Question for yall, My BX2350 just hit 100 hrs and did have the 50hr service performed at the dealer. I'm going to to the 100 myself, pull the deck clean, scrub and replace the blades with a blade more suitable for mulching. The Two questions I have is how to balance the 3 blades (chalk MarK)? And while I have the deck off what coatings to you suggest if any? There are quite a few at TSC and want to do it right. Thanks John
Grading Blade Balancing???
- Thread starter JD F350
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thatguy
Elite Member
You can try balancing the blades on a nail driven straight into the wall.. I found that does an OK job, but you cant get the front to back balance (picture how it mounts and mows).. Im not exactly sure how important the front to back is though.. but i am assuming it would cause some vibration
I just bought a balancer at Lowes (<$10) that is very similar to the old tire balancers.. With it you get the side to side and front to back balance.
This spring I applied Slip Plate (a graphite undercoating with 2 or 3 coats) to my deck and but im not sure that it works that great.. In spots it looks like it already wore off.. I am going to take the deck off and pressure wash it soon and will pass judgement then..
good luck
brian
I just bought a balancer at Lowes (<$10) that is very similar to the old tire balancers.. With it you get the side to side and front to back balance.
This spring I applied Slip Plate (a graphite undercoating with 2 or 3 coats) to my deck and but im not sure that it works that great.. In spots it looks like it already wore off.. I am going to take the deck off and pressure wash it soon and will pass judgement then..
good luck
brian
RedDirt
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2007
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Northern Idaho
- Tractor
- Kubota BX23, Wards 16HP HST Garden Tractor, (previous) D2 Logging Cat
I sharpen my own blades too. When I bought a new set I made a tracing of the original so I could compare every few sharpenings that I was maintaining a shape similar to original.
For balancing I use the blade balancer thatguy mentions. It is cone shaped with stepped ledges, sits atop a pin mounted to a stand, and the blade center hole sits in the appropriate sized cone ledge. I set it on a level work surface and use a board "feeler gauge" to compare one side to the other (distance from work surface to blade tip).
I don't cross weigh one blade to the next, meaning I don't make each one the same weight, only that it is balanced by itself.
For a small out of balance I sharpen the heavy side more. For big out-of-balance you can grind a notch on the backside of the blade with an "L" head grinder to remove more weight faster but I've not needed to do this...yet.
I sharpen with a 7" "L" head grinder with the blade clamped in a vise. Then, if I have the time, I dress it with a flat file taking the last pass flat against the back side to remove the burr. Wear heavy leather gloves when filing! No, I have not cut myself, just a precaution that I don't.
For coating, there was a thread not long ago about a coating to get dirt to slide from a dump truck. Several of the posters had luck with a coating mentioned there when using it on their mowers. Sorry, can't remember the post or the coating name.
For balancing I use the blade balancer thatguy mentions. It is cone shaped with stepped ledges, sits atop a pin mounted to a stand, and the blade center hole sits in the appropriate sized cone ledge. I set it on a level work surface and use a board "feeler gauge" to compare one side to the other (distance from work surface to blade tip).
I don't cross weigh one blade to the next, meaning I don't make each one the same weight, only that it is balanced by itself.
For a small out of balance I sharpen the heavy side more. For big out-of-balance you can grind a notch on the backside of the blade with an "L" head grinder to remove more weight faster but I've not needed to do this...yet.
I sharpen with a 7" "L" head grinder with the blade clamped in a vise. Then, if I have the time, I dress it with a flat file taking the last pass flat against the back side to remove the burr. Wear heavy leather gloves when filing! No, I have not cut myself, just a precaution that I don't.
For coating, there was a thread not long ago about a coating to get dirt to slide from a dump truck. Several of the posters had luck with a coating mentioned there when using it on their mowers. Sorry, can't remember the post or the coating name.
bigdad
Platinum Member
I never have much trouble with balancing my blades, but I remove them often to touch them up so there isn't a whole lot of metal being removed at one time. It's kind of a pain to get them off if you can't get the mower in the air. I drive mine up on the ramps of my trailer just so the front wheels are on the deck, then crawl under. (Brakes and block the wheels)
As for the deck coating: I use that slip plate stuff. It works better than nothing, but depending on what type of grass etc. you are mowing, moisture and sand, stuff is going to get stuck on. For those that mow in sandy areas.... from what I have read, even the metal gets removed! I give my deck a good cleaning and coating at the end of the season if nothing else to ****** any rust/corrosion. It's a battle my friend.
As for the deck coating: I use that slip plate stuff. It works better than nothing, but depending on what type of grass etc. you are mowing, moisture and sand, stuff is going to get stuck on. For those that mow in sandy areas.... from what I have read, even the metal gets removed! I give my deck a good cleaning and coating at the end of the season if nothing else to ****** any rust/corrosion. It's a battle my friend.
jdsafeman
New member
Someone else on this forum recommended Mo-Deck spray from Tractor Supply. I was skeptical but desperate. Tried a can on a clean deck and it worked great even in tall wet grass. No clogging or build-up.
