Blades on a box blade

[Catman8]

Yep, they are the right size. Bummer.

I don't understand how EA is assembling their BB without having this problem? They must just hammer the bolts tight with an impact and call it good.

I'd be curious to know if all of the cutters they have used from this provider have this problem?

I can't even think of anything to offer......

Most production shops use impact guns and if I was using an impact gun, i bet that's exactly what I would of done without knowing, sucking the square into that round hole, so they probably don't even know it's happening.

The link Pat provided has some bolts that are called (Repair head plow bolts) they look like they have a tab on one side to catch from spinning, I think that's what their purpose is. If I was going to use shims to straighten the blades I would not have to worry about the outside bolts, only the inside ones.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Yep I would get a half dozen of the most likely profiles/sizes. One of them will likely solve the problem. Maybe on both blades.

 

[ovrszd]

I deal with grader cutters all the time. My pics are of a new pair of cutters installed with bolts that are five years old. They have been used to wear out half a dozen pairs of cutters rotating them a dozen times each. The square shoulder of the bolt never touches the moldboard. That contact would limit the bolt's ability to wedge the cutter tightly to the moldboard and prevent movement.

 

[Catman8]

I posted a note to Travis for some help and input, I'm sure when they get a chance they will chime in and help with this minor service problem


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/165292-everythingattachments-com-82.html

Post #816

 

[Catman8]

I deal with grader cutters all the time. My pics are of a new pair of cutters installed with bolts that are five years old. They have been used to wear out half a dozen pairs of cutters rotating them a dozen times each. The square shoulder of the bolt never touches the moldboard. That contact would limit the bolt's ability to wedge the cutter tightly to the moldboard and prevent movement.

And after you wedge that square shoulder into a round hole and add a year or two worth of rust I bet your going to be using some colorful words when trying to remove those bolts.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Another option would a hex drive cap screw with flat head. This would give full bearing on the bevel and allow full tightening against the mount.

 

[Catman8]

Another option would a hex drive cap screw with flat head. This would give full bearing on the bevel and allow full tightening against the mount.



View attachment 497919

That's another option, it gives you a way to hold the cap in place, what grade of bolts are you suppose to use in a cutter, these bolts have three lines, grade 5. I'm guessing why they don't use those bolts is because the Alan head would get damaged by rocks and dirt and when you tried to remove them you would no longer be able to get an Alan wrench in the hole to hold it from spinning.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

I posted a note to Travis for some help and input, I'm sure when they get a chance they will chime in and help with this minor service problem


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/165292-everythingattachments-com-82.html

Post #816

Yes, and last Friday, I left messages in 3 different ways(phone, email, TBN PM) for you to give me a call. I haven't received a call.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Problem has been resolved. From now on, we will send all of our products out fully assembled and painted so that any possible issues will be caught prior to shipping.
Travis

 

[Catman8]

Problem has been resolved. From now on, we will send all of our products out fully assembled and painted so that any possible issues will be caught prior to shipping.
Travis

:confused3::mur:

 

[npalen]

It would not be impossible to make some cone shaped washers to make up for the countersinks being too deep. Would require a lathe, however.
Bet you could almost make some common flatwashers work by sucking them down into the countersink with a torque wrench on the bolt to take up the extra space.
Had to throw my two cents in here, couldn't get a word in edgewise above.

 

[Catman8]

It would not be impossible to make some cone shaped washers to make up for the countersinks being too deep. Would require a lathe, however.
Bet you could almost make some common flatwashers work by sucking them down into the countersink with a torque wrench on the bolt to take up the extra space.
Had to throw my two cents in here, couldn't get a word in edgewise above.

Thank you for your suggestion, very helpful and appreciated :thumbsup:

 

[Xfaxman]

I have been communicating by PM with Travis:

Originally Posted by EverythingAttachments

I am no longer responding to this guy on TBN.
This is ultimately the resolution, as I said on the forum: From now on, we will send all of our products out fully assembled and painted so that any possible issues will be caught prior to shipping.

There are slight variances with the recessed holes in the cutting edges. They are US made edges...the best we know of.
If he will simply tighten the cutting edge with the bolts, it will be tight and perform perfectly as it should and always has for the thousands of box blades that have shipped prior to his.
It will not move. We have some here just like it and you have to raise them up with a forklift and get about 4 inches from it to see any sort of minuscule, trivial gap.

To please the future customer that will never see this gap unless they see the ridiculous thread started by mr cat, we will be making the holes in the moldboard slightly larger, but still round, so the square will fit through. It will be a tight fit and will probably require a hammer when you change the edge.

Feel free to share the nice information with the thread. I am not getting back in it. This dude is craaaaazy left field & I have been too busy to humor him.

Things written in a post can be taken the wrong way or different ways by the person reading it.

So Travis is out of this thread.

 

[ovrszd]

Problem has been resolved. From now on, we will send all of our products out fully assembled and painted so that any possible issues will be caught prior to shipping.
Travis

Have you tested a bolt thru a cutter to see if the square shoulders protrude? Still wondering if somehow the bolts and the cutter aren't a match??

Are your cutters all the same thickness? If not, are the same bolts always used?

I'd also wonder if any EA BB owners have removed a cutter for any reason and noticed a similar problem?

 

[ovrszd]

So Travis is out of this thread.

For the second time.

 

[Catman8]

For the second time.

If you read post # 153, that is what Travis is telling us, all there blades are like the one I have, and even if the square shoulder is being wedged into the hole and there is a gap between the cutter and the back plate that it is still tight and should not matter, but in an effort to appease us, they will start cutting the holes bigger in the box scraper to accommodate the square shoulder protruding out the back of the cutter.

 

[Catman8]

I have been communicating by PM with Travis:

Originally Posted by EverythingAttachments

I am no longer responding to this guy on TBN.
This is ultimately the resolution, as I said on the forum: From now on, we will send all of our products out fully assembled and painted so that any possible issues will be caught prior to shipping.

There are slight variances with the recessed holes in the cutting edges. They are US made edges...the best we know of.
If he will simply tighten the cutting edge with the bolts, it will be tight and perform perfectly as it should and always has for the thousands of box blades that have shipped prior to his.
It will not move. We have some here just like it and you have to raise them up with a forklift and get about 4 inches from it to see any sort of minuscule, trivial gap.

To please the future customer that will never see this gap unless they see the ridiculous thread started by mr cat, we will be making the holes in the moldboard slightly larger, but still round, so the square will fit through. It will be a tight fit and will probably require a hammer when you change the edge.

Feel free to share the nice information with the thread. I am not getting back in it. This dude is craaaaazy left field & I have been too busy to humor him.

Things written in a post can be taken the wrong way or different ways by the person reading it.

So Travis is out of this thread.

I'm very disappointed in the TBN members, you could of all told me that this was a mental health issue, and all along I thought it was a cutter alignment issue. :confused2:

 

[ovrszd]

If you read post # 153 that is what Travis is telling us, all there blades are like the one I have, and even if the square shoulder is being wedged into the hole and there is a gap between the cutter and the back plate that it is still tight and should not matter, but in an effort to appease us, they will start cutting the holes bigger in the box scraper to accommodate the square shoulder protruding out the back of the cutter.

The cutter can't be tight on the BB if there's a gap after tightening. Using your product as an example, the cutter isn't designed to use that bolt, or the bolt isn't designed to be used with that cutter.

When I swap grader cutters I wire brush the moldboard and the backside of the cutter. Then using an air hose I blow away the dust. I need the backside of the cutter to be tightly mated to the front side of the moldboard or they will work loose. I understand that I'm stressing the cutter more than a small BB. Everything should match up without compromise.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm very disappointed in the TBN members, you could of all told me that this was a mental health issue, and all along I thought it was a cutter alignment issue. :confused2:

The person with the problem is always the last to know........

 

[Catman8]

The cutter can't be tight on the BB if there's a gap after tightening. Using your product as an example, the cutter isn't designed to use that bolt, or the bolt isn't designed to be used with that cutter.

When I swap grader cutters I wire brush the moldboard and the backside of the cutter. Then using an air hose I blow away the dust. I need the backside of the cutter to be tightly mated to the front side of the moldboard or they will work loose. I understand that I'm stressing the cutter more than a small BB. Everything should match up without compromise.

I don't think EA should be cutting bigger holes in their box blade to accommodate for the square shoulder, they should be calling the blade manufacturer and tell them to come pick up their over drilled product and bring us properly manufactured cutter blades. As you pointed out, there needs to be enough material so the shoulder does not protrude past the back of the cutter. Travis mentioned in his PM above that you will need a hammer to change the blades, if they are installing them like we have discovered, you bet your going to need a big hammer.