Snow Attachments Blade for snow removal

[Mike_Kanzer]

I am in the process of buying a Kubota L3830 and wanted to get a blade for snow removal. We have a dirt and gravel lane which is about 1/4 mile long. In southern chester county PA we get usually about 30 - 40 inches of snow a season with occasional storms dumping up to 10" I was thinking of getting a front blade to attach to the FEL assembly but the salesman said I could do just as well with a rear blade and using the FEL together. It would be cheaper and the rear blade would also be useful for other things (ie. grading). Does anybody have experience using a rear blade for snow? Does this sound like a good alternative? Thanks for any input.

 

[beenthere]

Over the years, there have been many good discussions of this very thing. Do some searches on blades, snow plows, and you will find a ton of information to help you with your decision.

Welcome to the forum. There isn't one answer to your question. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[ronjhall]

Many TBNer's use a back blade for snow removal. Here is a thread with suggestions on using one to move snow. Click Here
If you have problems looking back you may not like a rear blade. FEL bucket will also move a lot of snow.

 

[RoyJackson]

I think you'll find the majority of TBNer's who plow use rear blades. Blowers are pretty expensive for such a seasonal implement.

Some folks operate in reverse to push the snow. I do as well. However, last winter I set the blade about an inch or so above the full down position and drove forward. That worked quite well. The finishing pass was done in reverse, but with only an inch or so left on the drive, it was a piece of cake.

I was using a Deere 790 with an ancient 72" blade.

It is better to use the convex side of the blade if you're going to clear the snow right to the gravel. The concave side digs in too easily.

I'm also in southern PA (York County) so our snow accumulations are pretty similar.

I do suggest you start plowing when the snow depth gets between 6"-8". Your Kubota is a bit larger and more powerful then my 790...you could probably use a 7' blade.

And, of course, that blade might come in handy during the Spring, Summer and Fall...unlike the blower.

 

[Slamfire]

I'd recommend using Roy's suggestion and suspending the blade just above the gravel line, you are trying to push the snow off the drive, and the gravel will go too, if you set it on the ground. Go real slow and try not to declutch, you'll lose traction in a heart beat. From some one who grew up in Northern York County were the snow really gets deep. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[bczoom]

Mike,

I use the FEL in the front, blade in the rear setup over here on the other side of the state.

I concur with the other posts but want to throw out one more tidbit. Consider using a cheap bolt (probably no thicker than 3/8") as a shear pin to lock the blade angle, especially when going in reverse. The 3-point setup is designed for lifting and forward pulling. When going backwards, if you snag on or hit something hard on one side, you can damage your 3PH (don't ask how I know...). Create a weak link that'll snap to avoid this potential.

Brian

 

[hhw]

Hello and welcome,

All the information in these great posts hits the nail on the head. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I'm in southern Adams Co. and almost everybody here does the reverse rear blade drill and uses FEL for "deep" areas. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif You know, when you have to take some off the 3 foot drift and pile it back some, so you can finish with the blade. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I think I said that correctly? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Mike_Kanzer]

Thanks for the input guys. The rear blade sounds like it will work well for the snow and I'll be able to use it the rest of the year for grading and leveling.

 

[crown]

The FEL and rear blade set-up should work very well for you. I live in the northern shenandoah valley in Winchester we don't get quite the snow you guys get but do get the occational 12 to 24 inch snow usually once a year. I own a B-7500 MUCH smaller /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif than your L 3830 and I had no problems just had to keep up with the snow and not tackle the whole 3 feet at one time. I would suggest using the blade with the blade facing in reverse as it is not nearly as aggessive this will help protect your gravel.

 

[Deerlope]

I got a 71/2 foot power angle on my Fel and it works super. Throw the 2 levers for the bucket and attach the plow. PM me your e-mail and I will send you some pic's of how mine looks. I use the remote for the power angle. I do beleive there are some pic;s posted in here some place maybe. If I need to push the banks back I put the bucket on takes about 4-1/2 minutes to change over.

 

[Deerlope]

Plowing snow going backwards makes about as much sense as have a screen door in a submarine.

 

[RoyJackson]

"Plowing snow going back wards makes about as much sense as have a screen door in a submarine. "

It actually works quite well, if one is plowing a shorter drive...say 150' or so.

My blade cannot swing 180° so to use the convex side of the blade, I've no option but to run in reverse.

Since driving forward (with the blade about an inch above the gravel) worked so well, that's the way I'll plow anything more then 5" in the future.

Maybe you think running in reverse makes no sense, but that's only in your circumstances... In mine, it does, sometimes.

 

[Deerlope]

My opinion is my own and that is all it is. After I had posted the above I new there would be repercusions. Sorry didn't mean to step on any toes.

 

[Slamfire]

I don't know, Roy, maybe he's afraid of sinkin' in that lake effect snow up there in the 'dacks. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Varmintmist]

The back blade will do a fine job. I run forwards, concave side in the snow, normally I shorten the top link so that it is almost vertical so the gravel loss is lessened. Once the gravel freezes second snow or so it wont matter any more.

I found that running the blade concave side out tends to ride over the snow. I roll the stone back on the drive in the spring.

The bolt idea is a good one. Wish I thought of it before I had to get my backblade welded back together.

 

[couchsachraga]

Well, I've bent 1 nice 84" Woods backblade into a rather impressive "U" shape pushing snow out of my driveway. I know, better the back blade than something on the tractor.... Whether it was a rock frozen in or a root, I'm not sure, but it really doesn't matter. For this winter I'm trying to set up a truck plow blade on back (complete with angle ). I'm hoping the trip edge will keep any damage to the machine (or blade) to a minimum. The blade was cheap (free), and the modifications were relatively inexpensive. A little welding should finish it up nicely....

Adam

 

[kingoflawns]

The kubota 2019 power angle front blade plows very well. It attaches to the same front subframe as the snowblower!

 

[skivt]

OK, now I am convinced to keep that $1,600+ in my pocket for oil and use my BB to clear my 500' gravel driveway. If worst comes to worst, I will just get extra set time. Good post.
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
skivt