, the 12k machine will sure out work it. It's all a matter of perspective.

Being able to have a specialized piece of equipment for about any task is pretty expensive. I bought all of my construction stuff used though, and I think at any time I could get most if not all of my money back. And money isn't worth much in the bank now anyway. Might as well put the money into iron and have fun with it.

By far the most common solution to your situation is a mid-size TLB like you own. It's the one tool that can do it all, even if it doesn't do any of it as good as a specialized tool. And that Kubota is a good machine. If it is inadequate either for your tasks or for your patience, it's time to go to a large mini-ex and a large track loader.

I'd certainly not make this suggestion to a young couple just starting out on a small budget. But that's not you.

 

[s2dm]

I have 10 acres, about 6 of it in pistachios. I also own a tractor company, so I splurge a little on equipment. I have an older used Takeuchi CTL with a 4-n-1, grapple, stump grinder and forks. Any loader work gets done with this. It is so nice to be able to see your entire bucket edge, you can be quite accurate with little seat time. For digging, I have a 12,000 lb mini-excavator with a thumb and multiple buckets. For PTO work, mowing mostly and perhaps dragging a float, I have a 70 HP 4x4 tractor without a loader. A tractor without a loader is pretty nimble getting around trees and such mowing. And for any long trenching, a ride on trencher. We are soon doing an entire new irrigation system on 10 acres and I have found a trencher to be a better tool than an excavator if you have a lot of ditching to do and if a narrow ditch is adequate. Then dig out the crosses or for the mains with the mini-x. The spoil out of the trencher is fine and sets up nicely by the trench, making backfilling easy. With an excavator, the spoil is normally chunkier, at least in our dirt. Chunkier dirt settles less evening.

As for the size of the excavator, I find a 7500 lb machine is easy to haul and does a great job. But the 10-12k machines handle larger buckets, have a much better reach and lift a bunch more. We sell some used mini-x's and the most popular is the 7500 lb machine. Having said that, the 12k machine will sure out work it. It's all a matter of perspective.

Being able to have a specialized piece of equipment for about any task is pretty expensive. I bought all of my construction stuff used though, and I think at any time I could get most if not all of my money back. And money isn't worth much in the bank now anyway. Might as well put the money into iron and have fun with it.

By far the most common solution to your situation is a mid-size TLB like you own. It's the one tool that can do it all, even if it doesn't do any of it as good as a specialized tool. And that Kubota is a good machine. If it is inadequate either for your tasks or for your patience, it's time to go to a large mini-ex and a large track loader.

I'd certainly not make this suggestion to a young couple just starting out on a small budget. But that's not you.

@Davestractor really appreciate the advice. In our case the ex would never leave the property other than heading to the dealer for service and they offer free pickup. In that case, in an orchard setting, is a 9600lb unit much of a liability size wise compared to the 7500lb unit? Price is close enough to not be a deciding factor.

We've been buying used units thus far in the 1000 hour range. It's not purely practical either, I really enjoy learning the new skills and having the right tool for the job (you should see my metal and fiberglass shop!). If I can find a job that might take me a few months and a 100 hours on YouTube learning how to do it, and pay for 1/2-3/4 of the cost over a year or two by doing the work, then I generally go ahead and get it and chalk the rest up to spending money on a hobby you enjoy.

I mostly like the TLB, but Heather and I like to work together, so two tools, or even a CTL, Mini ex and perhaps and older tractor without a loader like you suggested is a far more preferable combo. We are also getting ready to dig a pool, level a few large patches for building sites and plant a few thousand trees. So I keep coming back to for the next few years, I could do everything with a mini ex and CTL.

Would the SVL 75 without hi flow hydraulics be able to power a lower flow requiring flail or rotary mower, or is that best with a different tool?

 

[DavesTractor]

@Davestractor really appreciate the advice. In our case the ex would never leave the property other than heading to the dealer for service and they offer free pickup. In that case, in an orchard setting, is a 9600lb unit much of a liability size wise compared to the 7500lb unit? Price is close enough to not be a deciding factor.
new skills and having the right tool for the job (you should see my metal and fiberglass shop!). If I can find a job that might take me a few months and a 100 hours on YouTube learning how to do it, and pay for 1/2-3/4 of the cost over a year or two by doing the work, then I generally go ahead and get it and chalk the rest up to spending money on a hobby
We've been buying used units thus far in the 1000 hour range. It's not purely practical either, I really enjoy learning the you enjoy.

I mostly like the TLB, but Heather and I like to work together, so two tools, or even a CTL, Mini ex and perhaps and older tractor without a loader like you suggested is a far more preferable combo. We are also getting ready to dig a pool, level a few large patches for building sites and plant a few thousand trees. So I keep coming back to for the next few years, I could do everything with a mini ex and CTL.

Would the SVL 75 without hi flow hydraulics be able to power a lower flow requiring flail or rotary mower, or is that best with a different tool?

I doubt you will ever wish you had the smaller excavator of your two choices. It's all a win with the bigger unit for your application.

As for mowing with a CTL or skidsteer, it can surely be done but I don't like it. There are mowers rated for standard flow. I think for clearing brush, a big high flow unit with a mulching head might be a lot of fun. And if you mow with a CTL, you for sure will want air conditioning and a full cab or you eat too much dust. There are some attachments for skid-steers that really do not make a lot of sense unless the skid-steer is the only tool you own.

For normal orchard mowing, get a simple low profile tractor without a loader. Put the loader behind you where it belongs. We are all nuts in our area (pun intended), and 99% of the orchards (walnuts and almonds mostly) use flail mowers. Obviously avocados are an entirely different animal though, and perhaps having a really clean short grass orchard floor isn't as important. It's not like you knock the avocado to the ground and sweep them up like walnuts.

On a mower, consider your tree spacing. My trees are at 19'. I run a 10' Vrisimo flail and that allows a "down and back" and the row is done. If I had a 9', I'd be making a third pass. A 12' wouldn't help as it is still 2 passes. Also, consider that if you are only mowing you can get by with a 2wd tractor. Since you seem to have a good Kubota dealer nearby, I'd recommend something like a low profile 7040/7060. They will run a 10' mower fine. A typical 2wd tractor does a poor job with a loader, but if you have the SVL75 you won't need a loader. And you won't be mowing in the mud, so you won't need it for mowing traction in most applications.

You and Heather are having fun at this, and that is awesome. That's so much of the reason you bought the property I suppose. Hiring it done will often make more sense if you pencil it out, but there is some real satisfaction in doing the work yourself.

 

[s2dm]

How many hours is too many on a mini ex from a rental yard. We had a deal going on one with 1300 hrs which fell through. Our kubota guy found another one through a small mom and pop yard that seems to be pretty well maintained, but has 2400 hrs. They are asking 27500, but our guy thinks we can get it for 25000. I'm expecting some maintenance and a set of tracks, but any idea how much life, worse case scenario, a rental yard 2400 hours unit might have, or what really costly repair could be around the corner?

 

[DavesTractor]

As far as hours on a mini-ex, there is no simple answer. I like 1300 hours, that is a very good number. 2400 hours does not scare me a bit, but I'd be looking at sprockets, rollers, tracks and hydraulics a little more closely. I'd buy a 3500 hour machine also if it was cared for, but the price should be dropping some. And a very well cared for non-rental 5000 hour machine can still have a ton of life left in it.

Sprockets and tracks wear out and aren't terribly expensive. Slight leakage on cylinders and hoses is fairly normal. Not pool on the ground, but an occasional drip is just part of a used machine. Other leaks, especially at the main swivel, can be really expensive.

I started to try to write out all the things to check for, but it gets too extensive. Best to take someone along that has experience and have them help you look it over.

Lastly, construction equipment hour meters show an hour for each hour the unit is running, even if idling. A farm tractor typically shows work hours, meaning that if you run it at PTO speed for one 60 minutes, it will show an hour. If it is idling at 800 rpm it will take 180 minutes to register another hour on the meter. That being said, a piece of construction equipment gains hours on the meter more quickly than a farm tractor.

Get a hydraulic thumb. An excavator without one is lacking. If you can, get a hydraulic quick connect for the bucket. I can change buckets from my seat. I even have a log splitter I can attach to my boom (uses the thumb hydraulics). I can split large rounds into manageable pieces and never strain my back. It's too much fun really.

 

[s2dm]

I made the switch and got the KX040. It's been far and away the most used piece of equipment on the farm thus far, though largely because we are still in the construction phase.
I just sold my M59 and ordered an SVL 75.
My current question is, how useful is a 4-1 bucket? Without the m59 and the Gannon, I have the occasional need to clean/level out orchard access roads, as well as some gravel and mulch spreading. How does the 4-1 do with those tasks, and how is it for picking up piles of cleared brush and branches etc (which a regular bucket struggles with).

 

[DavesTractor]

Get a 4-n-1 bucket and also a grapple bucket and you will be a happy camper. I have both for my TL130 and it's the cat's meow. The grapple is way better with brush and branches of course. I'd recommend one with a skeleton bottom (most are that way) so dirt can fall out. The 4-n-1, if you really know how to use it, saves a lot of time moving materials. You can get that last little bit of a pile also without needing a shovel to clean it up. And you can dump quickly, especially up high into a dump truck/trailer as you can tilt the bucket a little and open it quickly and the bucket is empty. And it does better than a normal bucket by far on brush.

As far as just grading with the standard front bucket vs a 4-n-1, I don't see a big difference. It takes some practice to do a really nice job and seems more a matter of skill than of bucket type for finish grading.

I'm not a pro operator, just a guy that likes to tinker with tractors on my acreage. Others that run these things daily may have more valuable opinions.