BLock Heater install project - BX2350

[Dusty]

Your tractor will start in cold weather, but it won't like it. It will bang and thrash around until the engine gets warm. As shown in the pictures, it is next to impossible to do anything wrong removing the freeze plug. If you are concerned about it going into the block, then have the dealer do the install. I never recommend that someone do any mechanical operation that they don't feel comfortable doing. Either way, you should have a block heater installed, even if you have to pay to do it. The reduced wear and tear on your tractor will more than offset the cost of the heater and installation. Dusty

 

[Renob]

Slapped the block heater in the BX24 today. Went in without a hitch!


Chaliebrn - Killian's sounds good, but went with a Labatt's Blue to complete the project!

Fishpick - As Dusty said, It is almost impossible to mess up the freeze-plug removal. The way the block is designed there just isn't enough room for this plug to fall in the block.

 

[fishpick]

I'm still thinkin' about it... I'm not really that worried about the job... just not sure I need it for the time/reward factor to kick in.
Did you paint yours too? Or just drain, KO the plug, jam the new one on in and drink a beer?

 

[Charliebrn]

Not sure if Renob painted it or not, but Kubota recommends it to prevent corrosion. I agree...it just looks like it needs painting....

Renob: Good second choice on the Labatts! *cheers*

 

[fishpick]

OK - I hate to do this because this thread seems to spring up everywhere... BUT... what color paint did you use to match the block and where did you get it... (see, sounds like I'm gonna do it, huh?)

 

[Renob]

I used Plasti-Kote Engine Enamel Universal Gray that I purchased at TSC.

It seems to be a good match. At least in an area that will never be seen.

 

[kdlklm]

have any of you used the magnetic block heaters that go on the bottom of the oil pan. Or are they any good.

 

[bigdad]

Yessir..... I have used them. Old air cooled trencher engines to be exact. Also used them on fuel tanks for diesel trucks. I tried one on my 7510 and couldn't get enough surface for the mag to work. Ended up with a prefered block heater, which is noted here on this forum somewhere.

Be careful...they get hot!

 

[MOPAULY]

Another option, if they still make them, is the dipstick tube oil heater. Keeps the oil warm and the engine easier to turn over. Nice and clean for those mechanically shy, nothing to take apart on the tractor.

 

[cp1969]

With the variety of thin oils (especially synthetics) available, heating the oil is probably not nearly as beneficial as it once was.

The block heater adds warmth where it is needed most--the combustion chamber.

 

[Rfisher7381]

Just installed my block heater. These excellent instructions made the job a breeze.

 

[devildog1]

Where are they?
DevilDog

 

[samofsweden]

Charliebrn,

Just stoppped by the dealer to pick up a block heater for the BX24. They must have GOLD internal parts!

Nice job on the install! The pics and tips are appreciated

:laughing::laughing:
My block heater do also have gold internals!

Ok, there are diffrent types of coolant out there, what do u use?

Charlebrn thanks for step by step pictures!
/Sam

 

[tjl5709]

Is the kit and install different for the BX2660?

 

[radioman]

tjl- it has the same engine in 50 and 60 series so it should be the same instructions.

 

[camco]

I want to do the install on my tractor, but I have a L355SS ( shuttle shift ) and the shuttle shift oil pump is in front of the freeze plug that you used to install the block heater.
Can anyone tell me if there is another location that I am able to install the block heater into.
Thanks

 

[Ancient Geek]

I just replaced the block heater on my BX24 and thought this might be a good place to post my project since the above information was helpful to me.

I started with a cool engine (and a heated garage!). I removed the cowling to gain access to the engine, but found that I also had to remove my quick hitch and, of course, my snow blower in order to get the cowling off. Other posts here helped me figure out how to drain the coolant. I just used the block drain and saved the coolant since I wasn't in need of a flush/change.

As noted the heater is pressed into the block, so it has to be pried/twisted out. The dealer told me to use water pump pliers, but I found it hard to get a good grab on the heater and get any leverage. I was quickly feeling like this quick project (during a three day snow storm) was becoming a bigger deal than I had bargained for and also a "must complete today" project.



While pondering how to get this thing off the block, I thought a pipe wrench might be a better tool and then immediately thought that if I added a pipe to the heater (which is threaded on the exposed end) it would make it super easy to turn. So I purchased a 3/4" coupler, 12" x 3/4" nipple and just for good measure, a 3/4" cap. I mated the pipe and coupler to the heater and turned everything clockwise to tighten the threads and start the twist-out.



As soon as the threads were all tight, the heater twisted and the pipe provided a nice handle and lateral leverage for popping the heater out. Bingo...that was easy.



I installed the new heater as described above except after initially tapping the heater in place with a 1" socket to protect the threads, I removed the socket and installed the pipe again. This time I added the cap on the end and I tapped on the capped pipe to securely seat the heater into the block. I found this was easier than hammering in the close quarters near the engine.

By initially seating the heater with the socket, I was able to make sure it was properly oriented and partially secure, so threading the pipe on did not screw up the orientation of the heater.



Many thanks to other contributors for making my project much easier.

 

[radioman]

very nice write up!

 

[wmonroe]

Nice post. What happened to your block heater that it needed replaced?

 

[Ancient Geek]

I plugged it in the other day and the cord immediately caught fire. The dealer said that the burn-out was most likely due to the heater shorting out. That made sense to me because the cord was not frayed at all and the only "fuse" is the circuit breaker which is rated for much larger wire, of course. Fortunately my extension cord is a high gauge wire, so just the pig tail fried. I used the heater for about 5 months every year since 2007, so I feel like I got my moneys worth out of that original unit.