Big Torque Wrench

PILOON · Mar 10, 2015

Just got to add my experience with torque wrenches.

I have rebuilt sports car engines, heads, aircraft components etc etc.
The only times I ever stripped threads were the times I relied on a torque wrench to stop.
I can tell you I just don't give a sweet G-- D--m what that torque says. I stop when my fingers say stop.
OK, I have worked with tools for over 50 years on everything from scooters to aircraft engines and rusted rims to autopilot slip clutches so I have developed a 'feel'.

Laugh as you may but different tools have each their particular 'feel'.
Maybe I just have snapped more than my share of rusted bolts or studs but I just know when to quit and get the heat.

o2batsea · Mar 11, 2015

Do you really think your rear wheels are going to go flying off into a ditch if you ""only" have 150 ft lbs on the nuts?

pmsmechanic · Mar 11, 2015

o2batsea said:
Do you really think your rear wheels are going to go flying off into a ditch if you ""only" have 150 ft lbs on the nuts?

Well I've had it happen. It wasn't terribly serious but I lost five out of the six bolts holding my rear wheel on while mowing around the yard. The first I noticed it was that the rear end was going up and down. I didn't do any damage and was able to finish mowing by stealing three bolts from the front wheel but now I use a torque wrench on any wheel lug bolts.

Brad_Blazer · Mar 11, 2015

I have this one I picked up for cheap. I use an adapter if I want to use 1/2" drive sockets. The 33" handle is nice.
3/4" Torque Wrench

Coyote machine · Mar 11, 2015

VictorW said:
I have this torque wrench from this company for the tractor and my truck wheels. CDI 2502MRMH
I have also bought two others for other specs while working on things. They come with a certified test sheet and I had one checked locally and it was as the test sheet specified. Prices are reasonable and the wrenches are built well. The person at the local test place told me the CDI brand is a division of Snap On. Just thought I'd throw this out if someone is shopping around.

Is the link data a typo? It says in(ch) lbs, not ft lbs? I suspect since you're using it on your tractor/truck that it is in fact ft lbs, yes?

o2batsea · Mar 12, 2015

pmsmechanic said:
Well I've had it happen. It wasn't terribly serious but I lost five out of the six bolts holding my rear wheel on while mowing around the yard. The first I noticed it was that the rear end was going up and down. I didn't do any damage and was able to finish mowing by stealing three bolts from the front wheel but now I use a torque wrench on any wheel lug bolts.

I don't see Kioti tractors listed among your possessions. Are you saying that the tractor that the wheel nuts came off was a Kioti with 150 lb of torque on the nuts?

pmsmechanic · Mar 12, 2015

o2batsea said:
I don't see Kioti tractors listed among your possessions. Are you saying that the tractor that the wheel nuts came off was a Kioti with 150 lb of torque on the nuts?

No I'm not saying that. I pointing out that if fasteners are not torqued to more or less proper values they can come out. That's all.

oldpilgrim · Mar 12, 2015

how do you guys torque down the rear wheels when you have the deep dish one piece wheels that come with the R4 tired tractors? A long extension is needed and you just can't put much torque on one of those bolts way in there.

ritcheyvs · Mar 12, 2015

oldpilgrim said:
how do you guys torque down the rear wheels when you have the deep dish one piece wheels that come with the R4 tired tractors? A long extension is needed and you just can't put much torque on one of those bolts way in there.

I use the shortest extension that will work, support the ratchet head with my left hand and apply the main force (usually down) with my right hand.

PILOON · Mar 12, 2015

oldpilgrim said:
how do you guys torque down the rear wheels when you have the deep dish one piece wheels that come with the R4 tired tractors? A long extension is needed and you just can't put much torque on one of those bolts way in there.

One way would be to use those color coded torsion rods that many tire shops now use.
They usually come in a kit of 5 or more, about 6" long.
As an example 1/2" fine thread uses 3/4" nut and all studs are of a given grade (12?)so the torque is a standard SAE spec.
Standard metric specs also exist.
Generally the tire guy simply uses an air gun and cranks it up all the way with the torque bar setting the limit for that size thread/nut.
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LOL, the garage always installed my rims so tight that I needed a 3 ft pipe to crack the nuts.
Based on that fact I simply tightened as much as I physically could with my 3/8 breaker bar and figured I was good to go. Never lost a rim!