BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must?

   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #11  
From this to this .
 

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   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #12  
Made my removeable tooth bar with buying bucket teeth $50 a piece and a piece of scrap steel laying around the shop. It's easily removeable with 2 bolts that tie into the sides of the bucket. Couple hours work, couple of buds, worth its weight in gold. 🍻
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #13  
Hey Everyone.

I'd like a tooth bar for a project that will probably consume about 30-50 hours, only problem is that I don't believe i need one long-term. I enjoy fabricating, but don't want to invest time into something that will become a boat ancor within a few hours.

I have access to a cnc laser, and am pretty handy with my grinders and welder, so I was thinking of making a 'piranha' style unit out of some 1018.

Material being worked would be ripping up a lawn, a lot of course sand, and a good amount of clay\sand with sporatic potato-sized rocks.

This would be on a Massey GC2300/BX23 sized SCUT.

will 1018 cut it (pun intended)?

Thanks.

I'd be very surprised if a SCUT could push a tooth bar hard enough to cut sod roots. Depends on soil.
 
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   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #14  
My BX has lifted a lot of sod and moved it where it was needed. No tooth bar and turf tires. Just need the right ground moisture. Now if you want to do it in hard ground or mud it's a no go. My LS with tooth bar peels up turf even if I don't mean to, in rock hard clay.
Real problem is to keep the sod flat in the bucket not wad it all up. If it is flat you can set it down right where you want. Slow and tedious but better than shovel and/or getting out of the seat.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Made my removeable tooth bar with buying bucket teeth $50 a piece and a piece of scrap steel laying around the shop. It's easily removeable with 2 bolts that tie into the sides of the bucket. Couple hours work, couple of buds, worth its weight in gold. 🍻
This has crossed my mind a few times. It's the combination of teeth and the 'holder' (forget what it's called) that makes it too expensive for low use. If I needed something replaceable on a budget, and/or had a very large machine, this would be something to consider.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Anyone notice that the piranha tooth bar doesn't disclose the material they use? Anyone want to prove me wrong?
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #17  
You can have 1018 case hardened. It's just a thin, hard case but it might be an economical compromise.

Or, since you're designing your own teeth, you could make their profile with a depression that supports a small, properly hardened insert, or a replaceable soft insert.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #18  
I have a pirahna bar on my 2538 and have used it hard, it is still very sharp , Ar 400 or harder.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #19  
Anyone notice that the piranha tooth bar doesn't disclose the material they use? Anyone want to prove me wrong?


I'm not sure what its made of, but its harder than the original edge on my bucket. 3 years and a lot of digging, and it's still sharp. It's also seen a lot of abuse peeling ice from my driveway. Driveway took a beating, toothbar still looks great. One thing I notice is that it doesn't rust very easily. My bucket usually sits most of the winter, and everything made of mild steel gets rusty. Not the Piranha bar.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #20  
If you make a tooth bar I doubt you will take it off. I have a wicked on my 78” bucket and I use it to grade the driveway. Also having another cutting edge bolted on does a better job back dragging. The teeth don’t leave huge furrows like many would think. I use it with my box blade to bust up my 1/4 mile crushed asphalt drive. I have stripped sod with it but a box blade would be much easier. Better view of your depth and control.
 
 
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